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what is involved in switching over for a print white job (and then back to CMYKCMYK) ? is the white very opaque? do you have to trick the RIP to print white (using Wasatch)?

wrapping the roof and doors of a black vehicle with white is much easier than wrapping the bumpers and fenders black on a white vehicle. much faster too :)

Tim Turner, can you elaborate on the materials and processing?

interesting, i just read this forum post about someone printing on glow... http://www.glowforum.com/showthread.php?20-stickers&highlight=sticker curious what materials and print process they're using.

talked to a few others and they agreed my preheat was too high. i've lowered the temps yet still have an issue with pinch roller tracks on this media. i tested a different media and still see the tracks on it as well :( 2 different people said to go 32-35/32-35/50-55, while another said...

i have searched and tested a few of the suggestions on this forum on how to resolve the pinch roller marks that suddenly are appearing in my prints. some suggest to raise heat settings, others say lower heat. i have the pre about 5 degrees lower than print. cleaning the rollers makes no...

that's an awesome start! thank you :)

http://www.signs101.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=4806 off top of my head i thought it was a thorowood or bodoni, but alas isn't :( do you know this one? thanks!

yes JV5... thanks DonMeza

when we 1st got the machine it would throw an error and leave the heads uncovered. a Mimaki tech came out and corrected the issue (we had another operator then) and i didn't know if the error code and open head covers were related.

anyone know what this is indicating, "error 53 head height origin"? a reboot typically self-corrects but it has apparently been throwing errors overnight when it auto cleans. when we 1st setup the printer about a year or so ago, we would suffer heads drying in when the cap station was left...

planning to test later today. no rush, just trying to get in front of it if it's something that will work. customer requested cling, and we could always screen if necessary. thanks for all the tips :)

thanks for all the helpful replies. i have not tried to print cling on the mimaki yet. i have a project that is too large for my edge (to keep as 1 piece items) and didn't know if it was typical to run w the JV5. it does have feed-in pinch rollers that i would think i need to keep engaged...

has anyone had success printing on white static cling materials? it will be used on 1st surface like a temporary/removable POP project, so no mirror print or backing white (like a 2nd surface application).

i see this often. the air trapped in between the holes of the perf under the lam eventually weaken and fail. sometimes it's moisture, sometimes just a high UV/sun exposure that causes the laminate to fail like your photos show. most of the vehicle perf is only warrantied for a year, so we try...

Thanks for all the helpful responses [thumbs up smiley]

thanks Petesign. we rack our Mimaki prints 24 hours before laminating to ensure proper outgassing. anyone else?

my shop purchased a pre-owned Mimaki JV5 160s and Wasatch RIP station. i have tested a few different jobs but think i still need some helpful guidance from my peers at :signs101: our shop is primarily a fleet/grand format house. we have 3 HP-Scitex TurboJets and 1 HP-Scitex XLJet5 (Onyx RIP...