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we use long strips of thin styrene about 6" wide. we place those around the perimeter of the foamboad or PVC or whatever the print job is. this keeps ink off the belt and keeps the suction air from blurring the edge of the print.

You can cut some baseboard molding and glue it on the face around the edges with construction adhesive to create a nice frame.

all perf is only rated for 1 yr use. be sure it is fully outgassed before laminating or installing. use cast perf with cast lam. dont touch the edges with your fingers when installing and dont let the edges touch rubber. edge seal. we use oracal 290GF laminate in 1/2" strips. clean hands. glass...

Worst idea. If your software craps out during an update you're sunk. All in one is convenient but can be risky.

check the collars that hold the media. they have red rubber bands. if those are worn and one collar is slipping more than the other it will skew. also check to be sure your rollers are parallel and even across. you have to take off the covers and at each end there is a tensioning spring...

if there isnt anything wrong with the onyx i wouldnt spend more money.

also check your wheels and clean them. also clean the knurl if it has paper bits in there it will slip. on the rear make sure your rollers are set to full pressure - all the way down.

do you have anything near the registration marks that can confuse the ARMS. I have seen were I run out of laminate right next to the registration mark. Even though it is clear vinyl the ARMS pick up on the slight change in shade and think that is the registration mark. We also have the same...

for general reflective signs we use 3MIJ5100 with GF231 laminate. If it is for municipal street signs you need to look at the specs. Here in Miami they must be diamond grade.

why wasn't an onsite pre-inspection and site survey done before quoting? this would avoid a lot of pitfalls. see photo. client provided sizes and design BUT never realized they would end up with misaligned text.

open a new doc in AI with an art board larger than the current file. drag and drop into it your file. it shows up as a placed file. then go to EDIT>FLATTEN TRANSPARENCY. tick high resolution and tick CONVERT FONTS TO OUTLINES.

they are great for cheap jobs. for high end jobs we order the stretcher bar from a local framing shop.

Bill looks like we might have the same CET Q5-1000h. CMYK prints fine. White is a static generator. Our white scatters everywhere. I am currently looking for static suppression solutions.

unlaminated perf is a safety hazard. when it rains the holes fill up with water and you cant see out the rear. you should be using cast vinyl with cast optically clear overlam. 3M8171 + Oracal 290GF

it depends on where the sign is going and what structure you have behind it. if its a 2- 4x4 post yard job then go with alumalite for rigidity. if its going against a wall or you have a full frame then 3mm ACM is fine.

seems the bulk of his value was in his handcrafted talent which isnt included in the sale.

Nice to open up a Dugan Doughnuts next door to Dunkin Doughnuts. lol

we found that out when we had a few facemounted acrylics fall off clients walls. we moved away from VHB tape and now use 3M4000 adhesive to affix the backframe hanger on facemounted acrylics. takes longer to dry but more secure.

Roll the coro with double sided mounting film. then cut it down. Fixon 1.5 Mil White Mounting Adhesive | FELLERS

I use the z creeper for auto installs. its great for when you need to do the lower front and rear bumpers. you can open it up and lay flat. no tray for tools.