Search results

Do you ever have anything constructive to post or are you just a troll with bad artwork?

Yes, definitely take Bob's word for it over engineers at companies like 3M. One of the main things you'll notice from outgassing is adhesion issues.

Whew! Looks like several of those signs are in desperate need of replacement!

Yes. The dark areas are UV damage. Not outgassing is a different beast altogether and causes different issues. [Edit: I have heard that the evaporation of the solvents can react with the adhesives on the laminate and cause the same kind of damage. I'm not a chemist, so I can't say for sure, but...

We just got a Kala Mistral and so far it's pretty amazing. Full speed it runs about 24 feet a minute and straight as an arrow. Getting the cores to lock is a little tricky at first, but once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. There are a LOT of things I really like about it.

Neither had I! It turns out we got a bad batch of laminate from MACtac. There was virtually no UV protection and that sign was in the sun for most of the day. If I recall, that happened in about six months.

Is this what you're looking for?

Second surface prints on acrylic with a UV printer (well, some UV printers) look straight up amazing.

Are you talking about a cable saw?

But do you charge for rush orders?

Not gonna lie, I've hit plumbing before doing finish carpentry. It's never good. Hitting power would probably make your day considerably worse.

Well, you shouldn't need to find the studs on a brick wall, so that's kind of a moot point. I wouldn't trust measurements from inside on the outside. AMS already mentioned it, but there's really no reason to use the studs anyway. Just a suggestion if he absolutely had to use studs for some reason.

Exterior wall? A stud finder should work. You can also do the old "knock on the wall" method. Use your knuckle and rap on the wall until you hear a change in the sound. Mark the spot, check 16" in either direction to make sure you didn't find something that isn't a stud.

Test a scrap piece before you start painting your finished letters. I've had paints disintegrate the foam interior of Ultraboard (even though the same paint worked on actual Gatorboard). Also, be prepared to do several coats on the edges. Ultraboard sucks the paint up like crazy, even worse than...

The last company I worked for used them occasionally for oversized stuff, but there was always something wrong with every order. Footprints on banners, scuffs, wrinkles, extremely dirty banners. Nothing that was a game breaker, but you definitely had to anticipate some kind of problem...

Check with other sign shops too. There are a few around here that rent out their bays when they're not using them.

They did a demo for us here not too long ago. We have a Miller and a Leister, so we didn't really need it. It wasn't bad, but I wasn't overly impressed. It did the job, it was easy to set up and move around, and if we didn't have a Miller it might have been something to look into.

You can minimize the rippling in the vinyl no a Miller by having a second person pull the banner as it comes out of the machine. It'll never completely go away, but you can definitely make it smoother. We've managed to get them almost flat, even on 50'+ banners. If it needs to look perfect, we...

Those aren't battery powered though, are they? Gyford has some LED standoffs that I believe can be installed without an electrician.

If you already have Control and ShopVox, you might just bite the bullet and learn the software. Control isn't very intuitive, but once you get a handle on it, you can do a LOT.