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Redid the file. Picture up in post #1. Thanks.

picture Sorry, check post #1 now.

This is for printed decals for a restoration work for antique piece of equipment. The leg on the R is straight and The A has a point at the top. Corners seem to have a slight curve. This is the best picture I got from the customer. Thanks in advance.

How would I put a cloth on the pads? Would I take the head off to do so? Pull the print heads to the left. With a syringe put some cleaning solution on the cap station until it slightly bulges. Cut a piece lint free material (I have heard coffee filters will work), and lay it on the caps. Add a...

You could also soak the print head on a lint free cloth saturated with cleaning solution parked on the cap station for 10-15 minutes then do a cleaning, then print.

I agree. Do a cleaning and then print a nozzle check. If not so good....do another or make a file with small blocks of CMYK , RGB and grayscale and print that. Nozzle checks only print 360dpi. Do the test print at 720x720 bi-directional.

http://www.signsupply.com/Software/SignLab/SignLab_OE/SignLab_OE7_Features.asp

Ok....First, I am NOT advocating for anyone to buy illegal software. OEM means it is the software ONLY, no manuals or other printed material. FYI Ordway, a very good and highly respectable company, sell an OEM version of Signlab without buying hardware. It is the software ONLY, no manuals or...

I have a zip file I could email you for a Mutoh JR 38" if you would like.

How can you sell this software as OEM? It seems too good to be true - is there a catch? There is no catch - the software versions that we sell are OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) which means you will receive the installation downloadable CD images only (they do not come in their original...

I don't print from Flexi. I have printed from Fexi but prefer Ciberprint. www.ciberprint.com. This RIP is a very easy to make changes. It has very good control of the file and output.

http://777-software.com/corel-coreldraw_graphics_suite_x3.html Corel X3 $102.00 full version. Legal!

Graphtec Plugin. http://www.graphtecamerica.com/imagi.../CM2_07_15.zip

I run my heaters as high as I can without the media buckling. I would turn them down if I started to get banding. Ink running, lower the ink limits in the rip and turn up the heat. I run my heaters at 45/50 or 50/50.

Here is a link for X3 for $118.95, full version. http://www.trustprice.com/parts-cat_id-15-sc_id-994.html?gclid=CPGn8Zmz3JUCFQoHswodfHdFDw

Ditto.

Open the cover, push the print head to the right and than raise the lever at the same time. This is a very common problem that "develops" with Mutohs. Just one of those things I was told a while back.

If your tech is Rick, he will fix it and he is very good. Listen and watch, he is glad to explain things to you. When he leaves it will be like new.

I saw the video. Your printer looks like mine ( and others I know) except I have the front cover on. I think it's nice to see what is going on. I always line the media to the middle of the holes on the right.

The sponges in the cap tops would be raised. Plug in the cleaning solvent cartridges and it will automatically stat with the K and then do the color head. You have an email. dampers have wet and clean ink in them. i dont know what raised cap tops look like, so i couldnt tell you if that is...