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Arlon 8000 will POSITIVELY leave a residue! It is practically unremovable. Speaking from experience....

Empire Extended Oblique

You are right... The rubber wiper "scrapes" across it every day. The roll of Blue Shop Towels they sell in Lowes or Home Depot are good enough. And yes you can clean your head this way without detriment. There are other types of Lint Free paper towels out there like the "Swiffer Sweeper"...

Actually, put some ecosolvent cleaning fluid from your cleaning cartridge on a lint free paper cloth and lower the head down on it for 30 seconds and then withdraw it out slowly, with the head still in the down position. Rinse, and repeat with a fresh lint free paper cloth... You may need to...

Are your registration marks disappearing because they are a slightly different color and the production manager only cuts one color at a time?

My solution to that is to print on clear vinyl with ecosolvent ink and laminate to the aluminum... I've been doing it that way for years, and it protects the aluminium from oxidation.

The very best profile to start with on your machine is the Avery 1005 720x720 Graphics 2 Profile. You can do your tweaking from there with excellent results.

I too, have used the Instant One media Vinyl and have no problem with it. He promises to order grey adhesive on the next container load he orders....

Run them through the laminator....

The $130.00 he mentioned is for the WHOLE roll of 54x150 vinyl. By the way, Instant One Media's Air Release vinyl is good for the price. I've used a couple of rolls.

I can say from personal experience, never buy a JLG towable manlift. The electronic controls are absolute crap! And very expensive to repair.

Trolling for Suckers... I've never been able to find that "Sucker" that PT Barnum always talked about. Now I know why. I've always assumed my customers weren't idiots. It never occurred to me to troll for stupid people via youtube. The problem with selling sub par stuff to people is that...

Good God! That's expensive.... $22.00 per 1000 with shipping from Zooprinting.com

I agree this is a real problem, especially in X6... I've been doing what Bob suggested, but I can't figure a work around for it. Bummer.

If you mean the corners are a bit rough, the knife offset settings in the kona need to be tweaked... and make sure the you have selected knife and not pen as your default setup. Be sure to use a 45 degree knife se to the proper depth.

I've posted the Mutoh Kona Drivers on to the internet for you... Enjoy. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B0PCUE5v0vWGS003cThzb2tqVGc&usp=sharing

I know this thread is finished with the originator posting his final remedy, Thank you, that's real helpful! But for others in this situation, hem with banner tape as normal and sprinkle white talc /foot powder on the banner tape through the mesh. This fills the adhesive with a white that won't...

Also, if you want to stay with the Fluorescent tubes, you can apply a thin strip of aluminum tape on the front of the tubes to reflect excessive light to the rear of the cabinet.

"Frosted Glass" Vinyl is a great diffuser for the back side. Consider LED's on the sides of the cabinet pointing toward the center. More light bounce / refraction before exiting through the face.

RJS Signs is right! There is fuzz on the leading and trailing edges of your print head. Wet a thick / folded quality paper towel with "Flushing fluid" and lower the head onto it... Let it sit that way for 60 seconds and then slowly withdraw the towel, (with the printhead in the low position)...