Search results

save it as a pdf, open in acrobat pro, use the Image Touchup tool to take the individual pics to photoshop for color editing. When you close and save them from photoshop, the pdf will update with the edited photo.

*sniff* *sniff* I miss it.

JVS full solvent in our JV3 for 4+ years now. Love it. Paying $125/liter.

Try running the file as CMYK with the color conversion turned off in your rip. This way the profile will not remix the colors. This may open up other problems, but it is worth trying.

Welcome to the wonderful world of color management. Looks like yours could use some help. Unfortunately, there is only so much you can do given the RIP you have. Try testing different media profiles.

mismatching the profile's resolution and the print resolution will likely produce some pretty ugly results. the huge majority of profiles are made for 720 because that is the most common use and most printers can not produce something sell-able for most customers at lower resolutions.

rasterize the file prior to sending to the rip.

This is not a RIP problem, it is a color management problem. Jumping ship to another RIP just trading one set of problems for another. There is not cheap or easy solution to accurate color. There is a straight forward solution, do your own profiles. I'm pretty out of touch with ColorBurst...

We pretty much suck at seeing degrees of difference in rich, saturated, and dark colors. We are extremely good at seeing tiny differences in greys and lighter colors. It could be that you have a pretty even degree of color error across the board but only really notice in the grey. My wild ass...

I continue to be amazed at how antiquated ideas continue to get in the way of getting good output. The overall concepts are extremely simple. All digital color, especially large format, is about managing a conversion from what the color is in the file to accurate output on your specific print...

Didn't roland publish a guide?

These guys were my dealer and continue to give me great support. They know the machines very well and are excellent at support. Whatever the shortcomings of the machines are, it is really nice knowing you have a good resource behind you.

After a firmware update the menus have changed and I can no longer find either the bidirectional or head to head calibrations. Can anyone please direct me to the information on how to do these with the most current firmware?

Dead on jwright. The profile choice is going to have a greater impact on the black once you throw big enough numbers at it. If you are applying and output profile, your literal CMYK numbers are going to get converted. So anything more than 60/50/50/100 will be the same as 100/100/100/100 or RGB...

love the simplicity and durability of the dry wall screw option. More pain to mount the print once it is installed, but not too bad. Oh, wait, I'd have to destroy the print to remove it though. Rats.

Sincere thanks for the french cleat suggestion. I don't want to do stand offs as it is a Jiu-Jitsu school. So it may get some bump and grind. Projecting off the wall will only weaken it. Thanks for the solution!

I'm a digital print guy that knows almost nothing about onsite installations. I have a client who wants a 1/2" PVC, 48" circle mounted to a typical splatter painted dry wall. The goal is to minimize the damage on the wall and be able to take it down and move it since they may be changing...

I don't remember. I think it was a couple of hundred? If you put pressure from various directions, does the spindle engage at all? Do you hear the motor working and the spindle just is not spinning?

the set screw that holds the spindle on the axle may have loosened up. I had the same thing and was about to $pend big $$$$$$$$$$$ on a new motor when someone here directed me to the set screw. Problem solved. You have to take the motor apart some to find it. But it isn't that hard.

+1