Search results

Firmware is what resides in the printer's EPL board (basically the motherboard), RasterLink is the RIP software that lives on your PC. The code you're getting is F(use) 2 on the slider board being blown. Bad heads can develop short-circuits and that fuse is to protect the slider. Nothing to do...

The gully annotated parameter list itself isn't public to my knowledge, or in circulation.

Print in unidirectional mode and then unidirectional but reverse direction. If printing to the left, likely the left side one and vice versa. Setting in the Q menu in RasterLink.

Probably dampers, could be ink starvation. On test prints the ink has a chance to catch up so to speak.

The NCU is the black slot sensor between the capping station and the platen.

Might be ink on the Nozzle Check Unit LED or receiver, can just disable it to bypass the code. Most people turn it off since it takes a while to run nozzle checking and they don't like the added print time.

Just using generic HosonSoft controllers, so 'most brands'.

You can run the printer in unidirectional mode and probably be fine, will just be really slow. Just need to make sure it is configured with only 4 colors, not 8. Try before buying of course.

Wow, might be a firmware issue if I were to take a stab in the dark. Service mode: Hold Func1 and Func3 when booting, let go when you hear beep/firmware version shows on screen. Go to menu and should be an extra page for #ADJUST, #TEST, & #PARAMETER

Wrong thread, wrong printer. Sending me the exact thing in DM isn't going to get me to send you a manual or help you. If you cannot follow the most basic of instructions, you're going to need a professional to do it.

Joy, wonder if a connection got bumped. Bust of luck. Thankfully the heaters are a cobbled together doohickey instead of an internal printhead heater line.

Managed to figure out how to generate printer definition files for most RIPs, so that should help a ton. Right now I am looking into making a kit for old Oce Arizona and JFX200/JFX500 printers to convert over to modern heads/electronics. Seems both those printers are filling the market at a...

This is a thread about a JFX200 EX series printer, not a UCJV300. Since you cannot be bothered to check such a simple thing, I think giving you a service manual would just be a liability. While I am happy to welcome new forum members, people who just join, I get at least 2-3 people a week...

The way the lines are run on the 330 is pretty dang tight. Had issues where a line got kinked or a damper got pulled up causing the head to have ink starvation. The first thing I would do is to make sure dampers are clipped in properly and lines look to be straight.

Might be easier to find a local supplier, and not a rare part by any stretch. Plus, being in New Zealand and all that.

If you replace the fuse, make sure to use the same amperage. If the fuse is bridged, it will blow your MOSFET board that fires the heads, another $2K+ part. Worth trying, but sound like you might have a big project on your hand.

If it is a printer you have guaranteed work for, might be worth running. If it were a case of 'it would be cool to have this working so I could print a few things' or similar, I would hold off. Not sure how things are in New Zealand, but the cost of the parts is close to what I'd pay to get 2...

If it's a MKII, do not take the unit apart. A MK1 is more doable. That said, if you torque the frame wrong and wreck alignment, can take days to get things running right. Seen this on both variants when it went wrong, and the printer basically became a parts unit. Quick addendum: The cost of...

As one of the few techs that doesn't charge >$3K for a head swap on the UJF-6042MK1, I have worked on quite a few. Their heads are pretty durable, but better to use >10mL of ink a day than to lose a head. Aftermarket ink helps a lot in costs too, less stuff expiring 3 months after you get it as...

Typically has to be done by a technician using the Mimaki software tools.