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I'm completely serious. Do you order at a restaurant, discuss politics, talk to strangers with similar disdain? Or is this an "internet caricature" impersonating a codger of sorts. Don't get me wrong, it's entertaining either way.

This Oldpaint/signs101 thing is satirical, right? Oops, sorry. ...............RIGHT????))))))))))))))

the CETfk was part of a partnership. that printer was really bad. maybe it just didn't travel well to it's next install. whatever the case, still to this day (i haven't seen in over a year) i hear that it's still not working properly. i then bought this super old daytona rasterprinter (h700)...

i have an issue (printer worked perfectly yesterday). my printer "runs" the file/print but nothing comes out of any of the heads. blank on test print, blank on printing a file. i got two errors that may be related (i get errors here and there that you can just "try again" and you're good to...

also, without the right lens one can use PS: - filter/lens correction/custom/remove distortion.

those heads are so fragile. i've killed many trying to clean them. you best bet is to get a cupcake pan and sit the heads so that the platen is submerged. i had a error'ed dx4 that was also clogged. tried NMP on it. the NMP cleaned it up quick. don't know if it would have fired afterward...

you can always do a test. once when doing some mods to an old mimaki, i sunk chips of all the different plastic parts in different solvents. turned up that all of them but one was pretty hardy. the manifold on the "solvent resistant" epson head would turn into black chewing gum when exposed...

it's an H700 (rastek) same heads as a Oce/Fuji/Mimaki JF NMP is the "green" solvent that is in HP latex ink. it has two uses industrially - removing cured powder coat - cleaning urethane spray foam guns i've used to save Konkica 512 heads that were toast and these toshiba heads when i first...

I am embarrassed to admit that I got very caught up in designing my new business and left my printer dormant for about 3 months. I walked by it fifty times a day but never once asked "should I decommission this thing?" Yesterday I needed to crank it up and the heads were, as expected toast...

nicky, i'm practically out of the printer thing as a production hub. now in to casting. might modify my shopbot into a 84x96 light engraver, or get a laser? the h700 might be the last printer i own as long as parts are available.

it's a 35 x 40 weatherport (wind load 120 mph!) http://www.weatherport.com/fabric_model/heavy-gable-building/ got it used on ebay for $1000! they cost about $8k new. crazy heavy duty. the flooring is interlocked OSB (2 layers of 5/8" got it used from a pallette company, on top of...

for those of you that have to crate occasionally. it's a drag. and it usually looks like an industrial orwellian widget is inside. i took to figuring out a super quick, light, strong crating system over the last several shipments and i think this is maybe a beta of the final design. it...

good to know. maybe i should just stick to what i have and invest in the one i have.

the meitu contact is (i have a meitu based flatbed, daytona raster printer, that shares the same belt/vacuum, etc. as far as the mechanics of the printer, it's flawless. it has the pesky toshiba head though. would love to have one of these dx5 based machines instead. meitu makes a ricoh and...

true. the weight of the ink, requiring all kinds of measures to meter the ink is the issue. i'm sure a lot of that will go away as the new thinner LED cure inks work their way across the market. plus head carriage size and weight with smaller bulbs will make flatbeds get a lot cheaper...

assuming that your printer requires chips on the carts, one of the easiest ways is to inject cleaning solution into an old cart (a little trace ink won't hinder the process). or steal the chip and place it on a clear aftermarket cart. just depends on your set up.

you've probably jammed some dried ink into the nozzles. if normal cleaning isn't working, i'd put a cleaning cart on your black channel and print large blocks of "black" (cleaning solution) on to some waste material.

it's all the same. 720/1440 heads use one lpi and 600/1200/2400 heads use another lpi to pay OEM prices for a strip is nuts. if it's the same dimensions (height only in that length can be modified) then you are good to go.

are you wanting to flush from the tank to head or just the head. if it's just the head, put a secondary filter on a syringe unhook and cap the ink line hook the syringe to the head and lightly push the iso through the head. rehook the ink and bleed the air

i'm an expert in digital mixed media... but i'm really not sure what the question is specifically.