Search results

How about mounting the panel with tape to another panel which has the cleats? You could even use acrylic for the backer and the cleats and bond cleats with resinbond.

What you showed it what I was thinking. I just think it's cheaper and simpler than trying to mount the whole banner on something like coro, but I would make the strips about an inch. Sounds like the banners weren't specified for the application and poorly made at that

Problem is they are pointed on the bottom, I assume that's what pennant shaped means. I wouldn't be surprised they aren't even hemmed. If possible add a pole pocket on top by folding and banner tape. If there's not enough material to do that then add a few more grommets and screw or thru bolt...

Are there pole pockets on top? Since it doesn't sound like you have sewing as an option If I would try adding a 1" wide piece piece of 3mm pvc around the perimeter with vhb tape. That should flatten all the edges and and add enough weight to hang flat.

As has been said, get a sample print of the color and have it approved

I agree, PVC was the wrong material and the sign sounds like a problem waiting to happen. A new rigid frame with wall mount plates and aluminum faces would be the way to go. Proper engineering and installation are essential.

I get what you're asking and that the job you have is enjoyable because it must have a lot of variety. Nothing wrong with old school skills and methods but It's good to keep up with new materials and methods. I agree with subscribing to a few of the sign mags, Signs of the Times, SignCraft, Sign...

Did you try an F8 reset to factory defaults?

Bumpers are placed in the middle of the box attached to a structural upright. They are a little back from the face so if the face pushes in it stops it from going so far it will come out of the retainer.

Depends on the retainer system, but usually no. Don't go much over 4x8 for something like that

Those are in good shape for their age. Too bad you don't know what paint was used, it was good. I wouldn't "power" wash, just soak with a good soap/mildew/crud cleaner, scrub with a brush and then rinse. Hopefully the paint will mostly remain intact. Then paint with a good quality paint. I...

It's crazy here too, they say its' all the New Yorkers getting out of the city. They also say people are fleeing CT because of taxes...but must be more coming than going.

Very nice. Never did get to do much glass gilding and admire it greatly.

and after all this the installer will toss them in the back of his truck on top of the digging tools and assorted crud.

whatever you charge make sure your not responsible if the plotter fs up the material

Yea, you can do a combo vhb/lexel and make sure you have good coverage and the brick is clean and that will probably work...probably

My first job was for a municipal sign shop. The installers pounded uchannels everyday using a post cap and sledge hammer while standing on a platform on the truck. Hard work and they often weren't straight, but it doesn't matter much for street signs. The normal soil around here can be difficult...

Welcome! Love reverse glass work.

yes

Yes, 080 or even .125, but some of those look like they are vandalized not defective. I would also delete the chain and have one heavy s hook to the tab on the arm, and close the hook.