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I've been using FlexiSign for 20yrs for signage (cut vinyl and digital printing). We recently acquired a screen printing and embroidery business...and will be adding wearables to the sign mix. I have never had to output files with color seps for screen printing before. I have looked online and...

Yeah! Looking at them now...I KNEW I'd seen something before but couldn't remember where!

College kids = destructive. They want it screwed FLAT to the wall. They initially had acrylic panels with standoffs that lasted a week Lol And these are in a stairwell, so LOTS of passing traffic. Otherwise I like the cleat option

We are installing 6 Komatex panels (6'H x 4'W) at the local university to interior brick walls. The top 1/2 of the panel will be overlayed with Walltalkers tac-wall (cork / bulletin board). The facilities / interior designers are asking for the hardware to be "pretty"...not just some ugly blue...

That was it!! I knew it had to be something simple...forgot about that little setting! Thank you very much.

Using Versaworks 6.3.2 after recently upgrading from older style v5. I've had more files drop part of the contour cut with this new version than not!? Doesn't seem to matter if it's a simple circle, rectangle or complex shape...when previewing the rip, parts of the contour are missing and...

Updated a few weeks ago. Now every time I close / open the program...my preferences aren't saved!? Consistently changes from inches to mm. I also have a file in Que A that won't go away. Delete it, and it's back next time I load the program. The file isn't even on my computer any more!? Any ideas?

We don't seal the edges. Mainly because so far the graphics have been in areas with limited public access. And, if adhered properly...it takes some picking to get an edge loose so hasn't been a concern thus far

You use that roller to apply the film...or to push the indented mortar lines in!? We are looking for a "tool" that will fit in the actual mortar lines to push them in. A finger fits perfectly...but after HOURS of doing that you have no skin left! Lol Applying to the face of the brick only...

We are about to install our 2nd large (14'H x 50'W) block wall mural at the local university football stadium utilizing the Alumigraphics product. Last year I was AMAZED at how well this film prints / installs / looks! However...pushing the film into EVERY SINGLE mortar line was both tedious...

So it DOES remove easier than "normal" reflective? I know it's easier to install. We literally get pieces the size of a quarter when removing the other crap.

They HAVE to remove the graphics before turning them back into the state motor pool so that some knucklehead can't "imitate an officer" in their recently purchased used Ford Interceptor. We have been digitally printing the reflective, so you're right...there would be some layers to be concerned...

We do quite a few vehicles for the local police departments. They were sticker-shocked the last couple times they had to hire us to remove all the reflective films from vehicles they were taking out of service. So, they decided to save some $ and remove the graphics themselves. 2 days later...

We use the 8625 concrete film on block walls as well and have had GREAT success with that. The concrete wall we have to do next is NOT block, it is cast / smooth. We don't have an HP flatbed...so that option is not viable for us either.

We have seen an increase in the number of customers wanting large wall murals. One of our latest clients is the athletic dept of the local university. They just built a new wellness facility and have asked for multiple wall murals throughout the building. Here's my concern. We have a Roland...

The pic I attached is just ONE example of many that I just happened to have lying nearby when I posted this. Doesn't seem to matter...top, bottom etc. Sometimes there are multiple corners on a single panel cracked / broken. A LOT of our panels sizes are in the 24"H x 18"W size area. Some...

Yes, all are interior office spaces (climate controlled). We have spec'd the same acrylic from same supplier for years, so I can't imagine they are trying to pull any "switcheroo" on us. The standoff "studs" are 3/8" (0.3750). I typically spec the holes to be 15/32" (0.4688). Should I be...

? Meaning how long are they typically up before issues arise? If so...no, not really. Some are days after install...others years later. That's what has made it so tricky to troubleshoot. I could see a building "shifting" after new construction or something...yet other sites are old / existing...

We have been installing 1/8" clear acrylic panels with standoffs for 10+ years and have recently noticed an increase in the # of call-backs we are getting for corners being cracked / broken out. Doesn't seem to matter if they are installed on brick, block, sheetrock etc!? We have the holes...

Really!? Hot or cold lam make a difference!? We have ability to hot...but typically just roll cold. I've had 3 customers tell me they had a "blurry / hazy" view with the 8518 on rear windows of their pickups...