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1-shot Cleaning Brushes

With all due respect to "OLD PAINT" I'm not here to cause any flak with you . My use of transmission fluid has been going on for at least 5+ years. I have had no adverse conditions with my skin or any of my brushes. The bristles do not fall out and have had real good luck doing it that way. Thank you for your concern.......
 

OldPaint

New Member
SORRY, but 15 years in the automotive sector, and knowing many transmission repair people............will tell you a different story. and the medical evidence is undeniable. just talk to some old tranny repair guys.
it contains:
DETERGENTS
ANTI FOAMING AGENT
HIGH HEAT ADDITIVES(similar to synthetic oils)
CAUSTIC CHEMICALS to dissolve small particals of dirt.
but then again, there are people who still spray automotive paint....WITHOUT A RESPIRATOR
so rock on dude.............
 

OldPaint

New Member
On most GRAY OR BROWN squirrel hair QUILLS..............the hairs are held together in the plastic part that also hold the wooden handle to make it a brush. the hairs are placed in this a certain way, and the person who does the WIRE TIE to keep the hair in the plastic ferrel..........where that wire is twisted.....is the FLAT AND CHISELED end of the hairs. it is parallel with the way the hairs was laid. so resetting this..........after cleaning.....is important.....
 

signmeup

New Member
Thanks for trying OP. I'm afraid I don't even know what a quill is. I wish there was someone around here(where I live) that could show me some things about hand lettering and especially brush care. I use small brushes for applying gold size and also for painting the letters I have carved. The brushes always end up ruined after a while. I'm pretty sure the latex paint doesn't help. It would be great if I could be taught how to care for them.
 

Techman

New Member
quill.
Feather quill
Quill brush, The hairs are inserted into a feather quill and then tightened down to hold them by wrapping a thin copper wire and the base.
The assembly is slid onto a wood stick to make it a brush. Quills are pushed into a potato in order to soften the feather quill so it will not split when pushing it onto a chopstick.
 

RebeckaR

New Member
Reading this thread gives me a hankerin' to break out the ol' brushes.
Looks like the price hasn't changed all that much from when I bought mine 20 some odd years ago.
If you're not sure what a quill looks like, here's a link to the Dick Blick online catalog. It appears they still carry a pretty good selection.
http://www.dickblick.com/brushshapes/quill/
 

Jillbeans

New Member
Adrian I rarely use quills anymore, I am hooked on these.
Also the Alan Johnson signature brushes and Swirly-Qs.
On the Mack site there are instructions for cleaning pinstriping brushes:
http://www.mackbrush.com/brushcare2.htm
I do love a well-broken-in red handled #3 Mack.
And whoever said to keep separate brushes for light or dark paint was really smart too, I have done that for years. I never did the laying clean brushes flat in baby oil thing until my old walldog friend showed me that trick. He had a flood a few years ago, and the only tool which survived was his tackle box of lettering brushes which he found floating at the top of his cellar stairs.
He lost 40 years worth of fitches.
:(
 

Deaton Design

New Member
Long time ago, I used lard oil all the time to oil my brushes. Only problem with it was in cold weather, it solidified somewhat. Left my brush tray open one night, cat got in, ate my brushes. Lard oil musta tasted good to that varmint. Ate almost a whole set of quills.
I now use motor oil as OP said. After doing the cleaning, I also put the brush between my hands and spin it back and forward to get all the cleaner or thinner out, then oil, shape and store. Its still fun to pull a brush every now and then...
 

OldPaint

New Member
and i talked to an older sign guy when i 1st came to florida, i mentioned LARD on brushes, he said, boy you seen them PALMETTO BUGS here in florida???? they just luv that stuff............he asked if i knew how he lernt that..........
i didnt have to hear it.
 

signmeup

New Member
I'm guessing this oiling of brushes is only for oil based paints? What can I do to get more milage out of brushes for water based paint? I really never use oil based paint on my signs.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
I'm guessing this oiling of brushes is only for oil based paints? What can I do to get more milage out of brushes for water based paint? I really never use oil based paint on my signs.


Wash them out good with water only and keep dabbing them until no color comes out any longer and then reshape them for your next use.

Don't use any soap or other additives. They will only fluff up your brush hair and you won't be able to control them.
 
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Jillbeans

New Member
Just out of curiousity, and assuming the brushes you use are real hair, could you use a regular conditioner (like for people hair) on them?
Something you could rinse out with water before using the brush.
I had some specialty synthetic brushes for use with latex paint when I was pregnant with my last baby. I hated using it, and I hated those brushes too.
They don't even make the brand of paint anymore, which is a good thing.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
One of the things you don't want to do is make your brushes fluffy and lifeless like the hair on your head.

Keep only paint in your brushes and clean them with proper cleaners and form them back into shape with your fingers when finished. If they are oil brushes use the proper method and for water use only water.... if these are natural hair and not synthetic or pig bristles.

The synthetic brushes are only good for rough latex work in most cases. I've found over the years that a synthetic brush will never roll or work as well as a natural hair whether in latex, acrylic, tempera or oil paints. I only use them as throw-aways. I wouldn't waste time trying to save them.
 

Theark

New Member
Sonic cleaners rock at really cleaning out yer brushes...and don't cost much at all.
Old Paint's advice is right on the money too, but couldn't you just tell the OP to spin dry the brush after the last cleaning, then oil it and put it to bed? Whn working with newbies...ya gotta keep them directions simple!
I bought a brand of brush cleaner at Walmart “ klean strip. It did not clean my brushes and did nothing. I believe several are ruined now - even after the oil treatment they have a few hard hairs after sitting. I will not sway away from good old turpentine now.
 

Scootershooter

New Member
I'm working on my first hand lettered sign with 1-shot.
What is the best way to clean and store brushes? Just swish around in 1-shot brush cleaner, then rinse with water? I've read about storing in oil or wrapping in newspaper. I got a few expensive brushes and don't want to ruin them. Thanks in advance.
What GVP said... but I use neetsfoot or paraffin oil.
 
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