Question Are there any inksets or settings for the UCJV300 gloss that makes it more comparable to Roland gloss prints?

[RonnyCrack]

The attached image is from a Roland Printer, I'm wondering if there's any way to get a comparable level of "wetness" in the gloss? Or am I doomed to the weird, textured gloss forever..

I've gotten sort of close with STS inks and my UV lamps set to -40% but that's only in comparison to my own, worse prints. When I look back at an image of a Roland gloss print I'm defeated as it makes the difference my trial and error has made look marginal at best..

Do I just need to add a Roland to the mix? I've heard too many bad things to switch solely based on the gloss looking better but it's tough losing a gloss client and knowing they probably won't come back.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Are you doing 600x1200DPI and setting lamp mode to gloss? Can also stack gloss layers if you want to go fancy, but probably need to execute a pull-back. Things like environment can play a slight role as well, ambient temp, humidity, airflow, etc, but that's true with any printer. Some materials also do better with thicker base (white or color) layers underneath them. Also, try using a matte profile, even if the media is gloss. Tons of variables to tweak to get that sweet-spot. As for adjusting lamps, never bothered, but could make a huge difference.

Inks are a mix of expired Mimaki I can find cheap, or fresh STS when I feel fancy. LUS-170 series

 

[RonnyCrack]

Are you doing 600x1200DPI and setting lamp mode to gloss? Can also stack gloss layers if you want to go fancy, but probably need to execute a pull-back. Things like environment can play a slight role as well, ambient temp, humidity, airflow, etc, but that's true with any printer. Some materials also do better with thicker base (white or color) layers underneath them. Also, try using a matte profile, even if the media is gloss. Tons of variables to tweak to get that sweet-spot. As for adjusting lamps, never bothered, but could make a huge difference.

Inks are a mix of expired Mimaki I can find cheap, or fresh STS when I feel fancy. LUS-170 series

600x1200, 1200x1200, set to gloss, overprints, tried with and without pullbacks. It's just like, a texture on the gloss. You can see in the above image attached of the Roland print the reflection is so clean, with hard edges. You can notice on the Mimaki gloss print below, the reflection is more feathered by the texture of the gloss. I can upload a better picture later but you can sort of see the texture on the mitten.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

I just see one image, so not sure what is what.

 

[RonnyCrack]

I just see one image, so not sure what is what.

Sorry, just edited my post. Let me get a better image on a thicker print as well

 

[RonnyCrack]

I just see one image, so not sure what is what.

Mimaki prints - see how the gloss is more feathered/textured compared to the original post image

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Check your media compensation/head gap, feathering can be indicative of ink dusting as well as ghosting.

Dumb diagram for illustration purposes.

 

[Goatshaver]

I only have one print from a Roland with gloss and I've done the same print here and it looks fine. Actually I found my print to be sharper feeling than the Roland, where the Roland felt like it was almost rounded. I'm not sure if it's how their software handles the lay down of the gloss so I can't speak to much about the Roland. I know I've gotten better prints by reducing my gloss layer to 40-45% and stacking multiple layers if I want to have an embossed print. Also If I want to do a more raised print I will increase my pass count to 24 passes with the gloss rather than using another layer or two at 16 pass. (On the 330 I can only run gloss at 1200x1200 16 pass and 1200x12800 24 pass).

 

[RonnyCrack]

I only have one print from a Roland with gloss and I've done the same print here and it looks fine. Actually I found my print to be sharper feeling than the Roland, where the Roland felt like it was almost rounded. I'm not sure if it's how their software handles the lay down of the gloss so I can't speak to much about the Roland. I know I've gotten better prints by reducing my gloss layer to 40-45% and stacking multiple layers if I want to have an embossed print. Also If I want to do a more raised print I will increase my pass count to 24 passes with the gloss rather than using another layer or two at 16 pass. (On the 330 I can only run gloss at 1200x1200 16 pass and 1200x12800 24 pass).

They do look great, and I guess it's ultimately just coming down to personal preference.

I'm just referring to this texture. It could also be MAPS, I think I still have mine set to like 60% so maybe I'll set it to 0% and see if it smooths out any further.

 

[RonnyCrack]

Check your media compensation/head gap, feathering can be indicative of ink dusting as well as ghosting.

Dumb diagram for illustration purposes.
View attachment 173976

Maybe I'll try messing with head height. Might be MAPS as well. I'm probably also using the wrong phrasing. I'm moreso talking about the reflection on the gloss being feathered/textured rather than the gloss itself being feathered/oversprayed/overlapped

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Gloss fuzzing is easier to spot than color fuzz in some cases. So worth checking out. I have about 20 compensation settings for all the materials I use. Most stuff can be passable with adjustment, but once gloss goes down, getting that accuracy can really pay off.

 

[RonnyCrack]

Gloss fuzzing is easier to spot than color fuzz in some cases. So worth checking out. I have about 20 compensation settings for all the materials I use. Most stuff can be passable with adjustment, but once gloss goes down, getting that accuracy can really pay off.

So turning off MAPS all the way, the first inch of my prints are super comparable to the Roland's wet glossy look:

After the first inch or so though, it devolves into the more textured look:

The gloss layer also seems thinner at the end of the print, looking more like a clear coat than a thick varnish. You can tell by how tight the reflection from my flash is in the first pic vs the second pic. It gets diffused by the texture. For reference this is 1200x1200, 32 pass with 2 overprints

I think this is either caused by only half the lamps being turned on for the first inch or two of the gloss print, or something to do with the head not stopping back at the station soon enough to fill the reservoirs with ink? No idea, but it does seem like there's a clear (pun intended) difference in coverage from the front to the back of the print...

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

What's your media compensation test look like and what head gap are you using?

 

[RonnyCrack]

What's your media compensation test look like and what head gap are you using?

I think I'm at the highest head gap because I was getting a lot of headstrikes with it on medium or low. Absolutely perfect feed comp test :/

I will try lowering the head for sure but it just doesn't strike me as the reason because it starts out perfect and worsens after that first portion.

Could a semi-clogged line/old dampers play into this at all?

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

If things are clogged, will show up in nozzle check, worth checking of course. Since the printer uses subtanks, they are less prone to clogging/wearing out, but they can have other issues. Line issues mean you'd be getting errors on the printer as the subtanks have float level sensors in them.

 

[RonnyCrack]

If things are clogged, will show up in nozzle check, worth checking of course. Since the printer uses subtanks, they are less prone to clogging/wearing out, but they can have other issues. Line issues mean you'd be getting errors on the printer as the subtanks have float level sensors in them.

Do you think it's possible the subtank isn't getting enough ink?

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Will get an ink supply code that will stop printing if that is the case.

 

[RonnyCrack]

Will get an ink supply code that will stop printing if that is the case.

Hmm.. dang, I'm at a loss

 

[Goatshaver]

As printers I think most are very picky on things the average customer won't pick up on or care about most times. I'm also wondering the hardness of Roland clear ink. I don't know what the LUS numbers mean for mimaki but I know I can choose from LUS 170, 175 or 200 for my 330 machine, and the clear I use is 170 which is supposed to be pretty flexible. I think the curing properties may also come into play with the "smoothness" of how the final cured clear looks.

I'll have to mess around with the MAPS settings to see if my 330 shows any differences.

 

[RonnyCrack]

As printers I think most are very picky on things the average customer won't pick up on or care about most times. I'm also wondering the hardness of Roland clear ink. I don't know what the LUS numbers mean for mimaki but I know I can choose from LUS 170, 175 or 200 for my 330 machine, and the clear I use is 170 which is supposed to be pretty flexible. I think the curing properties may also come into play with the "smoothness" of how the final cured clear looks.

I'll have to mess around with the MAPS settings to see if my 330 shows any differences.

It sucks knowing the printer is technically capable of the smoother gloss but I have no idea how to achieve it across the whole print. Gonna call some techs this week and see if anybody has run into something similar/been able to solve it. Starting to feel more like an ink density issue but I don't know if it's a "feature" rather than an issue.