B Board cutting.

[Jackflush]

Hello ,
Im cutting an oval in this 1/8" B Board or B Bond. I put a 60x40 graphic on and I left the masking on. Im thinkin I will jig saw round that there. The masking Im thinkin will stay on while I saw the oval too. Sound like the thing to do? This sign Has been done twice now. Im worn out today. Going to saw in the AM. Going to saw real slow and real careful.
Thanks and Best regards to the 101

 

[equippaint]

Id cut the material 1st, have a bleed on the graphic, mount it (no transfer tape) and then trim off the bleed with a razor. You can sand it before you mount too.
Never tried it the other way but I couldnt imagine a jigsaw not tearing up the graphic and getting shavings under the edge of it. Also risking tearing the mask and scratching it.

 

[Gino]

So, why is this your third go at it ?? What's been going wrong ??

 

[JR's]

I love the sign

 

[Reveal1]

Hello ,
Im cutting an oval in this 1/8" B Board or B Bond. I put a 60x40 graphic on and I left the masking on. Im thinkin I will jig saw round that there. The masking Im thinkin will stay on while I saw the oval too. Sound like the thing to do? This sign Has been done twice now. Im worn out today. Going to saw in the AM. Going to saw real slow and real careful.
Thanks and Best regards to the 101

Occasionally we will contour cut a scrap end of removable material (we use a lot of wall paper and transit material here and always seem to have 3-5 ft scraps at end of roll), mount on the panel and use that that as a cutting template. Strip it off and apply graphic per eqquipaint's suggestion.

 

[jimbug72]

I do it this way from time to time. I apply the vinyl at least 24-48 hours prior to cutting to give the adhesive a little "bonding" time.

Leave the mask on so the saw plate won't scuff the print. As you said, slow and careful. Make sure you have a nice new sharp blade in the saw. A fine tooth metal blade seems to be less likely to "gnaw" up the print along the cut edge for me.

Carefully sand your cuts smooth if needed in downward strokes from the print so not to lift any edges.

Best method of course is to follow Equippaint's and Reveal1's advice and cut/prep first then mount the print, but if you'd already applied the print you can still get a good result if careful.

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

Occasionally we will contour cut a scrap end of removable material (we use a lot of wall paper and transit material here and always seem to have 3-5 ft scraps at end of roll), mount on the panel and use that that as a cutting template. Strip it off and apply graphic per eqquipaint's suggestion.

We do the same thing. It's a good way to use up 631 vinyl that's left over from previous jobs. Once cut, I palm sand the edges right up to the template, peel off the template, rout-a-burr the edges, and mount and trim the print.

 

[Gino]

Often, times, we'll disc sand the edges with either our tabletop disc sander or clamp the substrate and use a belt sander on larger items. Gets a 100% accurate edge. Edges don't lift up, either.

 

[Gino]

Something to add. I don't know about you guys and gals, but it's not the easiest thing in the world, to put an oval print down on a pre-cut oval substrate. Even using guides, it's not easy, unless we're talking like a 15" oval, but the OP's is like 3-1/2' x 5'.

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

Something to add. I don't know about you guys and gals, but it's not the easiest thing in the world, to put an oval print down on a pre-cut oval substrate. Even using guides, it's not easy, unless we're talking like a 15" oval, but the OP's is like 3-1/2' x 5'.

This is one of the various situations where an application table can come in very handy.

 

[equippaint]

Something to add. I don't know about you guys and gals, but it's not the easiest thing in the world, to put an oval print down on a pre-cut oval substrate. Even using guides, it's not easy, unless we're talking like a 15" oval, but the OP's is like 3-1/2' x 5'.

Do it upside down and it's easy.
Leave an 1/8" bleed and trim right up to it. Tape hinge across print, lay print side down on the table, then put the oval on top and you can easily see it being centered by the 1/8" overage. Roll the tape around and flip it back over and finish from there.

 

[Gino]

You can do that with a piece 40" x 60" and drop it on perfectly ?? Maybe with help, but most of these members are all flying solo and the few times I've done it, I was by myself on occasion. Easier said than done. Sounds risky to me. Then again, this guy is on his third try, so what's to lose. That's a buncha ruined ACM.

 

[equippaint]

You can do that with a piece 40" x 60" and drop it on perfectly ?? Maybe with help, but most of these members are all flying solo and the few times I've done it, I was by myself on occasion. Easier said than done. Sounds risky to me. Then again, this guy is on his third try, so what's to lose. That's a buncha ruined ACM.

You leave the backing on the print, just lining it up in reverse but apply it right side up with a hinge or can run through the laminator. If you're slick you can line it up, slide an edge off the table, stick a little part of the graphic and then roll it over to finish the mount.

 

[Gino]

Ohhhhhhhhhhh..... You're leaving the liner on. Well, that kinda makes sense. Gonna hafta try that sometime. The other thing is, we don't get that many large ovals with prints on them that we use with vinyl. Ovals are generally sandblasted or carved and when its printed, we throw it on the flatbed these days.

See, everyone learns something new, sooner or later. ​

 

[equippaint]

Ohhhhhhhhhhh..... You're leaving the liner on. Well, that kinda makes sense. Gonna hafta try that sometime. The other thing is, we don't get that many large ovals with prints on them that we use with vinyl. Ovals are generally sandblasted or carved and when its printed, we throw it on the flatbed these days.

See, everyone learns something new, sooner or later. ​

I'll send you the bill

 

[Gino]

Nah, don't bother, I'll send you a cookie, instead.

 

[Jackflush]

You can do that with a piece 40" x 60" and drop it on perfectly ?? Maybe with help, but most of these members are all flying solo and the few times I've done it, I was by myself on occasion. Easier said than done. Sounds risky to me. Then again, this guy is on his third try, so what's to lose. That's a buncha ruined ACM.

Second try... The first try is on the reverse side with a whole lotta bubbles. My taping session went south and I chose a middle hinge method. It was a sloppy. The whole session was sloppy rusty hacky work. I have been comm fishing for 3 years and this is my first job since i decided to do this again. Anyways So I had an extra decal that did not contour cut. I masked it with blue tape and carefully cut the border out. Ive put this decal on satisfactory and this jigsaw cut will be for the win. THANK YOU ALL for the tips and tricks!
Best regards to the 101

 

[fixtureman]

I would use a down cut saw blade like they use for plastic lam counter tops

 

[lyndawayne]

We put the print on the oval after we cut it. Size was 48” x 9’6”. We had guide lines on the print & the oval. All went well. I would post a pic but am having trouble figuring it out. Stupid me. We just did this on 1/8” pvc.

 

[Jackflush]

Giving myself a C on the cut. It wavers some here and there. Need more practice and maybe could relax more. After I removed the tape i do have more water bubble than I would like. But over all I think its worth the money. Its an indoor sign but maybe I will seal the edge. Anyhow... Learned alot and some of the suggestions I could research for sure. Setup tables and cutting oval before install. My brain smoked thinking how to drop this big sticker perfect on an oval at my yard/shop. Hmmm setup table? Tell me more