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Canon Colorado M Series.

bpp

New Member
What material are you having the issue with? I only had one scuff error and it was due to a little edge tunnel on the media I didn't notice when loading
I'm using 20# blueprint paper which never had an issue on my Mimaki. What drives me nuts is till it starts printing and even canceling a job can be 20 minutes..
 

ikarasu

Active Member
These machines arent really designed for paper... Not saying it wont work, but blueprints are generally printed on a "Plotter" / Aqueous printer - Much faster, Theyre way cheaper... and more accurate. My resin has been pretty bang on accurate, but I dont know if it would be for stuff like blueprints. Even on our Latex we never had great success with paper, we could make it work... but like you there would always eventually be tunneling, especially on the non latex specific paper.

EPSON C12C937271 SC-R5070/LMEDIA SPACER - Look into one of these... I believe it was $200ish? It's supposed to be for heat sensitive medias, I havent used mine yet so I dont know if / how well it works... but I've heard a few people who use cheaper medias use it, and it helps a lot
 

victor bogdanov

Active Member
EPSON C12C937271 SC-R5070/LMEDIA SPACER - Look into one of these... I believe it was $200ish? It's supposed to be for heat sensitive medias, I havent used mine yet so I dont know if / how well it works... but I've heard a few people who use cheaper medias use it, and it helps a lot
I leave mine in and use it on all media, not sure what kind of difference it makes since I haven't printed without it
 

CC-CMYK

New Member
I'm hating my Epson R5070. It's so sensitive and any time it thinks the printhead scuffed with media it resets and that takes so much time. Just starting the printer or loading the paper everything is forever. I'm pulling my hairs out. Coming from the Mimaki I'm going crazy, quality is nice but dealing with restarting and loading is driving me nuts. Anyone else have this issue? Am I doing something wrong?
Haven’t had this issue at all. My only issue with Epson is the tech they sent when we had an issue. The guy took two weeks to fix the machine
 

Degrafik

New Member
We got to be the first in the worlds to see the new Coloado M series in action (apart from the guys at canon). Really neat show they put on.

Looks like it's the replacement of the 1630 1640 & 1650.

Called the:
M3 (1630)
M3W
M5 (1650)
M5W

4 heads. 5 heads with white.
The new single heads are as fast as the dual heads on the 1650.

It's basically 1 machine. M stands for modular. you by the config you want. E.g you can get the entry M3 then upgrade it to the M5W when ever you need.

The white is the best ive seen. Better than HP 800w and any other wide format with white.
i forget the speed, something like 30sqm hour with white ink. 24sqm/h with CMYKW.


Hello, I don't know if you can help me with some questions. 1) What is the Durability of the Print without Laminating to the Exterior?
 

Degrafik

New Member
We got to be the first in the worlds to see the new Coloado M series in action (apart from the guys at canon). Really neat show they put on.

Looks like it's the replacement of the 1630 1640 & 1650.

Called the:
M3 (1630)
M3W
M5 (1650)
M5W

4 heads. 5 heads with white.
The new single heads are as fast as the dual heads on the 1650.

It's basically 1 machine. M stands for modular. you by the config you want. E.g you can get the entry M3 then upgrade it to the M5W when ever you need.

The white is the best ive seen. Better than HP 800w and any other wide format with white.
i forget the speed, something like 30sqm hour with white ink. 24sqm/h with CMYKW.

Hello, I don't know if you can help me with some questions. 1) What is the Durability of the Print without Laminating to the Exterior?
 

victor bogdanov

Active Member
Hello, I don't know if you can help me with some questions. 1) What is the Durability of the Print without Laminating to the Exterior?
Very durable, I printed a 60" x 50ft banner full ink coverage 3 years ago, attached to corrugated metal building and it still looks same as day one in Texas sun/weather.
 

Degrafik

New Member
Muy duradero, imprimí una pancarta de 60" x 50 pies con cobertura total de tinta hace 3 años, adherida a un edificio de metal corrugado y todavía luce igual que el primer día bajo el sol y el clima de Texas.
Gracias por la información, con el tema de rotulación de vehículos, ¿es necesaria la laminación?
 

Degrafik

New Member
Creo que los vinilos para vehículos deben estar laminados si quieres un vinilo de calidad. Si es algo temporal, estaría bien sin laminado.
Sí, estoy de acuerdo con Laminación en vehículos.
En general, ¿qué tan estable es la Canon y los costos de cabezales, repuestos, mantenimiento no son muy altos?
 

victor bogdanov

Active Member
Sí, estoy de acuerdo con Laminación en vehículos.
En general, ¿qué tan estable es la Canon y los costos de cabezales, repuestos, mantenimiento no son muy altos?
Parts, heads, etc cost on the Colorado is Very high. I would not buy this without a service contract. What country are you in, might be different in your country
 

Degrafik

New Member
El costo de las piezas, cabezales, etc. de la Colorado es muy alto. No la compraría sin un contrato de servicio. ¿En qué país estás? Puede que sea diferente en tu país.
Estamos en Guatemala CA. Hay un distribuidor local que nos esta ofreciendo el equipo, ya tenemos una de ese distribuidor, Mimaki UJV-100-160 y la verdad no hemos tenido ningún problema con ella desde hace 2 Años, pero estamos buscando algo más rápido, y entiendo que los Los costos en tinta son un poco más bajos que la Mimaki UV.
 

Degrafik

New Member
Can you help me with Confirming if the cost of UV Gel Ink is More Economical than Normal UV and if you didn't like the Canon Colorado
 

MarkSnelling

Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
Can you help me with Confirming if the cost of UV Gel Ink is More Economical than Normal UV and if you didn't like the Canon Colorado
UV ink costs are all over the board. On a conservative basis, I'd say you should expect to pay around $.08/ft2 for your ink usage. If you get into profiling, you can cut that cost by nearly 40%. The inks are good for about 3 years outdoors without lamination. The inks are incredibly scratch and chemical resistant. If you have a local distributor, make sure they are service trained and see if you can get some referrals. If they are good at troubleshooting then you should be able to rely on them for service needs beyond the 2 year warranty.
 

stax

New Member
Hello from UK,
Long story - short. We have a Colorado M3W which purchased last year with our main purpose being to print windows graphics in white ink mainly on gloss PET films. After vigorous testing of the white inks for robustness and adhesion on almost every film we use (PET, PVC, etc.), all were fine until few months ago when our fitters started noticing that the ink when applied started scratching with a hard squeegee and left a "milky" like residue after spraying a soaped water for application. To explain - if you print a light fade in white ink, the light-covered area (from 0 to 40-50% ink amounts) is very easy to scratch. Since I adjusted all profiles in Caldera to the maximum possible 36 deg. temperatures and raised the cure UV lights to maximum level 5 with no effect at all, the problem persists. We're experiencing issues with adhesion on glossy PET films.
Has anyone else encountered similar problems with white inks on their Colorado M3W?
 

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10sacer

New Member
Hello from UK,
Long story - short. We have a Colorado M3W which purchased last year with our main purpose being to print windows graphics in white ink mainly on gloss PET films. After vigorous testing of the white inks for robustness and adhesion on almost every film we use (PET, PVC, etc.), all were fine until few months ago when our fitters started noticing that the ink when applied started scratching with a hard squeegee and left a "milky" like residue after spraying a soaped water for application. To explain - if you print a light fade in white ink, the light-covered area (from 0 to 40-50% ink amounts) is very easy to scratch. Since I adjusted all profiles in Caldera to the maximum possible 36 deg. temperatures and raised the cure UV lights to maximum level 5 with no effect at all, the problem persists. We're experiencing issues with adhesion on glossy PET films.
Has anyone else encountered similar problems with white inks on their Colorado M3W?
Use a softer squeegee with a wet edge and don't use too much soap. It shouldn't take a ton of pressure to get the application fluid moving to the edge of the film
 

MarkSnelling

Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
Hello from UK,
Long story - short. We have a Colorado M3W which purchased last year with our main purpose being to print windows graphics in white ink mainly on gloss PET films. After vigorous testing of the white inks for robustness and adhesion on almost every film we use (PET, PVC, etc.), all were fine until few months ago when our fitters started noticing that the ink when applied started scratching with a hard squeegee and left a "milky" like residue after spraying a soaped water for application. To explain - if you print a light fade in white ink, the light-covered area (from 0 to 40-50% ink amounts) is very easy to scratch. Since I adjusted all profiles in Caldera to the maximum possible 36 deg. temperatures and raised the cure UV lights to maximum level 5 with no effect at all, the problem persists. We're experiencing issues with adhesion on glossy PET films.
Has anyone else encountered similar problems with white inks on their Colorado M3W?
sometimes less is more...by maximizing the temperatures and cure strength, you could be altering the finished cured product on the PET. What media are you using? Be specific and I'll see what I can find out. You are welcome to take this offline and email me directly.
 
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