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CarveWright?

TwoNine

New Member
I dunno, Gary. I don't know you very well (obviously) - but what I do think I know about you is that you do real high quality work, really enjoy the trade, and is always looking to expand you knowledge of the industry. So, that being said, I would think that you would more than likely get frustrated with a machine like this. I say that because I know I would. These were meant, as their website shows, for Grandpa and Grandson/daughter to do little projects with. Not for high end custom anything. I think that it would probably do you more of a disservice than any benefit you may get from it.

That is just my opinion. And I have been wrong before. I'd say spend the dough on some nice Pfiel chisels...Or keep saving for your real machine. (The same one you're gonna end up with anyway - rather if you buy this 'CNC Cricut' or not)
 

grampa dan

New Member
When I was looking at a CNC machine the first time I spent months looking at every possible option. I did a business plan too. I knew my investment would be substantial. I looked through my back issues of sign magazines and found work that was similar to what I wanted to do. Then I racked up a BIG phone bill talking to router owners all across North America. I asked about routers, software, and everything concerning routers. I got frank answers that I needed to hear. I was told by all to buy the most machine I could possibly afford.

I wanted a 4x8 machine. Anything less and I knew I would be immediately frustrated. I considered larger sizes but most material I had ever handled came in that size. After six years that was a decision I don't regret.

I wanted to buy quality. TOP quality. Making this kind of investment and getting less than the best didn't make much sense to me. The reality is that the price difference between the starter routers and the high end ones isn't as great as one might think - if you consider everything and if you compare apples with apples.

Power requirements are substantial. I had to get an electrical involved. I spent a couple thousand dollars.

Because I wanted a tool changer I needed a beefy compressor. Initially I went with a just barely enough compressor. When I replaced it for the second time I did it right. I spent $2K for each of those small ones. My new screw compressor cost me $8,000 and does the job right with no worries and far less noise.

The first two times I bought and installed a dust collection system I spent as little as I could. I should have done that right the first time too. My proper system which I eventually bought cost me $6K.

Good software that will give you no limits is expensive. I bought EnRoute with no regrets - chalk up another $6K. There are less expensive packages out there, but they may not have the capabilities you need. Do your homework - don't just rely on what a buddy says.

Then there is the learning curve. I count my time - even though I enjoy it immensely. To get through the learning curve I created samples for my shop walls. MANY SAMPLES. These were a great INVESTMENT as they helped me learn AND they work as great sales tool. BUT this time was factored into the router cost. I would conservatively estimate this time to be worth $20K for anybody wanting to learn routers and software. If you aren't prepared to spend this time then stick with a jigsaw. In he last six years I have probably realistically spent five times that amount on samples. But that investment has come back many, many times over.

If you buy a used machine or shopbot (or similar router be prepared to spend a bunch of time setting it up. I elected to buy a high end machine and had a tech do that work. I KNOW I spent good money having it done but taking time away from my work to do it myself would have cost FAR MORE. Conservatively this time was worth $5K

So when I added up the numbers on similarly equipped machines my math went like this.

Low end router (Equipped with tool changer and vacuum hold down) 35-40,000
High end router with accessories.................................................. 65-80,000

Dust collection system................................................................ $6,000
Electrical.................................................................................. $2,000
Compressor.............................................................................. $8,000
Dust collection system................................................................ $6,000
Learning, samples...................................................................... $20,000
Setup time (A manufacturer tech or you)........................................ $5,000

So if you truly add up the cost of a machine (and you are fooling yourself if you don't) you can see the soft costs can equal the machine costs. Saving a few thousand dollars by buying a lesser machine is foolish business in my view. You pay or you PAY. But there is a cost for sure.

Besides my costs of the CNC machine I looked at the other side of the equation as well. A top end CNC machine could do the same quality work (or better) more than five times as fast as I could do it by hand. My new machine is half again as fast. Looking at the work I was presently doing by hand I figured I could pay for my machine in two years. We decided to purchase a top end machine (lease to own) and finance it over four. The reality is we paid for our machine in six months. I ran it six years before trading it in on a four axis machine that gave us more capabilities. The old machine was still in great shape with virtually no problems in six years other than minor maintenance.

My experience tells me to do ALL the math. Be realistic - both in costs and in projected revenue. Include YOUR time in your costing of the router.

My advice is to buy the most router and software you can realistically justify. Buy less and you will quickly be reinvesting what you should have spent the first time around. Ask me how I know...

-grampa dan
 

Circleville Signs

New Member
Dan,

I gotta thank you for taking the time to share in this thread - it is super helpful! I would love to go out and grab your type of set-up. I'm faced with a few fiscal limitations that prohibit that unfortunately.

1. I have no jobs like this in the pipeline, and will be working from scratch to create that market here.

2. I do not have the cash on hand, nor the credit-worthiness to pull off that type of lease (my wife and I got hit HARD in the real estate bubble burst).

After reading everything that has been said here, I think my current course of action will be two-fold...

1. Buy a nice set of chisels and get to work!

2. Keep saving cash until I can get a "real" router.

I have the space for it, so it's just a question of finding the right thing. I can' imagine that it would be a wise investment to go spend $100k+ on a piece of equipment to speed up a workflow that i don't even have at this point.

Thanks again to everyone who has chimed in. I still may eventually pick up a CarveWright, but if I do it will be for my personal "hobby" use. I have some ideas for 3D paintings :smile:
 
I've seen firsthand more than one ... At least 10 in the last 5 years .. Startup used cnc router packages ..older computer workstation ,older software , at least a 4' x 4' table but also 54" X 54" & a few 4' x 8' tables, all with a variety of cutting tools,some substrates,& whatever other associated 'stuff' the person moving on from their dreams of getting rich with a cnc router sell from anywhere from $3800 to $7500.. I've seen MANY in the $5-6,000 price range.

there are deals to be had you just need to know what you want & need & consistently look. There are MANY cnc setups sitting idle in shops & garages in working order that people simply do not use. I have seen more cnc routers in sign shops used as weeding tables,assembly/project tables than I care to remember. There is also many machines out there that were decommissioned as people moved up to bigger better equipment.

bells & whistles are nice..they are not necessary. My 1st router (a Camtech Routermaster) made me great returns,allowed me to turn out great volumes of quality work & we ran it the entire life of the machine without a vacuum table...vacuum tables are great but it is very possible to work without them.

tool changers imo are a luxury..unless you are regularly doing projects that require multiple tool changes consistently (which does not describe the vast majority of work done by MOST sign co.'s) when I sold routers / serviced them / & trained new operators over the years I sold HUNDREDS of setups solely to sign co.'s ... I can count the amount of tool changers I sold on my hands & feet & can count those who really needed that option on my hands...if money is not a concern, heck go for all the bells & whistles..but even when I personally had a tool changer ( was included witb a used machine ) I used it more for convenient storage than anything else..

dust collection..there are many solutions.

things new users tend to overlook that need to be thought about:

adequate space / appropriate space. You need to have the room to load the machine , you need to be able to walk around the machine..u can squeeze some of these things but if you can avoid that it is much more enjoyable to be able to load your machine from either end & not hve to wrestle substrates into a confined space.

you need appropriate space. These machines can be loud..some setups louder than others. They create dust & debris..obviously you can not run them where you will be painting, printing or installing vinyl.

if you are working from home dust,noise,etc as Techman pointed out need to be considered.

electrical needs. You will most likely need to invest in one thing or another to meet the electrical requirements of your machine..this varies from setup to setup,machine to machine,shop to shop..but even though I ve warned every shop to be prepared for this & to plan for it...the majority underestimate it or forget about it entirely until forced to deal with it at the last moment to become operational. The logistics are frustrating when trying to setup & get someone trained on their schedule but hate for anyone to have unexpected financial 'surprises' so you have been warned,consider it,plan for it..

software, I've said it many times ..once you understand cnc routers,what makes them do what they do,how they do it & the 'magic' is gone..it reall is simple technology. All machines essentially do the same thing , some are just built better than others allowing for tighter tolerances,greater speds, longer machine life, less maintenance etc. But the average/normal user will not be able to do complex multi dimensional projects ( think of cut parts with textured surfaces such as a dimensional letter where the face is textured to simulate wood, rock,tree bark,circuit board,whatever you can envision) you can not do this without good software. Most basic cnc software will allow you to cut parts (such as dimensional letters with flat faces) essentially using your machine as an automated 'jigsaw'..but to truly push any cnc router to do what they are capable of you will need quality software (such as enroute..there are many choices depending on your needs & goals) but the reality is that the majority of sign companies (in my experience) use their machines as automated 'jigsaws' cutting panels, dimensional letters,etc, the majority of shops do not use their tools to their potential..so you may or may not need software with all of the bells & whistles..there are many options from simple 2d to full 3d capabilities.

learning curve. I've heard it more times than I can remember..' I went through the learning curve from vinyl to digital printing, color management,etc' .. These are two different animals, it is a new way of thinking (spacially / multi dimensional ) in addition you have computer controlled machinery that has physical limitations & perameters. You can do extreme damage to your equipment if it is not setup,operated,maintained properly..you can also do great physical damage to yourself or others if not operated correctly.

I can not tell you how many machine components I have had to replace in the 1st month of ownership because ppl got too aggressive with their abilities or felt they could bypass safety & setup steps while learning or becoming lazy after they were trained.

sadly I know many people who have lost fingers ( one person 3 fingers on 1 hand) as well as many others who have found themselves on the receiving end of some nasty stitches ( think about it..it is a rotating tool @ seriously high speeds..not a cutting tool like a kife) because they ignored basic safety steps/instructions.

supplies. A startup supply of router bits is an expense but you can grow your collection as your needs increase. You will break some now & then as you push the boundaries & learn what you can & can not do & that the 'silly' instructions/guidelines you are given during training in regards to feed rates rpm/cutting depth/passes etc...that there is reasons why,but it seems every new user needs to push the envelope & learn for themselves.

substrates. You will burn through material to learn but you don't need to use 40# 2" HDU when you are learning .. You can run cheap blue home insulation foam from home depot until you trust your files,setup,your own abilities & practice on a piece of material that costs $10 vs $300+..but I've seen new users who are confident in their abilities & don't want to invest the time in that extra step & seen them go through $1000s of dollars in hdu that could have been easily avoided...

Tech? Others? What other costs can you think of that I maybe overlooking? I've wrote too much already..my apologies just trying to paint a realistic picture since the topic came up.
 

UFB Fabrication

New Member
We run our machine at least 6 hrs a day and some time 6 days a week. We also have a Multicam and run Enroute. Our machine is a 80x120. It was all we had space for when we bought it. We cut a lot of alum and plex since we are mainly a electric shop. When we get another machine it will have 2 beds or a 24 foot bed. That way we can be breaking down and setting up while the other side is running. We also cut a lot for other shops so a small 4x8 for foam PVC and HDPE wont hurt either. We also rarely use the panel saw.

My suggestion is to buy the best you can cause you will only cry once.

Lastly if you dont have the work to buy a router, job it out. Life is to short to try and bang it out with a jigsaw and other foolishness.
 

Ike

New Member
Anyone have any experience with this product? I'm SERIOUSLY considering buying one. We don't do a ton of 3d work, but this bad boy can be had for 5% of what a decent CNC can. I talked to them today, and you can even to tiling and glue ups to make a full 4'x8' panel if you want. I'm intrigued.

www.carvewright.com

Circleville, I own 2 CW and if you like ask any questions. I use it all the time for my sign business.

Ike
 

digitalwoodshop

New Member
I have been a member here for a while and really enjoy the tips on Sign Making. I have had 4 CarveWright's for a few years now and went through all the growing pains with the first "A" models. At this point my "A" models are up to the "C" model reliability with the known fixes. I am also a "Mr. Fix It" on the CarveWright and love them. I make a mix of small signs with the CW and a line of Fire Department Safety Products. I use the CW to cut Accountability Tag blanks from sheet stock and make wood handles for my line of Accountability Boards. If you search "Accountability Tag" in any search engine you will see my sites and images on page 1 with the Big Boys... I have 2 sites. Last year I had $20K in Gross Sales using the CW to make my products.

I too had a Shop Bot on my Wish List but in 2007 I saw the TV Ad and jumped on it that night. Someday I might buy a Shop bot but as it is, I am SO Busy being a 1 man shop I have not used my Vinyl Cutter or Laser Engraver in over 6 months... Just too many toys and too many orders... I post on the CW Forum under Digitalwoodshop as I do here.

I recommend spending some time to read about the CW on the Forum. YES, it is a Hobby Machine and YES, it has had some growing pains getting to where the "C" Model is today.

If you look at the Troubleshooting Threads you will see normal wear and tear failures. When Sears bought the big block of machines to sell, I got one and later 3 others used. They all had problems that were addressed.

I am very proud of my "A" models and with 2 machines over 1000 carving hours.

The machine is a GREAT gateway into the CNC world.

A Dust Collector is pretty much a MUST... A guy sells a Metal Collector Hood called the "Ringneck Blues" collector and I Highly Recommend it...

A 1 HP Dust Collector and the Hood is a GREAT Combo..

As for the Quality of the Work done on the machine, the Quality of the Pattern really makes a difference... Like Printing a photo from a Internet jpg or High Quality Version of the same picture... The Internet Grainy version will never look as good as the High Quality Version. And with Gray scale DEPTH, "NOISE" in the jpg picture used to make a pattern results in SPIKES in the final carved board. SO the Pattern Making Process is something that I have NOT mastered yet... I BUY all my Patterns.

So when looking at the output of the machine you must look at Apples and Apples.... Start with a GOOD Source.

As for the CNC Vector Cut part of the machine, I LOVE IT.... Cuts my FRP Tags with smooth accurate edges. The machine is designed for WOOD and vector cutting FRP was a challenge at first. The Feed Rate is set for WOOD and it was cutting TOO FAST for the .060 End Mill. The work around and it works GREAT, is to select the 1/4 inch bit in the software BUT use the 1/16th End Mill. This locks the Feed Rate into what I call 1st Gear. Normally the Feed Rate and a 1/16th End Mill in WOOD would cut at 2 speeds... 1st Gear on curves and 2nd gear on long runs... It was the 2nd gear that was too fast... So the Work Around works.... A Wish List item for LHR Software Guys is for a selection of feed rates selectable like we now have Depth of Cuts and number of passes.

The machine is not for everyone, but if your just starting out, the CW is worth a look.

My Phone Number is on my web page and I welcome calls and questions about the machine and even repair questions.

AL:signs101:
 

Plustax

New Member
I agree on the Carvewright. I've got 2 myself (both A models), but I've upgrade some parts. To me, they're great and I can carve just about anything out there. I've been using mine for about 4 years and there's always something new to learn and do. We also have guys on the forum that have great ideas and have even implemented them on the CW which makes it even able to do more than what it originally started. The guy at Rockler that pushes/demos their machine was saying everything this his can do and I think he got frustrated when I told him that the CW can do it as well. He was "ill informed" on some of the things he "thought" it couldn't do until I showed him. I won't put down his machine, I'm just saying the CW is great, cheaper and can do just as much (IMO) as the Shark?? (not sure if that's what Rockler promotes).
 

Terremoto

New Member
When I carve a sign, I carve through a mask so I can paint the lettering with reckless abandon. (the panel is pre-painted before the mask goes on) I doubt you will be able to do that with this machine due to the roller feed system. This means I can paint my lettering 3 coats and then gild it way faster, and with less skill, than you could.

That's exactly the same way I do it! Most folks tend to do it the hard way and continue to do so even after they've seen how I do it. I can finish a carved sign in about a quarter of the time it takes using the carve first and paint/gild later method.

Dan
 

bjbethke

New Member
You all raise some very valid points - however, I've seen what this thing can do - hell, it can CNC photographs.

That all being said, I don't want it to just gather dust either. I'm thinking of it as a tool that I would occasionally use for dimensional work, be it pieces or boards, and then most of the time using it to 2D edge cut PVC and HDU.

Photos are not the easiest images to work with, the CarveWright unit works with a grayscale image. I used Photoshop to make my Avatar, this is my Great-grand child.

I make most of my patterns with Line Drawings and use a program called ShaderMap Pro to make the grayscale image.

Most normal CNC units use a DXF file to start with to make the patterns.

I have two CW units, an "A" and "B" model. I am trying to keep the "A" unit as an original. I modified the "B" unit with "C" model parts. It is easy to do that.
 

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fixtureman

New Member
Check out the Let's talk shopbot forum. I have 2 shopbots that I would show you. They are a lot better than the carvewright toys. with the right software you can do just about anything. I use the Vectric Aspire software. Very good price and very good customer support.
 

lynnfrwd

New Member
CarveWright Toys

They are a lot better than the carvewright toys.

Thought I would show you some "toys" made with the CW. Pretty impressive coming from a "toy" machine.
 

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fixtureman

New Member
It still is a toy compared to a full size table. I can do that and also cut any font that comes along bigger than 14 inches tall. Most of my work is in the 36X96 range dthat on a carvewright. Like I said before I got my Shopbots I had a Carvewright and would never consider going back to it.
 

anotherdog

New Member
This thread is great!
I too have been toying with the idea of a CNC router. While I can see it could later become a product that I could sell, I'm interested in it from a hobby point of view. I have been looking at lower end machines knowing that if it did become a product I would upgrade as a business investment.
This thread and the experience of professional CNC signmakers is exactly the kind of information I'm looking for.
 

lynnfrwd

New Member
Wow...impressive stuff!

Can you share some details on the Halo guy....?

I know he is a prop maker in California and AVID Halo groupie (not sure their called a "groupie" or not...I think I just gave away my age!).

My understanding is he used the CW Designer Software along with the STL Importer.

I do know that he carved the body armor into insulation foam and then used it as a mold to create those pieces.
 

lynnfrwd

New Member
Pics not offsite

Here are the other pics back in correct format plus 1.

I'll add some signs over 14" width using what we call the "Tiling Technique", so you can see it really isn't a limitation.
 

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lynnfrwd

New Member
Debunking the 14" limitation of the CarveWright

I understand most of you are professionals with huge CNCs that do exactly what you need them to do. If this is your circumstance than the CW might not be for you, but for those just getting started, exploring CNC for the first time, limited on funds or just trying to find a hobby then the CW is definitely worth a look.

Here are some examples of signs created on the CW that go beyond the 14" width limitation of the machine.
 

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fixtureman

New Member
I do a lot of trade show graphics that are 8 feet tall and 30 feet long and they need to be done within a day or 2.
 

Techman

New Member
I just attended a sign camp where one of the other users has a CW,, Some of the work coming off that "toy" is mind boggling. It is not always the tools it is all too often the user. In this case the user is a master at improve. 3D work form his little CW is outstanding.
 

Brad Knight

New Member
Oh, let me muddy the water a bit - first of all, the CW, for what it is, seems like a decent machine - for what it is, but the simple fact is tha you won't be able to do a 4'x8' sign with a 3-4" Z on a CW. If you accept the limitation of the CW - which is mainly size, horse power and speed - then it's... Ok.

Now, if it were me (and it was a few short years ago) I would opt for a 'full' sized CNC - or at least something you can load the width of a full sized sheet of material, which is generally 48". Now, at the time, I couldn't squeeze a full 4'x8' machine into my shop, but with some grease, some Douglas Adams like twisting of the laws of physic to get a ~60" wide maching through a 30" door... I managed to get a 48"x48" machine into my shop. (of course I've bought a new shop now and have plenty of room, but that first year was tight).

Anyway - I saved. I searched. I studied. I eventually went with a company called camaster - prices were competitive or better than the Shopbot (I don't knock the bots though) - but the biggest difference between the blue (Shopbot) and yellow (CAMaster) is that every one of the CAMasters have a solid welded steel frame - they also have a much better 4th axis setup.

Another thing to keep in mind - be it CAMaster, Shopbot, or carve wright - the hardware will limit the envelope you can work in, but the software is what will give you the ability to pull as much as you can out of that envelope. V-carve pro is good software, and a LOT of what I do isn't really more than v-carving, but Aspire will really let you do some impressive work - and that will actually work on about any CNC.

BTW, one of my recent projects was a 20'x30" bar top of a football field & basketball court that I pulled off with my 48" table that is in a new sports bar - looks brilliant - mostly just v-carves.
 
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