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cutting acrylic
- Thread starter ckoziol
- Start date
artbot
New Member
that is why the festo and other tracksaws are so awesome. they are designed to spin backwards, plunge cut, zero allowance cut pont, perfect splinter free cuts, front and rear stops. it is a panel saw that you can carry anywhere in the shop. a sign maker's dream.
http://festools-online.com/index.ph...ular-saws/festool-ts75-eq-plunge-cut-saw.html
http://festools-online.com/index.ph...ular-saws/festool-ts75-eq-plunge-cut-saw.html
signmeup
New Member
Saw blade manufacturers make blades for the specific purpose of cutting plastic. "Those in the know" choose the proper blade from a reputable manufacturer and follow the directions.
Techman
New Member
Sorry,, but them so called proper blades will never replace facts.
When cutting plastic.. A grabbing blade will always mess it up.
non grabbing blade will not mess it up. That's a fact.
And just so you know,,, the plastic cutting blade are reversed rake saw blade for cutting plastics. Its the very same idea of using a backwards running paneling saw blade. Where ya think they got the idea for this plastic blade in the first place?
They also have a reverse rake blade for cutting metal. I looked at one the other day just to see if it would cut plastics like the old days when before "proper" plastic cutting blade was made.
signmeup
New Member
"Just so I know"? Dude.... you've got no idea what I know. I can tell you one thing... I know better that to but saw blades in backwards.... or to tell other people to do it on a public forum.
CentralSigns
New Member
I just use a non-ferus metal blade use it for Alupanel, Aluminum and Acrylic. Call it the triple A blade. You can use it in a table saw or skill saw. When you don't have one, I have used a fine blade back-ass-ward in the skillsaw. It also worked OK in a pinch.
artbot
New Member
one more time then i'll leave it alone. acrylic is too bouncy at a light weight, and has too many heat and weight issues when it gets thick (extremely heavy). properly cutting acrylic is to cut it "dead wood" style. that is to not move the material, rather move the tool. anything other than a tracksaw (which is only spins "backwards" and of course loads the blade "backwards"), a panel saw, a cnc router table, or a router and guide rail is half a$$ing it. a nice piece of acrylic costs about $200. at least spend twice that on a proper tool to cut it.
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A fine set TCT blade which has been designed for the aluminium industry..... that's all you need and that's all a "special" acrylic blade is.... a fine set TCT blade for aluminium re branded and stuck in a "plastic saw blade box".
If your blade is chipping then either the blade is way too coarse (i.e, it has too few teeth) or, it's as blunt as hell.
If you blade is melting the swarf back to the sheet then it's blunt and cutting through your acrylic like a grinding disc does..... abrading rather than cutting and building up a lot of friction which manifests as HEAT.
There is NO big secret here... chipping is always caused by a blade which is too harsh with too few teeth and melting is always caused by blunt TCT teeth.
If you plan to cut a lot of acrylic you need TWO identical blades so you always have a razor sharp honed blade ready to swap the moment the blade in the machine starts to dull. This is the BIG secret to cutting any kind of plastic on any machine which uses a spinning metal tool... two identical tools, one sharp one knackered... the sharp tool ALWAYS delivers... the dull tool ALWAYS makes a mess.
As for the rotation direction.... the right blade which is kept sharp will cut just fine in the correct direction. Flipping blades is asking the back of your TCT blades to do the cutting.... they haven't been ground or sharpened to do this and the TCT blade tips have been cemented to the blade with the expectation that loading force will be applied to the correct face of each tooth. Flipping blades is dangerous because it can "ping" off the TCT teeth and will lead to nasty kick back which can catapult your acrylic across the shop floor.
The masking on your acrylic does not provide any lubrication.... it's there simply to protect from scratches. Paper masking is an oddity exclusive to the US.... in Europe all our acrylic has always been sold with a plastic film mask like you'd find on alupanel. If paper was better for cutting we would have changed over to it...... we haven't.
If your blade is chipping then either the blade is way too coarse (i.e, it has too few teeth) or, it's as blunt as hell.
If you blade is melting the swarf back to the sheet then it's blunt and cutting through your acrylic like a grinding disc does..... abrading rather than cutting and building up a lot of friction which manifests as HEAT.
There is NO big secret here... chipping is always caused by a blade which is too harsh with too few teeth and melting is always caused by blunt TCT teeth.
If you plan to cut a lot of acrylic you need TWO identical blades so you always have a razor sharp honed blade ready to swap the moment the blade in the machine starts to dull. This is the BIG secret to cutting any kind of plastic on any machine which uses a spinning metal tool... two identical tools, one sharp one knackered... the sharp tool ALWAYS delivers... the dull tool ALWAYS makes a mess.
As for the rotation direction.... the right blade which is kept sharp will cut just fine in the correct direction. Flipping blades is asking the back of your TCT blades to do the cutting.... they haven't been ground or sharpened to do this and the TCT blade tips have been cemented to the blade with the expectation that loading force will be applied to the correct face of each tooth. Flipping blades is dangerous because it can "ping" off the TCT teeth and will lead to nasty kick back which can catapult your acrylic across the shop floor.
The masking on your acrylic does not provide any lubrication.... it's there simply to protect from scratches. Paper masking is an oddity exclusive to the US.... in Europe all our acrylic has always been sold with a plastic film mask like you'd find on alupanel. If paper was better for cutting we would have changed over to it...... we haven't.
CentralSigns
New Member
That was a little rude. Your tool is nothing more than a skill saw with a $250 guide system. Works just like my skill saw. The blade they show at your website plug, doesn't have nearly enough teeth to be effective. Maybe you aren't familiar with skillsaws or blade types but they work the same way. A table saw spins up towards you, and a skill saw spins down away from you. The key to not having chipping is number of teeth, blade depth and having the edge supported as close to the cut as possible. Buy a good blade and shorten the blade depth to about an 1/8 past the material, no more. If you have a good skill saw and blade ya don't need a $500 saw to cut acrylic. If you should happen to have a small chip on the edge of any acrylic they are of no concern as most times the edge is encased in a frame hiding 1/2 inch all around it.
signmeup
New Member
I'll take one more stab at it myself. The OP chose the correct tool for the job by scoring it. To cut anything with a saw you should have 3 teeth in the material to prevent chipping and grabbing. 1/8" acrylic would require a tooth every 40 thou. (.040") I don't know of any circular blades with that many teeth. (10" dia. would be 250 teeth) The Freud plastic blade mentioned in this thread is recommended for material 1/4" and up.
That track saw is a nice looking piece of kit BTW. Love the plunge feature.
That track saw is a nice looking piece of kit BTW. Love the plunge feature.
artbot
New Member
@centralsigns.
trust me i know what i am talking about. i've worked with acrylic for over 20 years now as a substrate. and i've cut with everything. the tracksaw cuts a line so perfect with so little variance and zero chatter. if you are needing to polish the edge afterward, you need a butter smooth edge to cut down on sanding the edge. when i need to cut really thick acrylic (3/4"+) i take the ultramitre blade of my miter saw. it is the nicest blade made period (a $250 triple chip, so balanced, it's nuts).
if you are cutting into an expensive piece of acrylic that is going to require edge polishing and you need a PERFECT cut with no risk of a single chip anywhere, a tracksaw is the way to go. when you go to an acrylic supplier what do they cut their acrylic with? a giant upside down track saw. sorry if i offended. you can "cut" acrylic with a skill saw. but it is not a professional cutting system. a swiss made track saw (dewalt makes one too that is very nice) is a dream machine.
trust me i know what i am talking about. i've worked with acrylic for over 20 years now as a substrate. and i've cut with everything. the tracksaw cuts a line so perfect with so little variance and zero chatter. if you are needing to polish the edge afterward, you need a butter smooth edge to cut down on sanding the edge. when i need to cut really thick acrylic (3/4"+) i take the ultramitre blade of my miter saw. it is the nicest blade made period (a $250 triple chip, so balanced, it's nuts).
if you are cutting into an expensive piece of acrylic that is going to require edge polishing and you need a PERFECT cut with no risk of a single chip anywhere, a tracksaw is the way to go. when you go to an acrylic supplier what do they cut their acrylic with? a giant upside down track saw. sorry if i offended. you can "cut" acrylic with a skill saw. but it is not a professional cutting system. a swiss made track saw (dewalt makes one too that is very nice) is a dream machine.
CentralSigns
New Member
Both the suppliers I deal with cut the acrylic with a skill Saw and a guide. Your suppliers must be fools. I have yet to damage a piece of acrylic with a skill saw as well.
Not that anyone reads the actual instructions, here's what the manufacturer recommends -
http://www.plaskolite.com/pdf/Acrylic_Sheet_Fabrication_Guide.pdf
http://www.plaskolite.com/pdf/Acrylic_Sheet_Fabrication_Guide.pdf
artbot
New Member
compound mitered bases
also, this is some nifty stuff you can do. this is a 3" deep compound mitered "look" base with aluminum top. cut with a single pass at an angle with the tracksaw. the edge left behind was so smooth and perfect that sanding with 600 grit would be a waste of time. very tricky with a table saw, actually dangerous. but with a tracksaw, you don't even break a sweat.
a $6000 piece of aluminum is a scary thing go chop up. this is why i need a tracksaw. the etched resist pass and color/white done with a jv3.
also, this is some nifty stuff you can do. this is a 3" deep compound mitered "look" base with aluminum top. cut with a single pass at an angle with the tracksaw. the edge left behind was so smooth and perfect that sanding with 600 grit would be a waste of time. very tricky with a table saw, actually dangerous. but with a tracksaw, you don't even break a sweat.
a $6000 piece of aluminum is a scary thing go chop up. this is why i need a tracksaw. the etched resist pass and color/white done with a jv3.
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Just Another Sign Guy
New Member
nif·ty /ˈnɪfti/ Show Spelled [nif-tee] Show IPA adjective, -ti·er, -ti·est, noun, plural -ties. Informal .
–adjective
1. attractively stylish or smart: a nifty new dress for Easter.
2. very good; fine; excellent: a nifty idea.
3. substantial; sizable: We sold the car for a nifty profit.
–noun
4. something nifty, as a clever remark or joke.
i would never go as far as to say that my own work was "nifty", fine or excellent...but especially in cases of 'art', i would leave that up to my clients...i would also not go as far as to tell an artist that their work was crap, even if that was my opinion as it is obviously subjective.
nothing like tootin your own horn.....beep beep.
–adjective
1. attractively stylish or smart: a nifty new dress for Easter.
2. very good; fine; excellent: a nifty idea.
3. substantial; sizable: We sold the car for a nifty profit.
–noun
4. something nifty, as a clever remark or joke.
i would never go as far as to say that my own work was "nifty", fine or excellent...but especially in cases of 'art', i would leave that up to my clients...i would also not go as far as to tell an artist that their work was crap, even if that was my opinion as it is obviously subjective.
nothing like tootin your own horn.....beep beep.
