Dry erase dilema

[Colin]

Did this yesterday, and it was "interesting." Yes, it did indeed require another person to pull the thin, clear backing. I learned that when I first layed the material down in place and then taped the starting edge down, I needed to cover more of the material with the tape than normal. Normally, with a print, I'll cover the edge by about 1/8", but this stuff needed about 3/8" coverage to get a good start. And the backing would not release at the corner like it does on vinyl, I had to use a small piece of masking tape to initially coax it off one corner.

I won't use this stuff again; I'll use the white dry-erase with the paper backing.

Thanks

 

[MikeSTK]

May I ask how the finished product looked over the coro? I was concerned about all the lines.

And while I am already typing, is it feasible to cover over old dry erase boards with any variation of this material? Is the transparency a speedbump?

I had someone ask the second question months ago. I didn't tackle it, but maybe I could have?

 

[Colin]

May I ask how the finished product looked over the coro? I was concerned about all the lines.

Just fine. Very glossy though.

And while I am already typing, is it feasible to cover over old dry erase boards with any variation of this material? Is the transparency a speedbump?

In that case I would use the solid white dry-erase film, because usually an old, used board will have residual markings, and this clear film would not hide it.


*I actually covered over a gray vinyl grid (see attached). My original plan was to cover the entire sheet with the dry-erase film, then put the grid on top, but then I thought that the gray grid would get all marked up from the pens, so I put it on first and then covered it (+1/2" bigger than the grid) with the dry-erase film. It worked!

 

[Salmoneye]

I have learned to do it myself but it is a pain having to pull the thin liner with one hand and run the bs with the other. I tape the leading (starting edge to my glass table and set the bs just before it, then I pull the lam from the end back over itself to the BS and roll it up in a forward motion. Once the lam is rolled I lift it up in the cradle and let it sit, this exposes the leading edge of the backing paper so I can get one of the corners releasing without holding the roll at all. The point of my exacto always seems to work fine but usually I can just put a thumb on the release liner and push it forward and when it meets resistance from the mask on the table it separates by itself. No idea if this made sense when being read. BS is definitely better with thicker backing papers and shops with more humidity than mine.

 

[oldgoatroper]

find a supplier that has 2mil DE film... it does exist...

also... I always use transfer tape with it... and yes, it is still a pain...

But when it goes down well, the results can look quite nice.

 

[mharrison]

We used Wypet from Fellers. Its a 2mil dry erase overlaminate. It has a very thin backing but works well on our laminator. We just did (4) 4x8 prints and went down without a problem. We also use this when we do the large printed checks for customers. Would never recomend putting down by hand.

 

[ANG]

Standard lamination works as dry erase material as well. Just one thing - DO NOT use RED dry erase marker, other colors wipe off.

 

[Colin]

Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I'm having a similar problem again. Does anyone know of a clear Dry-Erase film that is either thicker than the standard ~1mil (like 2mil or more) and/or has a thicker backing paper. I'm perplexed as to why the manufacturers make the backing paper so darn thin.

 

[J Hill Designs]

I know Hexis white dry erase is nice and thick with a very workable backing - maybe ask if its the same for clear

 

[Colin]

I know Hexis white dry erase is nice and thick with a very workable backing - maybe ask if its the same for clear

Thanks, who carries that?

 

[J Hill Designs]

Thanks, who carries that?

hexis - order direct

 

[gabagoo]

Hey Colin. ND sells SEAL write on erase and it comes on a pale blue paper backer. You can buy it in 12meter rolls I think as well as 300 footers. As for Hexis in Canada, I think all graphics sells the stuff, although I am not sure if they carry the write erase film.

 

[Colin]

Thanks. I've asked ND for a sample of that, but I also just now found a 4 mil product, and am awaiting a sample of that too:

http://www.fdcfilms.com/series/promotional-dry-erase-vinyl-filmnbsp

 

[bwsaw]

Colin, please let me know what you find, I am also interested in a quality dry erase laminate that applies with the BS

 

[Colin]

Will do. I receive a small sample likely by Friday. If the backing paper is still super-thin, I wonder if this will still be an issue in getting the film down without wrinkles, or if the added thickness of the film itself will take care of the problem.

 

[knightsarmore]

fun...

we have used this many times and it is not fun but it works fine.. for something this big we taped down one end put the piece of corp under it with inches to spare on each side pulled back the film cut it off then stood on the table and layer it down slowly.. it was a 2 man operation but it worked..lol... we don't do enough of this but have made it happen..

 

[Desert_Signs]

I've used several rolls of Concept 111 I get from N. Glantz. It's 2 mil, with a paper backer. It laminates pretty much just like every other laminate I use. It is a General Formulations product.

 

[Colin]

Colin, please let me know what you find, I am also interested in a quality dry erase laminate that applies with the BS

I just received the small sample this morning, and am thrilled to report that the FDC film is nice and thick (4 mil), and the backing paper is thick too. I just ordered a bunch.