Frosted Vinyl Help

[jkdbjj]

Hi everyone, I have a customer that I have been applying frosted vinyl for, for the last 4 years. However, it is usually small amounts here and there, mostly on store fronts. Even then I rarely get a perfect install, without a tiny bubble or two. You can't really pop those bubbles, cause the damage spot never goes away with frosted material.

Anyway, customer has never mentioned it, but I am a perfectionist.

All these jobs are small, but somewhat intricate words or graphics with the material. I have a much bigger job coming up. So here is what I wanted to ask you all.

Wet or Dry? I was told to NEVER do wet on this material, so I never do. Only dry for me so far.
I use a regular tac premask, white colored, nothing fancy.

What tips or tricks can you offer? Should I use a particular premask for better results? Should I use a particular squeegee technique? Should I try the big squeegee?

 

[Hog Wild graphics]

I have used oracal 8510 on some 4 by 6 windows. Wet applied with no problems at all.

I was very uncomfortible(because I never do wet apply) wet applying it but thats what I was told and it turn out great.

 

[Malkin]

I think lots of people will say wet apply is the way to go with that material.

 

[bob]

...
What tips or tricks can you offer? Should I use a particular premask for better results? Should I use a particular squeegee technique? Should I try the big squeegee?

It has little to do with whatever app tape you use, it's all squeegee technique.

First, let the squeegee put the media on the substrate. Always,

Then when you squeegee always, as in always, start with the squeegee completely on the previous pass. The move the squeegee in one motion, do not stop, stutter, or sketch, keeping constant and a goodly amount of pressure. Let the stoke finish with at least 1/4, or more, of the squeegee still on the previous pass.

What you want is to never, ever, be squeegeeing unplowed ground. All you want to do is widen the previous stroke.

How do you start, I hear you cry? Assuming you're right handed and you've hinged the work on the right, you start with the squeegee completely on the substrate and, at the end of the first stroke, end up with no more than 1/2 the squeegee on the work and 1/2 the squeegee still on the substrate.

A constant stroke that puts the media in contact with the substrate and never having both edges of the squeegee on as yet unsqueegeed media will consistently yield a bubble free application.

 

[fmg]

On glass Rapid tac kicks a$$

 

[jkdbjj]

Interesting. So this is to everyone.

These installs are ALWAYS on glass, and the are generally intricately cutout shapes. Does that effect the wet install? My experience is that more intricate cut things letter etc don't do well with wet install.

Just wanted to go over this again to make sure you are clear with that kind of cut frosted vinyl.

Thanks

 

[Moze]

I would definitely install wet. I also use a two-step process to minimize/eliminate dust: immediately prior to applying, wipe the glass with a microfiber rag and follow that with an unused Swiffer hand duster. That typically eliminates all dust and debris and the resulting blemishes. As far as air bubbles, the post prior to mine nailed it.

 

[Moze]

Interesting. So this is to everyone.

These installs are ALWAYS on glass, and the are generally intricately cutout shapes. Does that effect the wet install? My experience is that more intricate cut things letter etc don't do well with wet install.

Just wanted to go over this again to make sure you are clear with that kind of cut frosted vinyl.

Thanks

Apply wet, squeegee hard, wet the transfer tape, then remove.

 

[jkdbjj]

Apply wet, squeegee hard, wet the transfer tape, then remove.

You're brave

Maybe I'll practice with some rapid tac and see how it goes on some glass before I head out. This is quite a large job, and will be viewed very closely. A bit nervous to be honest, and I don't like feeling that way.

 

[Moze]

....ok, apply FIRMLY lol

 

[Sticky Signs]

If your going to do it wet, make sure you let it sit for a good long while before removing the mask. It also helps to wet the mask before removal.

 

[CES020]

I agree with Sticky!

Personally, we use RapidTac 2, not the standard one. We apply wet, then we let it sit for 20-30 minutes to let the solution dry. That's why we use the #2 instead of the original, it evaporates quicker. Soak the transfer tape with it after that 20 minutes, let it soak in for a minute or two and peel.

I've done a number of sets of full glass doors, along with very fine detailed work and that method has served me well. I have no idea if it's "technically right", but it works well and I can't recall having even the tiniest bubbles. What we have gotten burned on more than anything is actual trash in the media, from the factory. We had one roll that had a gnat in it about every 3 feet or so. Of course we found them during the install and had to strip them and reorder another roll and reapply. Frustrating to find bugs in your media!

 

[Jillbeans]

Use Rapid Tac 2, not regular RT.
Otherwise it will take forever to dry and the intricacies can shift around or come loose.
Love....Jill

 

[jkdbjj]

So to be clear, no one recommends one type of pre mask over the other, clear vs white etc?

Thanks again. The job came through, so gotta build my confidence up!

 

[J Hill Designs]

I dont recommend clear...always the 'papery' stuff for wet apply (full coverage etched is always wet applied at my shop)

 

[btropical.com]

we use diabetic needles to pop any bubbles

 

[Rick]

NO CLEAR!... as far as app tape, I always used 3M, It's thicker and less apt to bind when wet causing detailed cuts to shift. Hydrate tape before you pull app tape off.

 

[jkdbjj]

Will do, and I'll post some pics when I am done. Thanks again.

 

[TammieH]

We started using Splash, at least I think it works better than Rapid Tac...Also if you can try and talk your customers into the frosted sparkle type vinyls, they are so much more forgiving.

 

[jkdbjj]

Thanks Tammie.

Btw, anyone favor a frosted vinyl brand? I have used that expensive 3M F-type colored stuff before don't have the name in from of me. And I have used the Oracal plenty of times. Anyone been through them all and favor one?

It's going to be the silver finish kind.