Grain in colors.

[Jester1167]

"Here is the odd one. Normally when i watch the image print it prints very small lines at a time and moves up the paper printing. I paused the print and moved the media so that i could look at it. I was done so i canceled the print and it made one pas and made this very wide faint print in one pass all in one movement. Anyone know what it would make a pass this wide when normally it makes a small pass.."

It always prints that wide except at the start and end of a print. Say your printing 8 passes. That is 8 passes per inch so the first pass in 1/8" wide, then it advances an 1/8" and prints the second pass at a 1/4" wide, third 3/8"... until it prints 8/8 or the full 1" wide swath. When you moved the print the printer didn't know and it resumed printing a full pass.

 

[altereddezignz]

"Here is the odd one. Normally when i watch the image print it prints very small lines at a time and moves up the paper printing. I paused the print and moved the media so that i could look at it. I was done so i canceled the print and it made one pas and made this very wide faint print in one pass all in one movement. Anyone know what it would make a pass this wide when normally it makes a small pass.."

It always prints that wide except at the start and end of a print. Say your printing 8 passes. That is 8 passes per inch so the first pass in 1/8" wide, then it advances an 1/8" and prints the second pass at a 1/4" wide, third 3/8"... until it prints 8/8 or the full 1" wide swath. When you moved the print the printer didn't know and it resumed printing a full pass.

No from watching mine print it only prints small passes nothing large. I am about to go back over and watch it again to make sure. Dont hold me to it but either i have never noticed it in all the test prints i have done or well i dont know lol...

 

[altereddezignz]

I want to see a nozzle test print.

Here you go. I didnt take a image of the yellow as i have no issues with it and that it really cannot be seen in an image. I tried scanning but it was even worse.

 

[altereddezignz]

Ok back now from printing a few more samples. The best print i can get is from using the file that Castek Resources sent me and turning the Pure hue on along with opening the file directly in Production Manager for Flexi. The black is really thick yet the Magenta and the Yellow print great. The cyan on the other hand has a lot of grain in it. I will attach an image of the Cyan and the Black.

I also tried printing with the head in the high mode but it made no difference at all in the print and if anything made the black look worse.

 

[player]

Here you go. I didnt take a image of the yellow as i have no issues with it and that it really cannot be seen in an image. I tried scanning but it was even worse.

What kind of printer is it?

 

[altereddezignz]

Mutoh 1324. All new dampers, New maint cap, new lines, new ink, new media, new software install, all new cables.

No matter what i do i get a grainy print for the most part. Cyan and black are bad, Yellow and Magenta are not bad.
I have printed with pure hue on and off, Printed directly from PM and from flexi. Also printed by saving an illustrator file as an .AI and .EPS and by opening in flexi and by opening in PM.

 

[player]

I am using flexi 12 cloud. Basically set it to no color correction but leave the type of material in the media box this way it keeps the temp settings?
Image included.

I couldnt find anything about the preserve pure hues.

Does this mean you are not using a media profile? It looks like you are printing in high speed, which equals low quality.

If the ink is OEM, and you have all new parts, it's got to be a Flexi setting to me.

 

[altereddezignz]

Yes using a media profile. You can set it from Flexi or from PM. Using the profiles for the material i am printing on. Even tried swapping profiles for media i am not printing on with the exact same results. Have talked to people printing with the same medai and same profile with the same setting and have yet to see the issues that i am seeing. The setting in the profile i showed an image of is exactly the same as it was when it came from avery or ora. Also i have even tried changing to 1440x1440 with pretty much the same results.

 

[J Hill Designs]

do you have an IR thermometer that you can use to make sure the heaters are working properly?

 

[altereddezignz]

Does this mean you are not using a media profile? It looks like you are printing in high speed, which equals low quality.

If the ink is OEM, and you have all new parts, it's got to be a Flexi setting to me.

I did this when someone asked me to remove the color correction. This is not how i have ti set up to print.

 

[altereddezignz]

do you have an IR thermometer that you can use to make sure the heaters are working properly?

Yes and i also have the vsm software that i can watch each heater warm up and watch the temp of all 3 along with the temp of the head as it is printing.

They all stay within a couple degrees and head is around 78-80 when printing. Room is around 70 degrees temp all the time.

 

[altereddezignz]

Going nuts here. So I have lowered the pre temp to 42-45 down from 47. So right now its around 42 or so on the pre heat, then 45 and dry on 50.
I have a file that i had outsources as i have told you and i have yet to be able to match these colors. I am able to get close by using the pure hue all on for the vector or spot colors. This really helps the vibrancy of the color. The yellow on the other hand always looks grainy and well just not perfect.

Anyone have any other ideas that can help. I have acquired a new version of the ora 3165 profile i have tested and tested the colors to try and get the correct color. Every minor change to temp or to the quality setting seems to change the color.

Can anyone tell me a down side to using the Pure hue all the time to on in flexi?

 

[signman88]

Are you using weaving effects? I'm running a VJ-1324 myself and when I don't use weaving effects, I get that sort of banding.

 

[altereddezignz]

I have tried multiple weaving effects but never set it to none. Most of my banding is gone and now im just having crazy issues with getting the colors correct.

 

[P Wagner]

I have tried multiple weaving effects but never set it to none. Most of my banding is gone and now im just having crazy issues with getting the colors correct.

It sounds like you are getting a lengthy crash course in color management on the printer: the short answer is that everything will have an effect on the color result. Temperature, print resolution, print mode, RIP settings, etc. By the way there is no problem with using Pure Hues for the primary colors CMYK. All it does is ensure that only one single color ink is used when those colors are printed.

 

[guitarguy69]

I notice quite a few deflected nozzles in the K nozzle test especially. This will definitely play a role in what you are seeing. Have you tried any head soaks?

If you could, post a picture of the utility mode nozzle test, as that will show more specifically what the issues with the print head may be.

 

[altereddezignz]

It sounds like you are getting a lengthy crash course in color management on the printer: the short answer is that everything will have an effect on the color result. Temperature, print resolution, print mode, RIP settings, etc. By the way there is no problem with using Pure Hues for the primary colors CMYK. All it does is ensure that only one single color ink is used when those colors are printed.

Crash course is a light statement lol. Well let me ask this then. The mix of cmyl 100/79/0/0. Now when this is printed with pure hue off you get a darker no rich blue. When it is turned on your get a more vibrant rich blue closer to the color it is supposed to be. I thought the pure hue only affected pure colors as 100/0/0/0 or 0/100/0/0 or 0/0/100/0 and 0/0/0/100?

 

[altereddezignz]

I notice quite a few deflected nozzles in the K nozzle test especially. This will definitely play a role in what you are seeing. Have you tried any head soaks?

If you could, post a picture of the utility mode nozzle test, as that will show more specifically what the issues with the print head may be.

This head received a 72 hour head soak before it was put back together. Forward and rear flushing of cleaner.