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is there any way to fix this blur? Roland SP54V

Sweet thanks I'm going to buy one today and update progress.

Ihave a multimeter, so what fuse do I test?
LEFT SIDE
Circboard fuse.jpg
RIGHT SIDE
Circboard fuserightside.jpg
 

phototec

New Member
Ihave a multimeter, so what fuse do I test?
LEFT SIDE
View attachment 97357
RIGHT SIDE
View attachment 97358

Yes you need an electrical tester. Open the back cover by the power. Find the fuses on the main board. Mine are near the bottom right corner, just below where the two ribbon cables are inserted into the board. Touch the 2 sides of the fuse and see if power goes through...

:goodpost:

Please slow down and read all the posts or you are going to mess up!

Player had clearly told you where the fuses are located (see above in red), also read his thread, he is going through the same problems RIGHT NOW.

USE CAUTIION when working on the electronics, make sure the power is OFF the printer is UNPLUGGED, you have pressed the power switch to bleed any residual power from the capacitors, and YOU are wearing a wrist grounding strap that is connected to a good grounding point on the printer chassis.

[video=youtube;QB5a3mSElSw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QB5a3mSElSw[/video]



Do it right the FIRST TIME, and you will not escalate the problem....

Good luck - Let us know how you come out.

:thumb:
 
So Positive :) Yea I'll be sure to ground and let all the current drain. But its located in the back of the printer not front see I would figure the fuses would be located in front due to access to the printheads. I'll Check it when I get back and see what i get I did test the fuse looking items in the pictures above and everything was good.

I'm printing right now in Magenta and Yellow and cutting some white so it should be done by the time I get back.
Will update once I return.
 

phototec

New Member
So Positive :) Yea I'll be sure to ground and let all the current drain. But its located in the back of the printer not front see I would figure the fuses would be located in front due to access to the printheads. I'll Check it when I get back and see what i get I did test the fuse looking items in the pictures above and everything was good.

I'm printing right now in Magenta and Yellow and cutting some white so it should be done by the time I get back.
Will update once I return.

Yes, the two small surface mount fuses are loacated on the main board in the back of the printer. If one of the two fueses is blown (open), you need to replace it.

They are very small and difficult to solder if you don't have experience with theses very small SMT electronic components. If too much heat is applied to the circuit board, you can actually cause irreversible damage to the board if the solder pad on the board comes loose and starts to curl up.

However there is another option that is better for two reasons, one is you don't have to remover the blown fuse and two, you will have the ability to replace a blown fuse in the future without any soldering.

The solution is the solder jumper wires to both sides of the blown fuse (leaving it on the board) and then attach the other ends of the wire to a FUSE HOLDER, and using the standard type of glass fuse (1.6A 125v FAST BLOW), you can easily change out the fuse if it blows again.

Taking this option makes the soldering safer because you are applying heat to the top of the old (blown) fuse which is insulating heat from the circuit board.

Attached is a pdf guide on how to do this for a different printer, however using the correct sized fuse, this will also work for the SP-540V.

:smile:
 

Attachments

  • Replacing Mutoh head Fuse.pdf
    905.9 KB · Views: 213
  • SP540Board.jpg
    SP540Board.jpg
    51.4 KB · Views: 394
Thanks for the pic Phototec so I opened the back and did test very difficult but made sure I was touching the the fuses.


So which one in PC98 controls black / blue? is it F3 or F2

IMG_1694SM.jpg
 
It will be the one that fails the continuity test...



Mine was the fuse on the left.

I ask because I want to be more certain that its the issue.

My connection test still sparked some current but very small.. the other took the needle to the top.

Can you still get some current on an open circuit?
 

player

New Member
Sorry my bad fuse was on the right not left.

I doubt it but I use a digital meter. I set it to ohms. The meter reads 1 and when I touch the probes it goes to zero. So when I tested the fuses the left fuse gave me zero, the right one gave me 1. So it was the right one that was bad.
 

techsign33

New Member
I ask because I want to be more certain that its the issue.

My connection test still sparked some current but very small.. the other took the needle to the top.

Can you still get some current on an open circuit?




I think you test the wrong part. mybe you test a resistor not the fuse.
The fuse is the white part with chrom sides , which printed above 1.6A.
According to the service manual which lablel by
F2 for B&C print head . which label by F3 for M&Y print head.


The multimeter you used have needle that mean you have the analog one I never use it http://www.ebay.com/bhp/analog-multimeter
If you have the digital multimeter mybe will be more easy on the OHM arrangement down there is diode draw imagesCAY0ZOH5.jpg with waves voice )))) https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/parts-of-a-multimeter

when you test the fuse if work the electric current passed you will hear the sound beep , if the fuse not work( cut line) the electric current not passed you will not hear the beep sound.
 
Last edited:
I think you test the wrong part. mybe you test a resistor not the fuse.
The fuse is the white part with chrom sides , which printed above 1.6A.
According to the service manual which lablel by
F2 for B&C head . which label by F3 for M&Y head.



Thanks F2 should be the bad one then i'm going to check again. Yes I have a multimeter I can show you a picture of it if you like.

It doesn't beep but I can watch the needle.
I know the fuses are the ones marked KOAC 1.6
 
OK I rewired a new fuse and my printers back printing again now I still need to fix the issue with the blue/black blurring.

I will take a look at the head and try and clean it really good.

Any suggestions?
 

rjq1125

New Member
Jtruck did u ever fix the blurry issue? I'm having the same problem. Please let me know. If u did, what did u do to fix it. Thank u in advance.
 
So I found that cleaning the heads and moving the head height helped the print quality improve. So feel free to try that.

Aside from that is there any decent techs in the Cincinnati area who can work on a Roland SP540 ?
 

rjssigns

Active Member
Did you try cleaning the encoder strip? Could be the encoder strip is shot too.

I replaced one on my SP540V a while ago. You can use a generic strip as long as its 180LPI. Got mine delivered for 30 bucks. Printed like a champ for a while then I had to replace all the ribbon cables that rest in the tray. They can only take so many bend cycles. Who knew? LOL
Prints like a champ.
 
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