Discussion I've owned an HP R1000 since April 2019, ask me anything

[dbot]

Thanks for the reply’s!!
We got one client now it’s an international bank and their spec is a blue acm sign with a dark blue fade at the bottom and then cut out letters with push through acrylic. So I was planning on getting blue acm and then printing a dark blue to clear fade and then running it through through the Zund for the cut out. Was not super keen on lamination though. And I feel it will mess up the look.

 

[Albert C Saranguero]

Hello everyone,

Feeling a bit chatty lately while working night shifts to keep up with a large job. Wife's running day ops which leaves me alone with my vices and equipment.

Anyway, as the title says we've had an R1000 in our shop since the first few months of US availability. We upgraded from a Scitex FB550 which we owned for a year before the R series was announced and we decided to sell the 550 and upgrade.

Being owner to new tech meant there hasn't been much I could find online when troubleshooting or researching in this last year. Even videos of the machine operating (outside of EU owners) were sparse. There is the HP knowledge center but it's still lacking for the R series.

So I'm here to answer any questions you might have. Maybe this can serve as a future resource for other R1000 and R2000 owners.

Good day Sir, do you have QR code password generator

Hello everyone,

Feeling a bit chatty lately while working night shifts to keep up with a large job. Wife's running day ops which leaves me alone with my vices and equipment.

Anyway, as the title says we've had an R1000 in our shop since the first few months of US availability. We upgraded from a Scitex FB550 which we owned for a year before the R series was announced and we decided to sell the 550 and upgrade.

Being owner to new tech meant there hasn't been much I could find online when troubleshooting or researching in this last year. Even videos of the machine operating (outside of EU owners) were sparse. There is the HP knowledge center but it's still lacking for the R series.

So I'm here to answer any questions you might have. Maybe this can serve as a future resource for other R1000 and R2000 owners.

Good day Sir, We have R2000+ and I need QR code password generator use on Diagnostic do you have it?

 

[ToTo]

The password is created based on technician credentials at HP. It requires to be trained @ HP.

 

[ToTo]

Good day Sir, do you have QR code password generator

Good day Sir, We have R2000+ and I need QR code password generator use on Diagnostic do you have it?

The password is created based on technician credentials at HP. It requires to be trained @ HP. Most of diagnostics are available to operator. Those who are not should only be used with necessary skills to prevent from additional damages.

 

[Terrance the Deuce]

I've had an R2000 a few years now and I regret it. Even with overcoat, aluminum and acm scratch way too easy imo. .040 aluminum and styrene are still a pain in the ass to print on despite what the sales people say. Good luck finding the right heat settings that don't cause the boards to warp and head strike yet still fully cures and dries the ink. Also with latex you have the added issue of needing to be super picky about which brands of boards you buy because you get all kinds of washed out looking or streaky prints unless you basically soak some sheets in alcohol before printing. I've had this problem on ACM and foam PVC. Unless a white ink system is must have I'd shop around if you just need a fast board printer. IMO the pros of latex don't yet outweigh the cons on boards. I'm happy to hear some disagreement and/or solutions.

 

[parrott]

The latex machines are plastic toys. There is no real production out of those machines. They look cool and you get the fancy HP badge but they will eat you up with consumables and service contracts. Not to mention adding heat to printing flatboards is the worst idea I have heard. LED is the best thing that has happened in flatbed industry in a long time. Instant on/off, low heat and cures very well (with a good ink set). You can print on practically anything.

I’m not saying they don’t have their place, but if you want real production…look else where.

 

[balstestrat]

Big firmware update coming out right now. Loads of little fixes and bigger improvements, definitely worth updating when the maintenance drops.

 

[XtremeXccessories]

In the site prep guide for this machine it says the minimum ceiling height is 9'8.5", why?

 

[balstestrat]

In the site prep guide for this machine it says the minimum ceiling height is 9'8.5", why?

Eh who knows. Some engineer has measured their lab ceiling and decided that's good height.
I've installed way lower. Just have proper air exchange and it shouldn't matter.

 

[LarryB]

I've had an R2000 a few years now and I regret it. Even with overcoat, aluminum and acm scratch way too easy imo. .040 aluminum and styrene are still a pain in the ass to print on despite what the sales people say. Good luck finding the right heat settings that don't cause the boards to warp and head strike yet still fully cures and dries the ink. Also with latex you have the added issue of needing to be super picky about which brands of boards you buy because you get all kinds of washed out looking or streaky prints unless you basically soak some sheets in alcohol before printing. I've had this problem on ACM and foam PVC. Unless a white ink system is must have I'd shop around if you just need a fast board printer. IMO the pros of latex don't yet outweigh the cons on boards. I'm happy to hear some disagreement and/or solutions.

I was looking for a hybrid printer to replace my HP FB500 and also looked at the R2000 as it came down to that one and the Agfa H2500i LED. I picked the Agfa and couldn't be happier. It prints well on every substrate.

 

[Brian Tickenoff]

I've had an R2000 a few years now and I regret it. Even with overcoat, aluminum and acm scratch way too easy imo. .040 aluminum and styrene are still a pain in the ass to print on despite what the sales people say. Good luck finding the right heat settings that don't cause the boards to warp and head strike yet still fully cures and dries the ink. Also with latex you have the added issue of needing to be super picky about which brands of boards you buy because you get all kinds of washed out looking or streaky prints unless you basically soak some sheets in alcohol before printing. I've had this problem on ACM and foam PVC. Unless a white ink system is must have I'd shop around if you just need a fast board printer. IMO the pros of latex don't yet outweigh the cons on boards. I'm happy to hear some disagreement and/or solutions.

I'm kinda there too, Terrance. It's slow, it's expensive, it bands in lower pass counts (6 and under), takes forever to start up and to start printing. It uses a boatload of ink and is by far the most expensive per sq ft cost (ink wise) of all our presses.
That being said, we do some pretty cool work on it and it's nice to have in our arsenal. But we could defiantly survive without it.

 

[hand851]

Does anyone have the service manual for R1000?

 

[johnnysigns]

We've had many, many ups and downs with our R2000 too. When it's working, it generally works well. The time needed to print based on media selection is a pain in the butt. The fragility of the inks is also a big problem. Overall we've been happy when the printer isn't having problems. When running white this thing drinks ink up. It's a joy to take the white heads out and store them for full color work, but you've definitely got to recalibrate them if you're doing anything with accuracy. We find now that if we're needing to overflood prints with white, we're opting for using vinyl instead of printing white. A 3ltr cart of white is easy to run through in a day or less if you're printing heavy coverage. I spent the last two days of my life building a good working media mode for chrome vinyl as there's nothing really available that worked for our application. The canned profiles leave a lot to be desired for my client base. I've built more profiles than I care to admit to get good color output. Monthly head alignments are now part of our workflow. The inks are very flat so lamination looks excellent immediately. That's kind of a moot point as UV laminated prints end up looking excellent in a week or so if you've got silvering. Ink flexibility is another good quality, but it comes at the expense of durability if you're installing and/or handling unlaminated prints. UV printed vinyl you can install w/out much incident that you're going to scratch up the prints, but with the latex you're definitely scratching your print if you don't laminate.

 

[95bird]

Looking at adding a flatbed to our business right now. It’s down to R1000 or Mimaki JFX200 2513EX. We have a HP700W latex R to R already and love HP latex technology but I have concerns with with scratching/durability on the R1000. We do a bit of everything in our shop, coro, acm, sintra, packing and mounting 2000-3000+ feet of vinyl per month is becoming time consuming and costly. Anyone get a R1000 and wish you went UV or vice versa? Right now I’m leaning more to Mimaki as I feel like we could do more overall with it and print durability is high on my list. Space is very tight and I think the Mimaki had the end there as well.

Thoughts?

 

[Tessellate]

Hope someone can lend a hand here as we are having issues with two medias on our r1000.

22”x28” coroplast - we keep getting head strikes as the boards start to curl. Not enough to hit the crash sensor but the carriage will scratch the back 1” as most of the board is allready in the cure. Can someone post their full settings for us to copy and test?

220gsm paper. We are having issues were this material will tunnel in the center or lift on the edge. Possible for someone to chime in here? Lower or increase vacuum - tension? Not sure the best approach. Anyone have a paper setting that works?

Thank you!

 

[JRF]

Hope someone can lend a hand here as we are having issues with two medias on our r1000.

22”x28” coroplast - we keep getting head strikes as the boards start to curl. Not enough to hit the crash sensor but the carriage will scratch the back 1” as most of the board is allready in the cure. Can someone post their full settings for us to copy and test?

220gsm paper. We are having issues were this material will tunnel in the center or lift on the edge. Possible for someone to chime in here? Lower or increase vacuum - tension? Not sure the best approach. Anyone have a paper setting that works?

Thank you!

This is what we use on the R2000 (Printing 4x8 coroplast boards horizontally):
4pass 90 - 750 vacuum on everything
For the 4 pass profile we have 149f drying, Drying airflow pressure 40, curing temp 167f, curing airflow 430 and curing height 0.98

 

[cb2804]

Our R1000 keeps throwing out a crash sensor error, even though there's no media loaded. I've ran the scan axis diagnostics with app but the crash sensor passing. It's odd since there isn't any media loaded but it keeps crashing.

Any help would be more than appreciated, we're dead in the water at this point.

 

[arcturus01]

Hi
I have a climate question.

This is my fist summer with the R1000. How do you keep the print room cool while running the printer?
Our office is on a mezzanine above the print area. The AC just does not seem to keep up.

Do you have a beefy AC or have some kind of fume extractor above the machine to pull heat out of the room?

Thanks

 

[JRF]

Our R1000 keeps throwing out a crash sensor error, even though there's no media loaded. I've ran the scan axis diagnostics with app but the crash sensor passing. It's odd since there isn't any media loaded but it keeps crashing.

Any help would be more than appreciated, we're dead in the water at this point.

Check the spittoon foam on the left side is not raised.

 

[arcturus01]

Check the spittoon foam on the left side is not raised.

also that the left wiper is fully seated on its lifter.