• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

jv3 160sp heads not firing

artbot

New Member
instead of replying in the box at the bottom of the thread, click the "go advanced" button. there will be an attachment "paper clip" button. keep them small though. there is an 800 pixel limit.
 

humpsigns

New Member
Thanks that was driving me nuts..But this is what Iam getting on test print no cyan or yellow at all. Have new cap on capping station,didn't replace the station just caps...have not replace pumps yet
 

Attachments

  • test print.jpg
    test print.jpg
    1.6 KB · Views: 105

humpsigns

New Member
bad pic Ill try again bigger if not Ill take a pic tomorrow out side in the day light
 

Attachments

  • test print.jpg
    test print.jpg
    11.9 KB · Views: 120

artbot

New Member
it was hard to tell with the photo what channel was what. just a cap top change out is fine enough to diagnose whether things are working or not. did you do the quiet room listen for hissing air noise? the ink supply will make noise when it is leaking. also, as far as seal, you can have a partner push up temporarily on the bottom of the capping station to really force a seal, and then pull at the waste line. if it seems that one pump is working and one is not. you can do a pump tube swap, and let the "good" pump pull on one or both foreign lines. just switch to the opposite pump if doing a head clean.

when things get odd it's usually good to itemize in a list what you did and what from that you know it can't be. there will be tons of print shops on line tomorrow and the clearer things are to follow, the better. have the empty spaces ever come and gone? that is important. to me, it looks like the printer ran out of ink on a few sides. we know that's not it. if a blank side comes and goes. that's data. don't worry about ink supply. if a blank side gets some lines or portions here and there. that's mechanical. before you can "know" what it is you have to know what it isn't. and never look there again. btw. i'm up all night finishing a project that is due tomorrow. i had an encoder sensor go out friday which bumped this thing into the impossible zone.
 

humpsigns

New Member
Iam going to have to get more ink so Iam going to order some pumps...planning on keeping printer until the paint fall off it if I can get it back printing. Ill well try to listen for the hissing today when I finish work.Have small roland sp 300v to keep me going.Good luck with your project,I know all about the all night projects.Its 2:20 here Iam going to give it up for today and try to get a little sleep.THANK FOR THE HELP,RANDY!!!!
 

artbot

New Member
don't buy pumps! all you need is to replace the little tube inside the pump. (really if you flush the snot out of the pump you rarely need to take it apart ever). but the inner tube can get a flat spot in it after a few years. it's not the pumps. if it's clogged you feel resistance when the carriage is away from the caps. if so, have a partner squirt cleaning solution into the caps, while you on the other side syringe aggressively at the other end. the thing is, a bad pump can't cause this issue. each side of the pump pulls on a single head. the pump can't isolate in that way. bad pump means the entire head has bad pumping. so save your money on that one.
 

humpsigns

New Member
Well did data swap and the new head fired on all cables the black just changed to other side or channel. So that means all the heads I got from digiprint were no good.Plus black has lots of overspray,Still nothing out of cyan and yellow.Like I said they sent me one that had a part moving on the inside..it rattled every time you would move it.I always heard good thing about digi. I must be the one they needed to unload them on ...well just have to laugh it off and keep on rolling
 

humpsigns

New Member
oh yea..the new head must of been vapor locked because its printing great right now,never would of figured that one...thanks artbot & sightline
 

artbot

New Member
i'm so fried from this last order i can't think straight. so... sorry if this is a stupid question. is the printer working now? are you getting another head?
 

humpsigns

New Member
Looks like Iam going to have to replace all three heads from digi. Did data swap and new head fired on all cables. black just changed side -channels and cyan-yellow nothing. That was 4 heads from digiprint that was no good amazing. They sent me water base heads by mistake and told me to just change manifold and I would be fine.One had a part loose inside they keep giving me the run around about it. Waited 4 days for tech to call after 50 emails, so I sent it back to main headquarters,They didn't like that at all.Did have the 3 heads firing for a little while, but test print was not the same every time,printing in different line formation .Most people say that water and eco are the same just have to change manifold, I believe I would have to disagree on that for now until someone proves me wrong.So watch out for digiprint...Iam sure they dont do this to everybody or they wouldn't stay in business.So new heads one more time.dang!
 

artbot

New Member
no water and eco are exactly the same. i just put an epson 10000 head in my jv3. get this it had three stickers on it. top sticker epson rank, next sticker roland rank, next sticker below that mimaki rank. also the head had this nice little no drip gasket protecting the inside of the wiring (something they don't do for solvent "everyone else heads". if you didn't purge the fluid out of the head properly then that head was dead before it ever had a chance. if water gets mixed with solvent ink it will coagulate immediately clogging the head. i've had a head with the rattley thing before seemed to do okay. so you are out a ton of money? are they giving you a break on a replacement?
 

humpsigns

New Member
No break and they did not tell me to purge heads and I ask them if I should flush them with cleaning fluid and they said no just put them on. But I have clean them since and Iam getting a go stream of fluid coming out like they aren't clogged.What would make black change side..channels on data swap.Tried to put rank numbers in but they would not stay dialed in????
 

humpsigns

New Member
Was getting error 07 on rattled head. I dont know but the new head I just bought Is working great so far. The digi heads had 3 stickers too, but all the numbers were the same top, middle and bottom.New head no rank numbers
 

artbot

New Member
that is some real bad advice, also, if it's a water based head, remember that the print head manifold will melt like chewing gum over time. so they sent you waterbased heads, told you "don't bother purging them" (all dx4's have a water based test fluid in them both solvent and aqueous), and they didn't tell you to change out the print head manifold? or did they do that at the shop before it was sent out?

that change sides data swap action is certainly odd. that could only mean that the head is haveing electronic issues or your cable is bad and during the data swap you put the "good cable" on the opposite print head port.

you've had a hell of an expensive week. you are taking this a lot calmer than i would.
 

humpsigns

New Member
They told me to change manifold,that they sold me but not to purge..just put on and start to print.So after I clean them and good stream of spray is coming out are they still clogged? I will try another cable but the one I have on it is new and worked great on data swap???So on new heads what would be the right chemical to use on purge if solvent clogs them?
 

artbot

New Member
that's a complex question. when you "clean" the head to the point that you see that pretty fine parallel spray coming out, many times, in order to achieve that spray, the head is being damaged. so you have clogged head, cleaned out by high pressure purges, now that it's cleaned out it's sustained mechanical damage. i've messes up quite a few heads cleaning them. and in retrospect if i'd stopped short of wanting to see that stream so perfect, i think i would have had a working head in the end.

the head is full of soapy water. glycol ethers and acetone are both miscible in water. i like to use straight carbitol (one could use cleaning solution). i don't know why there is a special fluid designated for purging. i figure it's the same stuff with possibly more humectant to bridge and pull out the most possible water from every tiniest spot. in general if you get a perfect stream, you should be getting no deflected or missing nozzles... that is if they can fire properly after being over pressured.

one piece of advice i received once is when cleaning out waterbased heads to a little stronger with the pressure and go much longer. this goes against my theory that the water based and the solvent based head has the same solution in them. but it's what someone else believes to be true.

the data issue doesn't make sense. maybe something will come up to explain it other than a faulty head. but nothing so far.
 

humpsigns

New Member
I hear about the pressure thing so I didn't put too much on it I think, but kind of heavy handed like striping screws, making sure they want fall out .So how about cleaning solution on the electronic on head .If you get some on it rinse with alcohol and let dry for 24 hours right?
 

artbot

New Member
yeah. as odd as it may seem, dunk it in alcohol swish it around and then (i whip it dry a few times) lay it on a paper towel and let it sit. maybe even put a small fan near it. i wish i'd done that a few times. i might not have gotten an error 07 after cleaning a head perfectly recovered. but plugged in to get an error 07 due to latent cleaning solution.
 
Top