Latex ink for your Roland, Mutoh, Mimaki

[artbot]

the heating is one issue that i was wondering about. there is no way you can heat a board at s single point with out aggressive warping. when i heard "heated table", i figured that might work. but i can only assume you would need to preheat the sheet for a long period until you have some unified heat distribution and then you'll still need a very powerful vacuum. on my jv3 flatbed, i run no heat at all and use a receptive layer of CAB lacquer. any heat at all across the y and you'll get a head crash.

 

[iladi]

There is no vacuum. Only a glass table. Heaters are made from some long IR tubes. It was difficult to print on 2 mm pvc board. Actualy is was hard to remove the double side tape. Maybe i was using to much heat. Experiment will be my midle name. The thicker the board is, the easier to print. The manual recomends 30 seconds of preheating before the print begins.

 

[artbot]

if you have the table height, just build an accessory vacuum platen. you might just be able to get away with a lid that has a seal that sticks to the glass. the glass would act as great zero flat bottom. i'd make it out of aluminum covered with ceramic fiber board/paper, with hardwood sides, and a very soft gasket on the bottom. suck the air out with either a small shop vac or something more industrial. but do a $30 shop vac first to just see the process working.

 

[iladi]

some pics. prints look better in reality, i'm not an expert photo and pics are taken with my phone.

low rez print on PVC board, hi rez print on white plexi, normal print on aluminium.

 

[jhanson]

As far as the maintenance goes with printers running SEPIAX, this was my experience with running and maintaining several printers with that ink:

- SEPIAX won't clog in the heads like solvent inks will, meaning that a machine can be turned off for up to a month without flushing, and it only takes a few cleaning cycles to bring the machine back to normal afterward.

- The recommended daily maintenance is due to the thickness of the SEPIAX pigmented resins. If daily maintenance is not followed, thick sludge will build up on the wipers, caps, and around the head. The same thing happens with all types of ink, but it's just more exaggerated here.

- While the SEPIAX ink contains very small amounts of co-solvent (less than 10% in my understanding) and will not attack plastics, the cleaning conditioners contain higher concentrations (to be able to break up the resins) and may soften or etch non-solvent resistant plastics such as ABS when used frequently.

 

[iladi]

just spoke with the dealer. he told me the inks are made in japan (he saw the papers at the croatian producer of the printer), it may be made by dupont (but not 100% shure) and it is a waterbased ink. anyway, local azon dealer has a non white dts and he told me that since october last year it is still on first set of ink, despite printing each day.

 

[Proximus]

Bordeaux announced Latex ink for solvent printers with DX printheads:

http://www.c-m-y-k.com/raises-the-bar/

 

[Proximus]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amktR0sctmQ video from fespa

http://www.c-m-y-k.com/product/eden-lx/ packaging

http://www.c-m-y-k.com/download/product/eden_lx/Bordeaux TDS_EDEN LX(EDLX).pdf docs

http://www.c-m-y-k.com/download/product/eden_lx/EDEN LX - Product leaflet.pdf

 

[sydpos]

bordeaux eden lx edlx latex ink for DX printheads

I am interested to know any first hand experiences with bordeaux's newish latex ink, especially if you have run it on a VJ1614


thanks
Adrian