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Mimaki UCJV300-160 patchy printing
- Thread starter adsababy
- Start date
I am having the same issue with mine as well. I know for a fact that some of the issues people are having is due to a cable issue in the printer. This is an issue Mimaki is aware of but not fixing it unless you are having certain “issues” with the printer. Mine was replace with a new shielded cable. It did not fix my problem but I’m sure some of you could benefit from it.
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Nicky Zhou
PrintLinks
After reading the posts, I just have some different idea except the air pressure or ink starvation isssues on that..
In fact, we have been facing similiar issues before, we definite it as a banding issues related with Ink droping precision and ink spread on the substrates; The first dots drop precision, that is related with the motion vibration, we changed one Energy Chain from suggestion of Iguis, that make a better result , not 100% remove the banding on the spot color , light color and dark color. The next step is change the UV lamp specification with the lamp supplier, as the lamp curing will effect the ink spread and the ink curing at the same time. The better the ink spread, the less the banding it is. The time or the curing will give the ink dots a different vision of effection, so need a different power on different inks. Expect the above 2 we do, another is the software data map .
Here you may try to lower a bit of your lamp power, it can be adjustable. and if you have 2 lamp, you can try with a post curing .
when you lower the carriage speed, or increase the passes, you can check how is the result.
In fact, we have been facing similiar issues before, we definite it as a banding issues related with Ink droping precision and ink spread on the substrates; The first dots drop precision, that is related with the motion vibration, we changed one Energy Chain from suggestion of Iguis, that make a better result , not 100% remove the banding on the spot color , light color and dark color. The next step is change the UV lamp specification with the lamp supplier, as the lamp curing will effect the ink spread and the ink curing at the same time. The better the ink spread, the less the banding it is. The time or the curing will give the ink dots a different vision of effection, so need a different power on different inks. Expect the above 2 we do, another is the software data map .
Here you may try to lower a bit of your lamp power, it can be adjustable. and if you have 2 lamp, you can try with a post curing .
when you lower the carriage speed, or increase the passes, you can check how is the result.
Retro Graphics
New Member
how often do you clean the print heads? like do a hard clean? are the inks current or are you using chips to run older expired inks?
I have witnessed that good bidirectional alignment (‘drop pos’) and feed comp are a necessity to get rid of banding. Once we had this type of banding in dark blue. Adjusting feed comp purely visually didn’t do the trick. What did work was printing a file that has two lines 280mm apart, and then painstakingly measuring with a ruler and magnifying glass and adjusting feed comp and printing again until it was exactly 280mm. Between each iteration of feed comp value, the banding frequency changed. We ended up at feed comp 40 for vinyl.
Hi all, i started to have the patchy print too and it's getting obvious when using 600 x 600 16 pass.
It's strange that 300 x 900 12 pass is better then 600 x 600 16 pass.
Just bought the printer on Jan 2022 and already informed the technician regarding this and till now they didn't have any solution for this yet.
Anyone got any idea on this?
It's strange that 300 x 900 12 pass is better then 600 x 600 16 pass.
Just bought the printer on Jan 2022 and already informed the technician regarding this and till now they didn't have any solution for this yet.
Anyone got any idea on this?
Your prompt response would be highly appreciated. Thanks!
Attachments
Hi All,
Glad I found this as I have the same issue's with my UCJV300-160. Solid colours print with blemishes, tone jumps (whatever you want to call them) and then issue with the film slightly lifting between pinch rollers and the vacuum then getting these weird darker tone marks. Not sure what the fix is. uni direction? higher res? nozzle test is 100% fine.
What did you guys do to fix??
Regards
Glad I found this as I have the same issue's with my UCJV300-160. Solid colours print with blemishes, tone jumps (whatever you want to call them) and then issue with the film slightly lifting between pinch rollers and the vacuum then getting these weird darker tone marks. Not sure what the fix is. uni direction? higher res? nozzle test is 100% fine.
What did you guys do to fix??
Regards
I think its a vacuum and pinch roller issue. The machine needs more pinch rollers because its creating lifted areas where there is no pinch roller (hope that makes sense). On my machine I get heaps of patchy printing in dark solid colours, assuming everyone else notices that too. I almost cringe when I need to print them the only thing I can think to do is over laminting with matte laminate which hides some imperfections. Does anyone know if more pinch rollers can be added or is there a way to add a better vacuum?
Hello I get the same thing happening in mine it seems the pinch rollers are creating a ripple in the film and when the print head travels across the film it cures with those imperfections. Do you know how to fix the issue??
Retro Graphics
New Member
could that be the humidity in your shop causing the paper backing to ripple? I know I have a roll of Perf that is on some shitty paper backing and I can't do a white layer b/c if it sits to long rolled out the perf vinyl starts rippling away from the paper. In my case I think it's the cheap perf vinyl I bought. I have seen paper backing ripple during masking when the humidity is high though, so just a random thought as well. I also had a day I was printing and it was like 90 degrees and the humidity was permeating the house, All my colors were not only printing off but I was having some a lot of banding then too I noticed. I literally just remembered that job while typing this because I had to reprint 2 out of a 3 piece hood wrap b/c the colors didn't match up. Wasn't using any blue on the job but the reds and yellows were coming out weird too. So yeah def, check your humidity as well.
The weather here is very cold, bad for printing. I have re-checked all my settings but warmed the room up to 25 degrees Celsius, bought the pinch rollers closer together and started to reprint the job, looks better so far! fingers crossed I did not jinx it. Will let you know of the outcome!!
The weather here is very cold, bad for printing. I have re-checked all my settings but warmed the room up to 25 degrees Celsius, bought the pinch rollers closer together and started to reprint the job, looks better so far! fingers crossed I did not jinx it. Will let you know of the outcome!!
Hi, I have been playing with my machine a lot to fix this issue and i think i have come to a solution. make sure your room is 25 degrees and make sure the pinch rollers are not too far apart. 600x600 should be fine but check your feed comp, drop pos etc and adjust. also dont print on the media straight away take it out of the box and let it get to room temp
Hi Albert Ma Can you send me the information Mimaki Australia sent you about this happening because no temp control. I am in Melbourne. thank you!!
Impact1
Wide Format Technical Solutions
You may want to verify the humidity levels in your shop are within the recommended range (35% to 55% is recommended). Also, if you take the back cover off on the ink bottle side their is a white 1l bottle connected to the air line. Make sure the bottle cap is screwed on tight. Last, if you are getting overflow, pressure and sub-tank errors I would check the air lines on the carriage side and make sure it doesn’t have ink in it via the sub-tank.
White Haus
Not a Newbie
If there is no ink temp control, why do we have to wait to print every time we send down a job?
TulsaScuba
New Member
Has anyone found this actual cause and solution for this issue? UCJV300-160 going on 2yrs old, now it doesn't want to print solid color without fade bands. Updated firmware, adjusted feed comp, adjusted droplets, air purge, vacuum set to strong. Did I miss anything? Humidity controlled print room 45-50%
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RonnyCrack
New Member
Been having similar issues with my clear ink on my UCJV300, where the first 2inches or so of the print are super thick gloss, and then it lays down a lighter layer/gives light banding in the clear ink and a less spectacular glossy look.