Printing on Canvas

[bob]

Hmmm, I wonder if it is that the solvent print is more durable in terms of UV exposure.

Do you coat 'em after they're wrapped?

Before.

 

[ProWraps]

coscto does a 20"x30" stretched on a frame ready to mount for $69.99.

the woman that did our baby pics wants $1300 for a 20"x30". no joke. 5"x7" prints are $45. ugh.

im bought a roll of 54" to do my own on my mutohs.

ill decide to use costco.

 

[Atomic DNA]

I've been printing/wrapping canvas for a few years now and I can definitely say that there does need to be a clear coat applied for abrasion resistance. I print from a Versacam as well and even though the ink is solvent doesn't mean it is bulletproof. I use a 2K automotive clear applied via HVLP spray gun.....after stretching.

And yes, the printing of canvas is HEAVILY saturated. Sams, Walmart, CVS, Walgreens, etc are all in on the act. The ability to customize, add artistic brushstrokes and same or next day service is what makes me able to charge what I charge.

 

[Colin]

If I wanted to use a spray-bomb clear over my solvent printed canvas, what kind, and possibly what brand?

 

[bob]

If I wanted to use a spray-bomb clear over my solvent printed canvas, what kind, and possibly what brand?

I use Clear Shield original formula satin. Thin it to the consistency of whole milk and apply it with a 4" foam brush. With not quite a dry brush. Takes less than 5 minute from start through cleanup.

Most, if not all, clear coats in spray cans are solvent based. While you can get away with it, using a water based clear coat is the proper way.

 

[Tony Q's Kidd]

best way to date to seal any canvas is rabbit liver. they used that method for a looooooong time and today is till the most effective.
but being realistic just clear coat it

 

[J Hill Designs]

flopsy?!? ... mopsy?!? ... COTTONTAIL?!?!?!

noooooooooooo

 

[Tony Q's Kidd]

buttons served his purpose.....he will be missed

 

[sfr table hockey]

You know....... doing that you are guaranteed getting a hare stuck in your print...........

 

[Stan B]

Hi guys great topic thanks for keeping it going. Question - without putting your existing equipment situation - wouldn't water based 8 color Epson be visually noticeably superior for canvas prints? Since it has to be clear coated anyways, it seems that finer water based dot, superior Epson fine print technology and 8 color ink set would blow the socks off of solvent / Eco solvent prints?

 

[sfr table hockey]

Hi guys great topic thanks for keeping it going. Question - without putting your existing equipment situation - wouldn't water based 8 color Epson be visually noticeably superior for canvas prints? Since it has to be clear coated anyways, it seems that finer water based dot, superior Epson fine print technology and 8 color ink set would blow the socks off of solvent / Eco solvent prints?

If you have the chance to run both waterbase and solvent with the same print you would notice quite easily that waterbased pigment (not dye) has much brighter and better color than solvent. However I think they may be bringing out better canvas for solvent and getting good results. I have only seen a latex printed canvas once and it looked quite good but again no side by side like I have with solvent.

Next question would be if you only had one printer what could you do better at overall......I think you can do way more with a solvent printer (as far as making money) than you could with just waterbased due to higher ink and media costs. So the trade off with solvent for canvas may be worth it in order to be able to do all the other outdoor stuff. If you can do both, like I am doing, you kind of get the best of both worlds. Although like has been said, the art side of things is not that great for making money compared to banner printing for example, unless you can be the photo guy selling the $500 canvas with his print package. My picture framing business goes hand in hand with the art work printing so it works well for me and when that is slow the sign side has always something to do.

 

[Colin]

I use Clear Shield original formula satin. Thin it to the consistency of whole milk and apply it with a 4" foam brush. With not quite a dry brush. Takes less than 5 minute from start through cleanup.

Thanks for this tip. Just got a quart, but boy it's expensive....$55.00 for a quart!!! What is this....liquid gold?

bob, You mentioned thinning it, but it says to use it straight up. Why did you thin it?

It also instructs to use a foam roller; wouldn't that be better than a foam brush?

 

[J Hill Designs]

thin with water...foam brush works fabulous

oh why not with what...It seems that it flows out to dry better thin...

my mix is approx. 1:1

 

[TyrantDesigner]

Thanks for this tip. Just got a quart, but boy it's expensive....$55.00 for a quart!!! What is this....liquid gold?

bob, You mentioned thinning it, but it says to use it straight up. Why did you thin it?

It also instructs to use a foam roller; wouldn't that be better than a foam brush?

foam brush drags against the surface, foam roller touches then lifts off without dragging.

 

[Colin]

foam brush drags against the surface, foam roller touches then lifts off without dragging.

Which in my mind makes the roller a better option....correct?

 

[J Hill Designs]

will create bubbles/texture during lift-off

 

[Colin]

Just did four 20" x 30" canvas prints. Interesting stuff to work with, as in nice and easy. I can see that the quart will go a long way.

What might be some other uses for this liquid laminate? Occasionally I'll have a Print-Lam-Cut decal job which has enough fine detail to it that trying to cut through the lam & vinyl doesn't work very well. Could one cover such digital print decals with this stuff and then do a contour cut?

 

[bob]

Just did four 20" x 30" canvas prints. Interesting stuff to work with, as in nice and easy. I can see that the quart will go a long way.

What might be some other uses for this liquid laminate? Occasionally I'll have a Print-Lam-Cut decal job which has enough fine detail to it that trying to cut through the lam & vinyl doesn't work very well. Could one cover such digital print decals with this stuff and then do a contour cut?

Absolutely.

I use it to coat most everything printed that isn't actually laminated. The stuff is tougher than you'd think. I find it especially useful on printed banners, it gives them a reasonable abrasion resistance and adds a bit of depth to the colors. I generally keep a gallon of original formula gloss as well as satin on hand. Each lasts me about a year.

As far as the gloss vice satin, Clear Shield is pretty much a chameleon in this regard in that it seems to take on the attributes of what media to which it's applied. Gloss Clear Shield does not make matte media glossy, just a little less matte. Likewise, satin Clear Shield merely makes gloss media a little less glossy.

 

[Colin]

Thanks bob. I'll have to do some experimenting. How long does it take to cure before attempting cutting?

 

[bob]

Thanks bob. I'll have to do some experimenting. How long does it take to cure before attempting cutting?

Depends on a lot of factors. Once it's dry to the touch, however long that takes in your environment, you can cut it. Clear Shield dries to the touch pretty fast but will still give you some drag if you glide a finger tip across it. Once a fingertip has no drag on it, it's as cured as it's going to get. You don't have to wait for that moment to cut it, merely dry to the touch is sufficient.