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Recently repainted truck...

mopar691

New Member
Ah yes. Painted quite a few. Owned a auto body and Hot Rod shop for 10+ years specializing in 32-34 Fords. When the insurance work was slow built alot of cars. Lost all its wheels shortly after 9-11. The market fell out and was to flooded.

And yes, wax on UNCURED clear is very bad. Thanks for clarifying that for others. I was to generic.
 

OldPaint

New Member
DOT numbers are REQUIRED to operate the truck on the road, or the owner will get hit with fines FOR NOT HAVING THEM ON THE TRUCK!!!! i have on client who got fined in fl for not having them on 1 truck and the fine was $750.00!!!!!
1st off i would have a converstion with the BODY SHOP. 2nd handed info is never reliable. not many paint with standard enamel anymore. most are acrylic enamel or urathane, which can be recoated or covered in 72 hours.
they can tell you WHAT THEY PUT ON THE TRUCK for paint, hardner etc.
2" VINLY LETTERS DOT #'s on the bottom of the door, wont stop outgasing. now laying down a 3" x 30" SOLID STRIP OF PRINTED VINYL......might cause a problem.
 

Border

New Member
:thread

Mopar dude, after seeing your username...
-My '67 Barracuda on Grand Ave. Wish I still had her.
There, I'm done now, sorry for the hijack!
 

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TyrantDesigner

Art! Hot and fresh.
I'm willing to bet you the reason they told you that is the same reason most sign people will tell you that.....they heard it from somebody, who heard it from somebody, who heard it from somebody who just made it up because it sounded good. Might have made sense 40 years ago....paint has changed a whole lot since then.

Happened to me ... a customer needed to get his vehicle re-lettered after being in an accident (new panels) ... asked if they baked the paint or waited at least 2 weeks (or both) so I can letter it ... body shop themselves said yes (I still think they were lying). ... paint lifted right off ... Idiots didn't sand the old paint at all ... just sprayed on the red ... lifted off everything under that transfer tape. Luckily I had a new paint waiver signed. baaaadd stuff.
 

Si Allen

New Member
I am surprised that Old paint didn't bring up the fact that it is possible to grab a can of 1Shot paint and a lettering brush and do the job with no problems!


:goodpost:
 

Poconopete

New Member
Body shops have been slapping decals on cars in 1-3 days for many years. They were not waiting 30 days to slap the bird on trans am hoods in the 70's nor do they wait now.
For the real deal find out the paint manufacturer and ask them- here's one example:

DuPont™ ChromaClear® HC-7776S™ Multi-Mix Snap Dry
Clearcoat
Flash/Dry Times

Air Dry
Flash between Coats: 3-5 minutes.
Dust Free: 8-10 minutes
Time to Handle (Assemble): 2 hours.
Time to Polish: 2 hours.
Time to Stripe: 2 hours.
Time to Deliver: 2 hours.
Time to Decal: After 24 hours.

Force Dry
Flash between Coats: 3-5 minutes.
Cycle Time 15 minutes @140° F
Dust Free: At cool down
Time to Handle (Assemble): 30 minutes after cool down.
Time to Polish: 30 minutes after cool down.
Time to Stripe: 30 minutes after cool down.
Time to Deliver: 2 hours.
Time to Decal: 24 hours.
 

S'N'S

New Member
I worked in a panel shop and if its oven dried we would do the graphics an hour or two later, if sun dried we would leave it for a day or two and NEVER had a problem, but that is all 2pac paint. If it's done in just enamel (without hardener) may be a different story. 30 days is a load of crap, the panel shop obviously isn't very confident in their paint job preparation.
I still do all the local panel shops here and I usually apply same day or next, I also only use low - med tack transfer tape, if your at all worried the transfer tape will remove paint, wet it down before removal.
 
J

john1

Guest
the waiting period is a hoax, if the paint job has been baked and has set 24 hours it's good to go.

I been doing stripes and various vehicle graphics for a body shop now for over 6 years and always wait 1 day after it's been baked and then i apply.
 

OldPaint

New Member
the OP cant do that so why even bring it up???? this is ABOUT how most now in the business dont know about automotive paint. its a related field, and like a lot of the old painters i know, most of us......ARE AQUAINTED WITH AUTOMOTIVE PAINT. ive dona my share of body & fender work. also i worked at NAPA, for 15 years as an outside salesman(selling to body shops and paint was my specialty)was sent to MARTIN-SENOUR PAINT SCHOOL, so i knew the products i sold. this question came up often, from the body shops. i get vehicles here with a bad paint on doors, i can make money repainting them BEFORE i do the lettering. i also use automotive paint on MDO, ALUMICORE, MAXMETAL if i need a specific colored background. dont matter if iam hand painting or vinyl on it, i know WHEN I PAINT IT...there will be no peeling or problems.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Ya know, the OP, or anyone else lettering re-paints are gonna do what they wanna do.

There are so many variables going on here, that I think most of us are saying..... to be safe....... wait. Getting something signed and then having an accident will still get that horrible reaction in the pit of your stomach, even if the owner says, no big deal. You still, as a professional, ruined someone else's equipment.

From not knowing what the paint shop really did as far as paint composition to baking it, to the owner saying give me a cheap job to maybe it wasn't prepped correctly or overspray is involved... so many conditions will make the final step fail or pass.

I saw years ago a guy in a shop where I was working using tape top and bottom for his flats on a baked on job. The truck was a large flatbed cement hauler with a huge crane on the back.

He started out by pouncing the copy and logo on both doors. Then he went back and put the tape on all the flats leaving the rounds open. He then lettered the first color on both doors. Went back to do the second color of the driver's door. When the second color was on both doors, he proceeded to take the tape off of the first color. Pulled the new paint off like it was meant to. He had, I believe it was red poking through a yellow-orangish new paint job. It looked horrible. I remember hearing the swearing and yelling and throwing chit around and knew instantly what had happened. After walking over, I knew why an old-timer had told me long ago, not to use tape as a crutch. Finish off your own letters and don't rely on tape. He'd always say something like real signpainters, don't use tape.

Many painters used the tape top and bottom method to speed things up, but it was really unsafe to to on re-paints. For the OP here, do as you see fit or are instructed to do, but make dead certain, you get those numbers on precisely where they're supposed to go, cause if you pull them to re-position them, you could very well be up that famous creek without the proverbial paddle.
 

TyrantDesigner

Art! Hot and fresh.
Not all paint jobs are baked!!!

+1 ... some don't even use automotive paint ... encountered 2 this last year where they put house paint on a vehicle ... and about 12 that considered spray paint an acceptable paint for a vehicle (one was even primer on an unsanded vehicle.
 

the graphics co

New Member
FYI, out gassing has nothing to do with baking the paint job. It is related to the chemicals compounds that are in the paint materials themselves. Curing is not a myth, it is a real thing. The ONLY way to cure a paint job in less than 30-45 days is with an IR Light (infra-red heat lamp), that is information directly from Akzo-Nobel/Sikkens, they are an automotive paint manufacturer. If you use an IR Light, you can cure roughly one panel on a vehicle in an hour, even distribution of the light is important, so if it is a large panel you will have to do it in sections or use more than one light. 1 Hour per section with the IR light will cure the paint from the base coat out to the clear coat, basically from the inside out. So if you are under the impression that baking the vehicle, or leaving it in the sun is going to properly cure your paint job for you, you are wrong. If you are still unsure, call the paint manufacturer. And if you are dealing with a reputable body shop, they will tell you not to apply wax for 30-45 days for the exact same reason you cannot apply decals, out gassing will cause bubbling, the paint will fail and both you and the body shop will have an unhappy customer.

For those who have applied decals before the paint has cured and had no failures, you are lucky. Have you tried removing those decals since installation? Chances are you will be bringing the paint with it.

-Cameron
 
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