Removing large vinyl from light up sign

[VicoDrive]

Sounds like you've jumped in to an area you have zero expertise. I'd send the job off to a sign company.

Like I said before, we are a printing company that pretty much got stuck with sign making equipment and Im the one trying to figure everything out so it can be added to our services

 

[VicoDrive]

That's a weird a$$ frame! Looks like steel almost.

No, its plastic. Seems like its officially called a "Trim Cap"

 

[J Hill Designs]

lexan is polycarbonate - dont use it with trimcap, which is acrylic

use acrylic sheet
cut shape
place face-down
wrap trim-cap around it, holding it in place with (nails, magnets, weights, etc) [make sure the lip of the trim cap is under the edge of the acrylic]
apply weld-on 4 (thin) with the applicator bottle
once dry (less than an hour) apply a bead of weld-on 16 (thick) to the corner where acrylic/trim-cap meet
dry overnight
flip over, apply graphics, install

edit: video

[video=youtube;SoMFMc-MibM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoMFMc-MibM[/video]

 

[DesireeM]

Looks like Im learning something here I see trim caps on Harbor Sales, I think I could do something like this. Just not clear about attaching it. I see you say use Weldon 4 and 16 (is it one or both?). Their description says, "Acrylic Weldon #4 or #16, Acrylic Methylene Chloride and Acrylic Weldon #40 for Lexan.". It almost sounds like its saying I have to use all of these, and what is Lexan?

Lexan is a lot like acrylic or plexi....except it's stronger. We often use it for extremely large sign faces (so that it doesn't crack or break under it's own weight during fabrication and installation) or in cases where impact resistance is needed. (Like at the local arena or "bad" areas of town)

It is also, as you might imagine, more expensive.

 

[MikePro]

we've used lexan with trim cap on random projects in the past... weld-on does not work, however.
gotta beef-up your adhesive to an epoxy. We use Lord's, but which one evades my mind at the moment.

 

[VicoDrive]

lexan is polycarbonate - dont use it with trimcap, which is acrylic

use acrylic sheet
cut shape
place face-down
wrap trim-cap around it, holding it in place with (nails, magnets, weights, etc) [make sure the lip of the trim cap is under the edge of the acrylic]
apply weld-on 4 (thin) with the applicator bottle
once dry (less than an hour) apply a bead of weld-on 16 (thick) to the corner where acrylic/trim-cap meet
dry overnight
flip over, apply graphics, install

edit: video

[video=youtube;SoMFMc-MibM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoMFMc-MibM[/video]

Gotta love youtube! I think I see whats going on, I think mine would be a lot less complex than what this guy is using since its just a long capsule shaped. Probably a good shape for a first time attempt, thanks

 

[VicoDrive]

I dunno it looked like it was rusting away at first glance. Carry on...

Dunno, maybe rust or something from the light box it came off of

 

[Billct2]

Rust from the screws and dirt/mold on the bottom edge

 

[VicoDrive]

Im getting all the pricing together for the supplies to make one from scratch. Just realized that the vinyl letters will be in reverse...letters are white, the background will be the color. So in this case, it would be best to apply the vinyl first before applying the trim cap, correct?

 

[Techman]

be sure you charge the right amount.

Wholesale letters like that go int 80 bux each range wholesale.

 

[VicoDrive]

be sure you charge the right amount.

Wholesale letters like that go int 80 bux each range wholesale.

Not sure what you mean

 

[Marlene]

the time to learn is before taking a job, sorry. not knowing what trim cap is or the difference between polycarb and acrylic is pretty basic.

 

[VicoDrive]

the time to learn is before taking a job, sorry. not knowing what trim cap is or the difference between polycarb and acrylic is pretty basic.

agreed which is why im only getting everything straight for a quote right now, havent taken anything yet. Its also why im on Signs 101 and not Signs 102 ;-)

 

[IslandSignWorks]

Use a very light touch with a heat gun to soften the adhesive. Then peel back the vinyl and clean up any residual adhesive with a polar solvent like rubbing alcohol. Non-polar (petroleum-derived) solvents can cause some substrates to cloud over, so don't use them. Even if this is not readily apparent, this can change their optical properties which won't show up until the sign is lit up, probably on the pole after it's already installed.

Do NOT use paint thinner or mineral spirits like toluene, xylene, naphtha, or varsol - these are non-polar solvents. On an existing sign you never know what material they used underneath. Polar solvents are generally water-based and won't damage the substrate but will still soften the adhesive enough to clean it off. Even Goof Off, which is very popular in the US to remove adhesive, can cause clouding in some polymers.

If the substrate is so badly abraded that it needs to be wet sanded or buffed, it's not worth the labor to salvage it. Recycle it and replace. My supplier will cut 51x100 sheets of acrylic to any size I want, since I can't fit that size sheet in my van (I just have to buy the whole sheet and pay for cuts)

Good luck.

Greg

 

[S'N'S]

Vicodrive quoted Im getting all the pricing together for the supplies to make one from scratch. Just realized that the vinyl letters will be in reverse...letters are white, the background will be the color. So in this case, it would be best to apply the vinyl first before applying the trim cap, correct?


IF the ghosting isn't too visible, why not flood coat the face with the color with the lettering cut out showing the lettering as white. Being that your going a colored background I wouldn't think you'd notice any ghosting and on the lettering.

 

[Moze]

I have an existing translucent white sheet that inserts into a light box. Its really large and has a vinyl overlay with the letters cut out so they can be seen at night while showing color through the vinyl. The client wants to change this to say something else. The problem is that I am not sure how to remove it all easily. I have an eraser head that I use to remove decals from vehicles but is that the only way for something this large? Is there maybe something I can soak it in that could eat it away, paint thinner maybe?

Unless the trim cap appears to be brittle and breaking or the face is cracked, I would just clean the face and add new vinyl with the lettering weeded out. I doubt any ghosting will be visible. No need to make this harder than it needs to be.

 

[Brush Slinger]

It's not a large face. Ghosting should be minimal with it being in reverse. Just inform client before hand about it.. and give them the choice between reface and new face.

I'd toss it face up in the sun for a couple hours the rays will soften the glue and you can peel the old vinyl right off. Clean with alcohol, then Simple Green and again with alcohol. Rotate top to bottom... apply new graphic. Hang and get paid.