Mine was extremely slow when it was first setup. The installer insisted I run it on uni-directional and to not turn the head speed up. Since then, I have gone to printing in Bi-Directional at as high of a head speed as possible and the silver prints great still. I also print the cmyk at the same time as the silver. The white I don't do hardly any of so I can't give you any info on that. Still slow but much better than it was at first which was unbearable.
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Roland new launch VS640 !!!
- Thread starter kustom.printing
- Start date
TCBinaflash
New Member
Straight silver, correct? We tried standard mode UNI on the metallic Roland color chart and the metallics we're very weak when mixed with the cmyk ink set. We shifted it to HQ mode and the metallics popped.
I could see running straight silver faster, it dries very well.
The white on the other hand, painfully slow. I only see a use for it on small decals or heat transfer graphics, inititally. this is only day 2 with the machine for me.
DRamm76
New Member
I have been moving a fair amount of the VS-640's and FINALLY got one on my showroom floor to play around with it. Overall I do like the result of the Metallic Inks. Of the ones we sold, only two were setup to use the Metallic and White. It seems the biggest draw to this in my area is the DUAL CMYK setup, the 64" Print & Cut and the Price.
Those who are using the Metallic have a definite need for it. Especially for retail. It looks pretty sharp on apparel as well. If you have a pretty sharp sense of design and a great eye for detail, you're creativity can really bring in the bucks. However, with the speed and time it takes, I don't think you're going to see to many people shoot for Metallic printing on vehicle wraps LOL
If it's speed you are looking for with the Metallic, I'd go with the XC-540MT. The VS-640 has definitely sparked a LOT of interest as from what I hear from Roland, there are a LOT of units on backorder until at least June.
Again, many people who are interested in this Metallic & White printing are not even based in the Sign Industry so it would be interesting to see what direction this application performs best in.
Those who are using the Metallic have a definite need for it. Especially for retail. It looks pretty sharp on apparel as well. If you have a pretty sharp sense of design and a great eye for detail, you're creativity can really bring in the bucks. However, with the speed and time it takes, I don't think you're going to see to many people shoot for Metallic printing on vehicle wraps LOL
If it's speed you are looking for with the Metallic, I'd go with the XC-540MT. The VS-640 has definitely sparked a LOT of interest as from what I hear from Roland, there are a LOT of units on backorder until at least June.
Again, many people who are interested in this Metallic & White printing are not even based in the Sign Industry so it would be interesting to see what direction this application performs best in.
TCBinaflash
New Member
Yep, looks good, not as opaque as UV screen or flatbed ink. But solid enough to stand on it's own or backup color.
DRamm76
New Member
Agreed, Lot of customers like the fact that you can print in reverse with the white behind the color as well as the color over the white. You have options.
artbot
New Member
i use white ink (mimaki SS2) constantly with my mimaki 160sp. and i'm going to put the roland silver in it when i get some big projects shipped. i'll be running C/M/Y/K/UV clear/propylene glycol/White/Silver. that's a funky inkset!
i'd like to see a pic of this white and silver ink recycling system. so i can build one for my printer. currently i have an alternate line i plug into the white running cleaning solvent to avoid the constant throwing away of white ink.
also, i notice that when running white a lot, you'll need to pull the head occasionally and put a new head adapter on it. that may just be a mimaki issue. but the screen filter in the head adapters is much more fine than the one in the damper and it will eventually start clogging. even with cleaning solution constantly running.
white ink, and i'd figure the silver too, has a particle base that is basically hard matter. if it settles in a line it will create plaque-like areas because those settlements are no longer affected by solvents. they would by pure TiO2 and or i guess aluminum.
anyway... please send a pic of the recycle system!
i'd like to see a pic of this white and silver ink recycling system. so i can build one for my printer. currently i have an alternate line i plug into the white running cleaning solvent to avoid the constant throwing away of white ink.
also, i notice that when running white a lot, you'll need to pull the head occasionally and put a new head adapter on it. that may just be a mimaki issue. but the screen filter in the head adapters is much more fine than the one in the damper and it will eventually start clogging. even with cleaning solution constantly running.
white ink, and i'd figure the silver too, has a particle base that is basically hard matter. if it settles in a line it will create plaque-like areas because those settlements are no longer affected by solvents. they would by pure TiO2 and or i guess aluminum.
anyway... please send a pic of the recycle system!
printing a UV Clear would be good....white that doesen't plug the head would be good...silver that needs laminated and will read as grey...hmm.....seems like a lot of cash for something that i never get asked for. Perhaps the shops that do work for race cars etc. might find it handy. I still think screenprinting that last 10 years+ can't be beat. I mean, am i supposed to convince a customer that he really needs this expensive print that might not last 3 years? repeat customers? hehe!
artbot
New Member
as far as shaking... i have my white in an external cartridge on a riser to the left of the machine. the cartridge will every few days have a settled white in the bottom. you can shake the cartridge for quite a while before it finally starts to loosen up. i'd get that ink in a clear cartridge so you can visually monitor it settling. for one, over time you can actually get differing white ink rip results and all the values that you set for different white densities will be off. but worse than that is that you might print a bunch of butyl carbitol out of the cartridge, then later shake it up yielding a fluid that is too high a viscosity and will clog the printer.
so get it in a clear cartridge to familiarize yourself with this pesky ink.
i love the white ink. i agree a screen printer can do this. but i do one off very expensive pieces for hospitals, banks, energy companies, etc. i will only print any file one time. i'm certainly not burning a screen (uneditable at that) for a single pass.
so get it in a clear cartridge to familiarize yourself with this pesky ink.
i love the white ink. i agree a screen printer can do this. but i do one off very expensive pieces for hospitals, banks, energy companies, etc. i will only print any file one time. i'm certainly not burning a screen (uneditable at that) for a single pass.
TCBinaflash
New Member
Anyone have any luck printing CMYKLcLm over silver for a metallic finish on photo/process work.
Trying to laydown 100% silver with a screen of the the CMYK file. Any other ideas or techniques besides extensive Photoshop work?
Trying to laydown 100% silver with a screen of the the CMYK file. Any other ideas or techniques besides extensive Photoshop work?
DRamm76
New Member
I've been doing a LOT of testing on this machine and there a lot of different techniques you can utilize to make this a very profitable machine. If anyone would like me to send them some samples of things I've created, shoot me an email to DRamm@tyrrelltech.com. NY NJ PA CT shops only please.
ProColorGraphics
New Member
So of you that have this machine, do you still like it? Do you recommend it? I am strongly considering one and trying to make up my mind on what to go with.
Thanks.
Thanks.
ProColorGraphics
New Member
Any new info on this machine from those that have it?
printfactor
New Member
To anyone looking to buy this printer - DONT!!! here are a number of reasons.
1. as you may of read its very slow. PAINFULLY !
2. be careful with the metalic inks when returning to origin, it can easily go out of line ( depending on size of print ) this will then make the print usless as its ofline with the CMYKLMLC print. Try not to use the option of printing all colours including metalic at the same time as this causes the metalic to blead into the other colours and looks very bad.
3. I have had a few issues with it losing connection with VW - rolans say its my network but my other prints dont have this issue and its another roland.
4. white ink gets contaminated with other colours as its on the same head and cap top. very annoying. so when you are printing a white job you have the 1st inch or so coming out a blue colour. you can clean your cap top every time you need to use the white ink but why should you it should be working every time you need to use it.
5. Using metalic ink with any colours other then the swatches can be very trying. i spent hours if not days trying to figure out why these would not work with cut paths.
6. gradients - a touchie subject, remember to flatten transparency on your artwork if you want cut paths
7. design faults - No handle to open front flap & try wiping the printer when dusting it clean on the blue metal casing.
8. The recurculation of the inks takes for ever and you can easily see the metalic and white ink disapear if your not using the colours and at a stagering cost of £160 + Vat ($245) for a metalic 220ml and £79+vat ($120) for white 220ml its not a cheap option
my opinion is it is a pile of crap as a metalic / white printer and definatly dont buy this option if its your only printer in your business. This may be a good printer as a CMYK or a CMYKLMLC yet to find out as i am waiting on a cost from roland to convert it to one of these options. i will keep you updated!
1. as you may of read its very slow. PAINFULLY !
2. be careful with the metalic inks when returning to origin, it can easily go out of line ( depending on size of print ) this will then make the print usless as its ofline with the CMYKLMLC print. Try not to use the option of printing all colours including metalic at the same time as this causes the metalic to blead into the other colours and looks very bad.
3. I have had a few issues with it losing connection with VW - rolans say its my network but my other prints dont have this issue and its another roland.
4. white ink gets contaminated with other colours as its on the same head and cap top. very annoying. so when you are printing a white job you have the 1st inch or so coming out a blue colour. you can clean your cap top every time you need to use the white ink but why should you it should be working every time you need to use it.
5. Using metalic ink with any colours other then the swatches can be very trying. i spent hours if not days trying to figure out why these would not work with cut paths.
6. gradients - a touchie subject, remember to flatten transparency on your artwork if you want cut paths
7. design faults - No handle to open front flap & try wiping the printer when dusting it clean on the blue metal casing.
8. The recurculation of the inks takes for ever and you can easily see the metalic and white ink disapear if your not using the colours and at a stagering cost of £160 + Vat ($245) for a metalic 220ml and £79+vat ($120) for white 220ml its not a cheap option
my opinion is it is a pile of crap as a metalic / white printer and definatly dont buy this option if its your only printer in your business. This may be a good printer as a CMYK or a CMYKLMLC yet to find out as i am waiting on a cost from roland to convert it to one of these options. i will keep you updated!
artbot
New Member
i got your white recycler right here.... :]
that is quite a list of thing. i can't believe that the white shares a cap with anything. that would be a disaster.
also, i was kinda jealous that my jv3 160sp didn't have a recycling system. then i thought..."wait a minute". this is a no brainer.
so i cut the white head line going to the waste bottle, and put a syringe with a tiny vent hole at the top. every four or five days i empty it back into the white cartridge (which is a clear refillable, don't keep your white in the factory cart!). a white ink printer, at my estimate, throws away about $200 worth of white ink a month. mine... $0 a month.
tada!
that is quite a list of thing. i can't believe that the white shares a cap with anything. that would be a disaster.
also, i was kinda jealous that my jv3 160sp didn't have a recycling system. then i thought..."wait a minute". this is a no brainer.
so i cut the white head line going to the waste bottle, and put a syringe with a tiny vent hole at the top. every four or five days i empty it back into the white cartridge (which is a clear refillable, don't keep your white in the factory cart!). a white ink printer, at my estimate, throws away about $200 worth of white ink a month. mine... $0 a month.
tada!
Attachments
jasonx
New Member
artbot
New Member
@jasonx
you might have to save up for the white ink recycle conversion. one thing... this should be obvious. the first time i went back to my white ink cart to replace the ink, i didn't cover the little vent hole with my finger and the ink squirted about 10 feet across the room. so not that clever.
you might have to save up for the white ink recycle conversion. one thing... this should be obvious. the first time i went back to my white ink cart to replace the ink, i didn't cover the little vent hole with my finger and the ink squirted about 10 feet across the room. so not that clever.