seeking opinions on building a work table

[Accelerated Graphics]

we also have a 4'x8' table that we just store used boxes under. Thats all we could find to do with the space

 

[thewvsignguy]

Our 49" X 18' table and 2 others a 51" X 99" and a 51" X 123". We prefer to use acrylic as a topper it's rigid enough, soft enough to cut on and can be flipped over when the groves get to deep. The 51 X 99 has drawers on one side for media storage and whatnot, they just slide in and out mounted on 2 X 4's with a 3/4" plywood as the drawers.

The 4 X 18 has a 1/2" MDF as the base, super rigid then just double side banner tape to hold the acrylic in place. I have yet to fill the the bottom of the tables with to much junk yet, give it some time.....

 

[jaylem]

clamping edges

Lots of great advise. Not sure if someone else had mentioned it, but make sure you have a lip around the table for clamping work down when needed.

 

[neato]

Anyone ever used these?

http://www.amazon.com/2x4basics-90164-Workbench-Shelving-Storage/dp/B0030T1BRE

 

[BIG EASY DOES IT]

We have plenty of storage for the most part around the shop. We never seem to have enough trash space though. So we made large bins on wheels. That scoot under the table completely out of the way and are about 3 feet high and basically same size as the table. Holds a lot of trash so we aren't constantly going to the dumpster.

 

[dsmskyline]

We are moving into a new shop in the next couple weeks. Our current tables are 5'x10' end to end to make a 5'x20' table. They are made from 2" steel box tubing welded together. I have crap stored under them on pallets now. One end has a 4'x2' adjustable shelving unit.

I will be building 2 more table this weekend and modifying our current to match them. The new ones will be getting a shelf underneath for storage. Plan to keep banner stands under one and packaging under another. Probably have finishing equipment such as welder and grommet machine under one. the tables will be on locking casters with a finished working height of around 38".

Tops on the current ones are 5'x10' mdo. Local supplier doesn't have that big so I will be using some 1/2" pvc with rhino mats. We usually get about a year on the cutting mats.

I will be skirting 3 side of the tables to keep what's underneath them hidden. Oddly the goal for the new shop is to turn it into a show room as well.

No pictures now but will post some once the new tables are built. I also have to plan and build a new fab shop for both wood and metal.

 

[bob]

Something learned from other people's homemade tables...

If the table is top doesn't have at least a foot or so overhang, all around, from whatever the central core might be even if it's just four legs, there will come when someone will want to use a stool or tall chair and will find that to be uncomfortable if not impossible. All those shelves and crap under most all the tables people design that come close to being flush with the edge of the top are knee bangers even if you never use any sort of seating.

 

[d fleming]

I have galvanized pan tops on mine. 15 years and still going. Magnetic sticks well to it, clamps work fine, never had to replace because of knife cuts. X-acto blades are cheap. Cutting mats are not.

 

[lgroth]

All my tables are on wheels, a 5X10 foot in front of the laminator, a 4X10 foot and an 8X10 foot, all the same height, same height as our Javelin cutter, sewing machine, etc.... Can use in any configuration for anything with all being the same height. All have 1" thick wall steel frames, 1" mdf tops with cutting mats, very rigid. Can rearrange my work area in minutes to suit whatever I'm working on.

 

[SignShopGal]

Did you miss the part about the sheet of 3/4 MDO screwed to the top? The banquet table, commercial grade with particle board top not plastic, is there to provide legs and a surface to attach the MDO. If the MDO is screwed on from the bottom with screws every 12"-18" the table top is functionally laminated to the MDO. It's sufficiently rigid as to support anything that's been put on it in the last 12 or so years. It remains dead flat so that rigid rulers can be used on it. It's light enough that it's easy to move, although it seldom is. It sits right where I want it. If I wanted another table, I'd build another of these in a New York minute.

Particle Board: AWFUL.
Reason: Taping and cutting, it comes apart and sheds, always leaving particles of wood and cardboard dust that is static clingy, wore out after less than 3 months use, sealant wore off after daily cleaning. HATED IT. SO sososo glad I got a cutting top, 1/4 " thick heavy duty.

I am all in for the adjustable height idea and the wheels, with locking mech of course.

To each their own, but....

DEATH TO PARTICLE BOARD TABLES.

 

[bob]

Particle Board: AWFUL.
Reason: Taping and cutting, it comes apart and sheds, always leaving particles of wood and cardboard dust that is static clingy, wore out after less than 3 months use, sealant wore off after daily cleaning. HATED IT. SO sososo glad I got a cutting top, 1/4 " thick heavy duty.

I am all in for the adjustable height idea and the wheels, with locking mech of course.

To each their own, but....

DEATH TO PARTICLE BOARD TABLES.

Just so you know in the future, MDO is plywood with a resin finish. MDF is particle board. MDO=Medium Density Overlay, MDF=Medium Density Fiber.

Knowing the nomenclature is half of all wisdom.

 

[artbot]

48" doesn't work well. i've had them for years and now i insist on anything but 48". hell, even 49" (mdf width) is better. so much stuff is based on standard sizes, the table should be wider than the most popular standard substrate dimension.

use a lot of 54" wide media? ... make the table at least 56" wide. etc. also height is huge. do a lot of research on what the perfect working height is for you/and crew. oddly, very low tables have their advantages too. i have two rolling 52" x 120" tables that are only 26" high (i'm short, basically mid-thigh). if you are fabricating a complex sign, a waste high table is really difficult to work with when drilling, seeing (needs to be more bird's eye view), lining up, etc.

 

[Nat]

Clamp able Edges are very valuable, Portions of my table are not clampable and I wish they were.
mine is 6 ft by 11 ft makes it nice when your working on 2 or more pieces or one big one, but It's 38" high!
Can't reach across it, would be nice if it was lower. Have a 60" wide laminator at one end, Had to raise it to match table height.
Have 3 rolling cabinets that Roll under the other three sides all have 4 drawers each, and Garbage cans fit under each side.

Thanks Nat

 

[artbot]

one thing i forgot to mention that is truly a ridiculous thing that has spoiled me. i have to giant rotisserie tables. a 7' x 14' and an 8' x 8'. they are from an aircraft manufacturer (was told they were used to make jet fighters for the vietnam war. the 8x8 is actually a trapezoid in the shape of the plane's tail.) i chopped and modded them to have decks. i've had giant pieces on them and can just walk right up to the middle.

aaaand i have a 7' x 24' foot vacuum table that i have yet to modify for architectural panel lay ups. right now it's just a work table.

 

[Andy D]

I built mine 42" high with a rhino cutting mat on top. No hunching over to weed or work on things. Consider storage shelves underneath for all the little tools and things that clutter the top, particularly dowel rods for tape and occasional vinyl rolls. Mine are 4x8, on locking casters and they bolt end to end with carriage bolts/wing nuts for the option of one 16' table or two 8' tables.

Yeah, our tables are just over 42" too, at first I didn't like them that heigh but now I doubt I would go back to a standard work table height.

Our tables had a formed aluminium top but after they got scored up they started scratching prints and banners that we had to work on with the ink down,
so I mounted 12mm sintra to the table tops and painted them with a high grade floor enamel. That has worked out great, they are great to cut on.
Every 2-3 months I re-coat them, it takes less than 1/2 hour to do 4 tables, and it's like I have brand new slick table tops.

 

[SignShopGal]

Nomenclature

Just so you know in the future, MDO is plywood with a resin finish. MDF is particle board. MDO=Medium Density Overlay, MDF=Medium Density Fiber.

Knowing the nomenclature is half of all wisdom.

Thank you for the edjamacashun.

 

[signmeup]

Artbot wins! But I have the slickest wheel/lock setup. My table lifts up 1/2" onto wheels when I step on a foot pedal and automatically latches there. Then I can roll the table to where I need it. Another step on the pedal, release the latch and the table lowers onto its legs. Nice and stable because the table sits on it's own legs not on locked wheels.

The mechanism is made from 6 door hinges and some scraps of 2 x 4. When you step on the pedal a pendulum swings into place and latches the foot pedal down.

You have to lift each end of the table separately, although it can be geared up to do it from a bar that joins the 2 foot pedals.


I've attached a drawing of how it works.

Adrian

 

[BIG EASY DOES IT]

Very nice setup. The step is a really cool idea. How hard is it to press the pedal down and get the latch locked in. It looks like there is a fair amount of weight there.

 

[signmeup]

It's about a 38" lever and it only lifts 1/2" so it's pretty easy. It also only lifts 1/2 the table. I can do it with my thumb.

Adrian

 

[eahicks]

Did you miss the part about the sheet of 3/4 MDO screwed to the top? The banquet table, commercial grade with particle board top not plastic, is there to provide legs and a surface to attach the MDO. If the MDO is screwed on from the bottom with screws every 12"-18" the table top is functionally laminated to the MDO. It's sufficiently rigid as to support anything that's been put on it in the last 12 or so years. It remains dead flat so that rigid rulers can be used on it. It's light enough that it's easy to move, although it seldom is. It sits right where I want it. If I wanted another table, I'd build another of these in a New York minute.

If all you are doing is weeding and taping 18" x 24" coro signs or DOT numbers, this sounds ideal. Layout your first printed 4' x 16' banner on it to trim and hem, and you'll hate that table. WAY too small for your average shop.