UCJV330 Pull Back Printing (Multi Layer printing)

[Goatshaver]

I've never tried to print a 2nd pass by using the crop marks, so I don't know how well that works.
One thing I know other people will do for the roll back on shorter prints is to take a core and cut a slit in it length wise and insert/pinch the end of the material inside the slit to add some weight to the material. In theory this should help with the bunching up, but I have never done this personally..

For stickers I use General Formulations GF-214/216, it's cheap and I have no print issues or bunching up in the machine. It's probably not ideal for automotive or anything long term, but I mostly print product labels/stickers.

Thank you for helping me along with this! The only way to go really high with them is really doing 2 passes. 1 Pass will only get you so high and then you either need to do overprints, which will screw with your 4 color layer, or do 2 pass with pull back or by reading the crop marks.
So this morning I did 5 layers on the first pass (BUILD, WHITE, BUILD, WHITE, 4 COLOR) and the second pass Clear overprint x2. Which gave a really nice high raised print.

Still gotta work on pull back or crop mark method. Pull back is really a pain since I have to watch to make sure the material doesn't bunch up in front of the roller. But You helped me get way further than any of the techs have on this.

 

[Goatshaver]

I've never tried to print a 2nd pass by using the crop marks, so I don't know how well that works.
One thing I know other people will do for the roll back on shorter prints is to take a core and cut a slit in it length wise and insert/pinch the end of the material inside the slit to add some weight to the material. In theory this should help with the bunching up, but I have never done this personally..

For stickers I use General Formulations GF-214/216, it's cheap and I have no print issues or bunching up in the machine. It's probably not ideal for automotive or anything long term, but I mostly print product labels/stickers.

Do you have any tips or tricks do you use for pull back printing?
Best option I've found is moving my outer rollers in more than normal. Instead of being on the very outermost grit rollers I'm moving them in to the next set. So they're in about 4-5 inches from the edge of the material. Even still I see it bunching up a little bit but much less than if the rollers were all the way out on the edges.

I was looking to see if Mimaki has any instructional videos on pull back printing. Funny enough, they don't, what a surprise. Just from my short experience with it I'm going to make the assumption that not a lot of people use this feature because it has to be setup just so perfectly.

 

[Kemik]

Do you have any tips or tricks do you use for pull back printing?
Best option I've found is moving my outer rollers in more than normal. Instead of being on the very outermost grit rollers I'm moving them in to the next set. So they're in about 4-5 inches from the edge of the material. Even still I see it bunching up a little bit but much less than if the rollers were all the way out on the edges.

I was looking to see if Mimaki has any instructional videos on pull back printing. Funny enough, they don't, what a surprise. Just from my short experience with it I'm going to make the assumption that not a lot of people use this feature because it has to be setup just so perfectly.

I mostly try to avoid roll back, unless the customer insists on having both white and clear.
When doing the design, I will try to keep in mind that the alignment will not be perfect, and do shorter prints so there is less chance of misalignment.
The material I use does not have any issue with bunching up.

 

[Goatshaver]

I mostly try to avoid roll back, unless the customer insists on having both white and clear.
When doing the design, I will try to keep in mind that the alignment will not be perfect, and do shorter prints so there is less chance of misalignment.
The material I use does not have any issue with bunching up.

Yeah same, I don't want to do it unless I absolutely have to. I typically don't do more than 24" in the feed direction for prints.
I'm still trying to figure out why I'm having this bunching issue. I emailed Mimaki suggesting they should allow all rollers down in the middle with low pressure on pullback printing. A tech responded and said he thought it was possible and would get back to me. You'd think a Mimaki tech would practically know these things inside and out.

 

[RonnyCrack]

I'm going to try to run some stuff from Cut Master to my FC9000 but it's not ideal. Can't wait for Onyx to update and support the 330 so I can move it all over to that workflow that I use for my S40600.

I say the cutting is different because vinyl and lam are all one thickness and the blade holder should just rest on the vinyl to hold it down to the cut strip right at the cut and with a small amount of blade showing, where as the raised UV prints the depth will vary along the print so have to setup the blades the opposite. Have way more blade out and use the pressure to control it all that way you can catch those raised areas instead of the blade move up due to the holder moving over the raised area. Hopefully that makes sense.

I'm definitely not used to making so many adjustments but I'm also still learning a lot about this 330.

I know it's late, I don't believe anybody said this yet, but if you put your pinch rollers down manually as soon as it lifts them up (just pull the purple arm back over to the right) you can pullback print with all rollers down, which leads to a way better alignment. I have pretty solid success on up to 12-16in of media length. And it's much more consistent when calibrating in the layers panel when you're using all pinch rollers. If only they would just include an update in the firmware to allow them to stay down, like Roland's can. And it's funny because then it puts them down and rolls all over your prints in order to cut them out. There are a lot of stupid oversights that could be fixed with a firmware update. Like being able to actually consistently start a print or cut at a set origin. Or making the entire grit roller gritty so you can be more lenient with your roller placement.

 

[Goatshaver]

I know it's late, I don't believe anybody said this yet, but if you put your pinch rollers down manually as soon as it lifts them up (just pull the purple arm back over to the right) you can pullback print with all rollers down, which leads to a way better alignment. I have pretty solid success on up to 12-16in of media length. And it's much more consistent when calibrating in the layers panel when you're using all pinch rollers. If only they would just include an update in the firmware to allow them to stay down, like Roland's can. And it's funny because then it puts them down and rolls all over your prints in order to cut them out. There are a lot of stupid oversights that could be fixed with a firmware update. Like being able to actually consistently start a print or cut at a set origin. Or making the entire grit roller gritty so you can be more lenient with your roller placement.

I might have to try that, maybe just pause the print and flip them over. Just seems silly to not have the option to have them down to me. I actually emailed Mimaki support on suggesting a firmware change to do that for the rollers cause I think it would be really helpful to lots of folks.