UJF 7151 plus thread.

[Forty One]

So realistically, the value should be 148.5?

 

[dudeinthemoon]

Move it up until you get 1.5 actual gap, then press enter save

 

[dudeinthemoon]

So realistically, the value should be 148.5?

Whatever you see on the screen will be your maximum (153) after setting

 

[Forty One]

Cheers.
As it turns out, the previous owner always had it set up with a jig and adjusted the values manually.
Thanks a ton. You've helped me out when mimaki don't want to touch me

 

[Forty One]

I can adjust the scan or feed parameters by doing alignment tests, but can I do something similar to the media feed adjustment on a roll to roll on the ujf?
I.E. I'm getting a little banding when printing solid colours (ultramarine blue), and I want to smooth it out.
If I was using the jv33, I can manually adjust the media advancement to compensate for this.

am i right to assume that this is only on the 'feed' alignment, and no other area?

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

There is compensation adjustment in RasterLink (using 7) under the quality tab. That might help a bit. Never used it here however.

 

[dudeinthemoon]

You can adjust feeding in #adjust > feed comp.2, but the most important adjustments which has to be performed before are leveling, table height (head gap), head voltage, head slant, stagger, and only after all of that - feeding. Also this could be caused by deflected nozzle on cyan head

 

[Forty One]

You need good feeler gauges for that.
Go to #table adjust and adjust the height so you’ll get 1.5 gap in all 4 corners and the center of the table. This may doesn’t need adjusting, just make sure the gap is right and begin adjusting the Z sensor

Stupid question but... do you adjust it with media on the table (eg 20mm acrylic), or just calibrate from the table itself?

 

[dudeinthemoon]

The point is to make 1.5mm gap between head surface and the table, so yes, nothing on the table, and make sure all 4 corners of the table are equal

 

[Forty One]

Thanks. I really appreciate the help.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Just did some horse trading and am now in the UJF-7151 Plus club as well. Started the day off with a dead EPL V3 board, wooo! Also had to change out all the bottle tanks due to light contamination while sitting. Guy I got it from is a Mimaki tech, so being taken care of. Can say I am NOT a fan of the bottle system and its weird placement. The heads are nice, albeit far from high resolution by today's standards. Bonus points for the steel panels that don't dissolve when ink gets on them.

 

[Forty One]

Keep his number.
Apparently here in Australia the mimaki techs who know these machines are rarer than hens teeth.
I'm having misting/overspray issues when building up braille still.
I've been told various reasons and all are not making any sense.

It really pissed me off that the tech told the previous owner that the coolant issue would require new pumps and water jacket.
I sorted it out with a syringe and some coolant.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

I've heard a lot of nightmare tech stories across pretty much all the printer brands. Gets worse when you have an oddball printer. Service manuals only go so far when trying to understand a weird issue. Thankfully, I've been pretty good about figuring things out on my own and getting help here. When I learn something, I do my best to share it for someone who just might need it in the future. The 7151 is a beast, and pretty rare in the US as well compared to the much more popular 6042. While the 3042/6042 is pretty much 2 sizes of the same printer, the 7151 is a bit of a crazy outlier and seems to share more in common with a JFX in some ways.

Hoping to do some Mimaki service stuff in the future, already been getting service calls to help on some basic stuff. Lack of access to firmwares and parameters from the dealer/service portal sucks. Though, before they fixed the issue, I totally snagged every file I could when I found them in a public directory.

 

[Forty One]

I've found that in the first gen of the 7151 it uses a lot of parts from the 3042 HG & FX models.
I say a lot, but so far anything to do with the coolant system really

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Yup, just gutted a 6042MKII and the cooling system was almost identical as far as fittings and such went. It looks like a hybrid between MK1 and MK2 parts, but mine is a 2015 model. Just changed out the air filters above the head, holy crap those are pricey. For some idiotic reason they specced biotech grade filters. I didn't buy them, but am going to get some $0.50 Chinese ones of same spec as opposed to $26USD ones.

 

[Forty One]

I've succumbed to the possibility I may need a new cyan head for the printer. BUT I'm not 100% convinced yet.
I've had the tech company me over and balance out the table and adjust the z axis. Also tweaked the head level and lamp etc. So I'm told the machine is level.
We did some drop pos tests ECT and from inspection it will need a bit more of a print alignment.

I have also been told the possibility that the cyan head is on the way out mainly due to the excessive overspray visible on the right side of the items being printed.

So.... Here's my current test and method to get me to the point I may need a print head.

After his (techie) attendance, I have run a test print.
Overpass 3 times. 1200 X 1200 ink limit applied (I previously leave this off as I have done in the past with the 3042)

You can see the cyan overspray to the right of the images.
But.... Now on the left image, you can see the ghosting of what looks like black.

Because the cyan is consistent across all images printed, I could possibly be persuaded that the head is done.
But having the black only effect the image on the left (fyi approx 500mm from origin) am I wrong in thinking the head/bed is still out of alignment? Remember it's ghosting and not the overspray that is common in identifying the head out of alignment.

Then....
I ran the same file but this time with the cyan channel off

No ghosting of black or cyan but the magenta is visible. Def needs alignment
This is more visible closer to origin
A little bit of black is visible on the left side of the image furthest away from origin

I've become dubious of mimaki saying what the machine needs as of the previous comment where they said it needed a complete new coolant system and I fixed it with a syringe.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Not sure if the 7151's setup guide includes instructions for a head alignment, of if you'll have to find a service manual. Might want to give that a try, as well as voltage adjustments. Might help. I know it can with the CE4 heads on the 3042/6042MKII printers. Different heads, same manufacturer and similar generation.

 

[Forty One]

I'll piggy back the tech when he come in to do it as I kinda know... But always helps to get a bit more hands on info. Eg, there's the adjustment via the LCD and then there's the manual adjustment on the hardware

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

I imagine the heads are physically locked down and fine, just the alignment in firmware is likely to need adjusting.

 

[Mrkopr]

You can adjust feeding in #adjust > feed comp.2, but the most important adjustments which has to be performed before are leveling, table height (head gap), head voltage, head slant, stagger, and only after all of that - feeding. Also this could be caused by deflected nozzle on cyan head

HEAD VOLTAGE; How or where can i see or adjust the voltage? I had a Big surge (I live in FL) and it seems that my colors are significantly deeper than before. Could this be the issue ? maybe my voltage was low before and now its right on.. My colors seemed a little on the light side compared to my screen color but now they are right on. Thank you in advance for any Information you might be able to Provide. Mimaki UJF 6042 running Rasterlink 5. Cheers