UJF 7151 plus thread.

[Smoke_Jaguar]

If I remove the subtanks, I will need to add some sort of inline or reservoir heater. Doesn't need to maintain more than 45C, so not hard, just time consuming to spec one out. Already building another printer from raw boards, heads and other parts, so not a lot of project time open at the moment.

 

[Forty One]

I there a way to manually pull ink through the lines? SImilar concept to the solvent roll to roll?
I'm thinking there may be a blockage in the line for the black as I keep getting the Ink Supply error.
Physically theres about a third a bottle of ink there, but the system says about 10%. I've checked the little ball in the bottle and that's fine.
I've done multiple Ink discharge, sub tank discharge and then a refill, but I keep getting this error.

Yes, I have more ink on the way, and I have thought that it may be a system thingy that says it can do the ink fill up with only 10% in there.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Moving ink manually has a bad habit of making it barf ink inside the pressure/vacuum lines destroying valves, lines and stuff.

 

[Forty One]

So just multiple sub tank drains and ink fills with solution?

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Can run a wash process, as outlined in the tech (not user) manual. If you need a copy, let me know.

 

[Forty One]

Yeah. If you got a copy.

 

[Forty One]

whats the parameter or setting where I can open up the ink line solenoid to manually pull ink through?
I can't find a setting under #test so I think it would be a parameter.
I've also searched for something in the UCJV300 settings but I'm not coming up with anything

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Since these printers use low-slung MBIS (Mimaki Bulk Ink System) tanks, they use diaphragm pumps located in the upper right side of the printer instead of gravity fed valves like the UCJV.

 

[Forty One]

thanks.
so how do I manually release the valve?
I'm trying to asertain where the blockage is for the Black channel and I cant pull ink through as it is locked.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Black ink is cursed, if it has been sitting a while, there might be solidification. I just disconnect the lines one by one and run a thin wire through the ink tubes to see where it's blocked. Since the pumps are diaphragm, they have to be moving to be pumping basically, they might get some flow. There is also a valve that switches between circular head flow and adding ink into the loop. Check the diagrams section for an ink-flow explainer. These are weird printers.

 

[Forty One]

For anyone's reference when coming up with similar errors...
I was receiving multiple errors relating to a particular head, in my case it was the black (Kay) head.
Everything from overflow errors through to "!ink circulation", 68a, 68b and 68c errors.
Now, this does not solve everything so don't get shirty with me if the following does not work for you.
I had a blockage in the inline resulting in the subtank not filling up.
After discharging the subtank through the #adjist menu, I powered off the machine and turned off the power to it.
Making sure the head was locked in position over the capping station, I opened up the rear of the machine where all the pumps are. I disconnected the hoses in the recirculation system, both a and b, and then with a syringe I pumped about 200mls of cleaning fluid through the intake (a) and bleed the fluid out into a waste bottle via B. I did this till the flow was consistent and partially clear again.
Then, after reconnecting all the hoses I run another ink fill up and ran a test print about 3 times .
I printed a panel the size of the bed and in rasterlink I changed it to only print 100% black to get all the cleaning solution out.

 

[Dasdesignguy]

THink it's best I start a specific thread to this unit.
Me thinks I'm going to have alot of questions.

I've been receiving errors stating that the UV lamp is overheating.
Using the mitsubishi Acr ex001 profile.
1200x1200 re3s. Uni Directional

I am currnetly printing a base white. approx a 500mm x 400mm coverage.
It gets about a third the way through then it stops and gives me the error 'UV LAMP OVER HEAT".
I've flushed the antifreeze and replaced it.
Checked that all the fans are clean and the radiator is clean. However I keep getting this error.
The lamp has done a bit over 1000 hours.

ANy advice?

What kind of water are you diluting the antifreeze with? Are you certain that you have purged all of the air from the lines after refill? Is the glass on the lamp clean?

 

[Dasdesignguy]

For anyone's reference when coming up with similar errors...
I was receiving multiple errors relating to a particular head, in my case it was the black (Kay) head.
Everything from overflow errors through to "!ink circulation", 68a, 68b and 68c errors.
Now, this does not solve everything so don't get shirty with me if the following does not work for you.
I had a blockage in the inline resulting in the subtank not filling up.
After discharging the subtank through the #adjist menu, I powered off the machine and turned off the power to it.
Making sure the head was locked in position over the capping station, I opened up the rear of the machine where all the pumps are. I disconnected the hoses in the recirculation system, both a and b, and then with a syringe I pumped about 200mls of cleaning fluid through the intake (a) and bleed the fluid out into a waste bottle via B. I did this till the flow was consistent and partially clear again.
Then, after reconnecting all the hoses I run another ink fill up and ran a test print about 3 times .
I printed a panel the size of the bed and in rasterlink I changed it to only print 100% black to get all the cleaning solution out.

Have the subtank replaced for the problem head that's giving you errors. One of the floats is stuck/sticking.

 

[Forty One]

What kind of water are you diluting the antifreeze with? Are you certain that you have purged all of the air from the lines after refill? Is the glass on the lamp clean?

I rectified this as I found out the actual heatsink had blockages in there.

 

[Forty One]

Have the subtank replaced for the problem head that's giving you errors. One of the floats is stuck/sticking.

The subtank itself is unable to be replaced withoutt replacing the entire head.
The float wasn't stuck. As i mentioned that there was a blockage in the line. I found this out by breaking it down and checking each individual piece.
Correct, having a stuck float could create these errors but in this case it was the hose.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Since the subtanks are metal, they can take some crazy flushing and knocking around. None of that crappy filter mesh to get damaged like in the plastic ones.

 

[Forty One]

Ok.... What's going on here???
I swapped my cyan with the clear head for the interm while I ponder purchasing a new head or 2.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Swapping heads seems to be good for limited troubleshooting only. Since they are running different tuning/firing parameters, stuff gets wonky fast.

 

[Forty One]

Can anyone tell me how to change the serial number for a print head and also what is what from this reference?
How do I know what the voltage is for this print head?

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Service manual sent.

Most modern heads have firing data programmed in the heads themselves for the controller to retrieve. If it's an old Epson DX4/5/7 and similar, then you have to input that stuff manually. Or, in some cases, Mimaki slaps a little chip on them that has the firing data.