I've done numerous wet apps on windows. it's given me grief many times too, but on a full coverage application, my application skills should be in the top half of my peers... but I ain't the best of the best, and sometimes a window is just too much in the front & center eye level line of scrutiny to put up with even the slightest imperfections.
Sure I can get a perfect application applying dry.. but not EVERY time. Doing wet applications, when it might be a 4' x 6 foot panel, I might be doing it without a helping hand... and there might be a fierce wind as well...
Hell, even a 2x3 with a little wind, I got no shame busting out the spray bottle...
So, Ron... If you apply app fluid, CLEAN the window very good first! Don't let it remain oily. Once it's completely clean and dry, I'll spray my application fluid on the top half of the window more than the rest because the fluid will run down as you squeegee. Another thing is I might NOT spray the top 2 inches or so, to help me get the app tape removal started easier. Sometimes I might even remove some fluid halfway through the process... as you squeegee down, and force almost all the accumulated fluid from above, you will clearly have excessive moisture. reach down (while holding the half applied graphic) and squeegee the excess down, then proceed. You should be applying with a firm squeegee pressure all the time, & from applying dry you should be good at that, but wet apps can make you lazy, but don't let them... you STILL need firm pressure to remove that moisture. (but that often needs to be a two step process, because to firm of pressure when things are floating, can force things to move, especially with side-to-side squeegees technique... so think of tacking it down first, but always reach back up with those overlapping strokes & apply a little more pressure the second time over areas that have been tacked down with lighter pressure on the first go round)
After I'm done applying a wet application on glass, I will squeegee again, with even harder pressure. Then if you have another window, or other sign work, move on... let that dry as long as it's convenient.
When time to remove tape, I'll start at that dry inch or two on top. The tape should get started easy if it was a dry app on top... then I will spray some water on the application tape. You don't need to use expensive fluid here, just water. This will lessen the grip of the application tape adhesive. Now, I'll tear my 2' 3' or 4' wide tape into about 8" or 12" wide wide strips & fold it down over my graphic... pull straight down, so very little pressure is tending to lift the vinyl back off the window. WATCH OUT for a wave or ripple starting to form though. If the graphic comes unstuck enough to stretch & form this wave, STOP.
I've pulled tape down with the graphic stretching & removed a full 3' x 8' tape while also managing to allow this wave to grow along the bottom or my tape removing process, all the way down for 8 feet... but it makes me nervous & I'll usually abandon the 8" strips idea if this happen. I abandon the strips idea because if the "wave" of stretching will be tolerated & dealt with all the way to the bottom, it obviously has to occur evenly across the entire job, so I have pulled the entire width of tape off while allowing this weird ripple phenomenon, but the best thing is to stop, squeegee again, & go to lunch for a while and/or try working from the center out as noted below.
The other thing I've had to try many time is to very carefully pick away at the transfer tape surface right in the middle of the job. You can make a hole & pick away some more to grab a corner & start removing the tape from the middle. It seems to dry first there, & there is greater surface tension there, so i often rip my way in, create 8" strips (or odd triangular sections radiating out from center) & remove the tape out towards the edges.
