Wrinkles and bubbles in application tape???

[neckbone]

I'm not sure what has changed, but latedly, everything I apply application tape to that is 24" up to 30" wide, I get wrinkles in my application tape right at the start. I use a 32" BS to apply my tape and I use R Tape Conform.

How I apply...... I lay my graphic on my flat work surface...... I grab my roll of application tape ( usually 30" )..... I pull off a few inches from the roll so that I have some tape to stick to my table top.... now, this is were I do notice that some of the wrinkles get in the tape. I must not be pulling my tag end off evenly, but I've tried it several ways and can not find a true way to do it. So I will waste a foot or more trying to get it so that the tape starts running smooth without any bubbles or wrinkles. The wrinkles are always on the outer 2 edges, which makes me believe that it's the way I'm starting my tag end from the roll.....maybe I'm stretching it or something????

Does anybody have any tips for starting the tape process using a Big Squeegee?

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

I use the big squeegee for this all the time with no trouble at all. I roll back a few inches of the tape and tack it to the table. then i run back and forth across the flap of tape with a hard squeegee and make sure it lays smooth all the way across. Then just push the big squeegee all the way down the table. I also tape the end of my graphic down with tape, which ultimately is very helpful.

Is your work table perfectly flat...or at least reasonably flat? That may be an issue.

 

[spudcity]

I have been having a similar problem, but it is only when I am taping Oracal 751. It seems like if there is any type of small crease or bend in the paper from moving stuff around causes a major fold at some point when putting the application tape on. I just have to be super careful when moving things from the cutter to the table. I have zero issues with print/lams on 3M.

I just tried going from TransferRite 1310 to the R-Tape to see if it made a difference, and it didn't.

I was thinking of trying the paper-based application tape to see if it makes a difference as I have pretty much exlusively used the plastic-based stuff

 

[jimbug72]

I've had something similar happen to me twice. Tape that seem to do this sort of thing no matter what I tried. Changed the roll out and the problem went away. No clue why. Rolls didn't appear to be damaged or have any visible defects. Just wouldn't go down w/o wrinkling. 1 roll did it off the rip and I sent it back. The other roll did it near the end of the roll. They were purchased several months apart so I doubt it was from the same manufacturing run. It was RTAPE 4075 RLA. both rolls were 24".

Also, is the felt on your BS beat up/worn out? I've had issues with bubbles/wrinkles in tape when the felt gets to worn and boogered up with fuzz balls.

 

[spudcity]

I've had something similar happen to me twice. Tape that seem to do this sort of thing no matter what I tried. Changed the roll out and the problem went away. No clue why. Rolls didn't appear to be damaged or have any visible defects. Just wouldn't go down w/o wrinkling. 1 roll did it off the rip and I sent it back. The other roll did it near the end of the roll. They were purchased several months apart so I doubt it was from the same manufacturing run. It was RTAPE 4075 RLA. both rolls were 24".

Also, is the felt on your BS beat up/worn out? I've had issues with bubbles/wrinkles in tape when the felt gets to worn and boogered up with fuzz balls.

My BS is brand-spanking new (dropped the first and broke it and finally bought a new one after taping it together. lol)

 

[neckbone]

I use the big squeegee for this all the time with no trouble at all. I roll back a few inches of the tape and tack it to the table. then i run back and forth across the flap of tape with a hard squeegee and make sure it lays smooth all the way across. Then just push the big squeegee all the way down the table. I also tape the end of my graphic down with tape, which ultimately is very helpful.

Is your work table perfectly flat...or at least reasonably flat? That may be an issue.

I work off a table top for my surface..... I don't usually rub my tag end that sticks to the table with a hard squeegee. I'll try that and see if it helps. Thanks

 

[Keith Jenicek]

We tape the graphic to the cutting table using painters tape. Unroll a few inches of the transfer tape and secure it to the table. Getting it flat is the trick! I lightly tack the middle edge of the transfer paper to the table and place the big squeegee on top of that and slowly work the tape down to the table, from middle to top and middle to bottom. All the while, being careful to not create wrinkles, (it may take some "pulling" of the transfer tape to get it flat.) A few extra inches of lead transfer tape before reaching the graphic will let you know if the tape is flat or not. After that, just push the squeegee against the tape roll and apply.

 

[edgette]

The problem may be with not getting the vinyl flat on the table. I have this problem if I don't tape the corners down on the large prints. In hind sight I wish I would have got the 30" sheeter for applying transfer tape instead of the 26". That thing blows the BS out of the water for putting on transfer tape.

 

[Graphiki]

We built a holder that is attached to the wall, we put pretty much all our tape in it.
Pipes go through the tape roll and flanges we pull it through a bottom pipe which holds it tight off the surface so we can squeegee it down.
Our tables are on castors and we just roll them up to it to premask.
We will do 16' at a time no problem.

I can send you a picture of it if you want to see it.

 

[neckbone]

We built a holder that is attached to the wall, we put pretty much all our tape in it.
Pipes go through the tape roll and flanges we pull it through a bottom pipe which holds it tight off the surface so we can squeegee it down.
Our tables are on castors and we just roll them up to it to premask.
We will do 16' at a time no problem.

I can send you a picture of it if you want to see it.

Please do show pics if you can.... I really need to figure out something different. For some reason, I just can't get the tape started without wrinkles.... After wasting a foot or 2, then it straightens out and I can place my vinyl in front of the roll and apply with no problems..... It has to be the way I'm pulling off my tag and and sticking to the table. I've tried pulling from the ends, pulling from th center, pulling from ends and center...... I figured that I don't have problems with brand new rolls, because the weight of the roll helps me pull of the tag end more smoothly..... I just have problems basically when the roll gets about half empty...... and this is only on wide rolls (30")..... no problems on smaller, so I think that narrows my problem down to me.

 

[Graphiki]

I haven't attached any pics in here before hopefully this works.

 

[Graphiki]

We like the 3m tape the best doesn't rip as easily and stays flat better when you go to install. Aggravates me way less when we install. R tape was supposed to have a formula that was the same but it wasn't.

 

[neckbone]

Thanks for the pic.... I've been using R-tape Conform and really like that stuff, but I may have to try something different.

 

[spudcity]

The problem may be with not getting the vinyl flat on the table. I have this problem if I don't tape the corners down on the large prints. In hind sight I wish I would have got the 30" sheeter for applying transfer tape instead of the 26". That thing blows the BS out of the water for putting on transfer tape.

What is the 30" sheeter? Where can I find info on it?

 

[signage]

Here they have a video on it also

 

[edgette]

For the money, the sheeter has probably been one of the best investments I have made. I do tons of vinyl that needs to be taped and it just about paid for itself on the first few big jobs (100+ yards of tape). I've pulled through sheets of vinyl that were 22' long in about 20 seconds. Unless you have a laminator that you're using for transfer tape, I don't think you can get it done faster or without having a defect.

 

[bob]

Putting application tape onto vinyl is, like everything else, something you learn to do. It's not rocket surgery and it doesn't require much in the way of equipment other than a flat table, a fixed axle to hold the role of application tape [ala Weber] and a 12" flat drywall trowel or just a Big Squeegee. It most certainly doesn't take a laminator or 'sheeter', whatever that might be. Myself, I use the axle and trowel.

You really should learn to do this by hand. Then you can do it pretty much anywhere under most any conditions.

In order to properly apply app tape to anything larger that your hand the tape must be larger than the vinyl and backing to which you're applying it. The app tape must always overlap the vinyl and backing on the end and on both edges.

It's the overlap on the end that allows you a wrinkle free start and it's the overlapping the edges that holds the whole thing to the table and prevents the app tape from wrinkling as you apply it to whatever it is you're masking.

Bubbles in app tape occur for the same reason they occur in vinyl; bad squeegee technique.

Even if there is the odd bubble or wrinkle in the app tape, if the vinyl underneath is still flat on its backing it won't hurt anything. It might leave a curious micro ridge if the tape was wrinkled or a tiny crater looking thing if a bubble in the app tale. These tiny anomalies left in the vinyl will heal themselves in a bit of time.

 

[edgette]

Bob,

Why doesn't everyone hand paint graphics still? Because we have technology to do it faster and more efficiently. If you could cut your time to apply app tape to 1/4 of what it takes not, why wouldn't you? I feel so good about how well this thing works I should be selling it. The people who make the product should be pushing it harder on these forums and people might realize how much time and effort they would save.

 

[bob]

Bob,

Why doesn't everyone hand paint graphics still? Because we have technology to do it faster and more efficiently. If you could cut your time to apply app tape to 1/4 of what it takes not, why wouldn't you? I feel so good about how well this thing works I should be selling it. The people who make the product should be pushing it harder on these forums and people might realize how much time and effort they would save.

Perhaps you propose a competition like John Henry and the steam drill?

Break out your Little Giant EZ Masker or whatever flower of technology you might favor and we'll race. I'll have my piece masked before you have your Wonder Boy Masked Marvel brought to the table. But even if that were not the case, so what if your epitome of technology could manage to do the job in 1/4 or 1/8 or 1/100 the time? How much time do you spend masking vinyl anyway? What to you do when the power's off or your masking mechanism sheds a drive belt or something? There certain skills that anyone in this business should have as some sort of minimum before it's allowed to hang out its shingle.

The reason hand lettering is seldom seen is because precious few people can do it well and even fewer people want to pay for such craftsmanship. Why do you suppose the most popular type faces tend to be those that at least have the illusion of being hand lettered? Perhaps the same reason that vegetarians shape and season their tasteless gag inducing tofu to resemble meat? It's better that way?

Technology is fine but it sure as hell can't letter a truck door in as pleasing a manner as a piece of charcoal, a quill, a can of One Shot, and a skilled hand. With a lot less hullabaloo, equipment, and waste paper. I know this because I can do it either way.

Technology is no substitute for ability.

 

[edgette]

Bob,

Maybe you should actually see how the SHEETER works. There is no power, there is no drive belts, it's already attached to the side of a table and there is 0 chance you could beat anyone one compared to your method.

The hand painting was just a comparison, use any that you would like that would equate to saving a boat load of time. I've had to transfer tape over 100 yards of vinyl in a day so when you save a few hours that money adds up pretty fast.