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Used hardware store razor blades on old vinyl glass door lettering. Didn't realize I scratched the glass until just about sunset and then :eek: Two questions - Does anyone have experience buffing out scratches in glass? What have you used? What hasn't worked? Where do y'all get your stainless...

Thanks Richard!

You are correct! I had tried that but felt like the existing letters were just a bit off; once I got a higher res picture it was a perfect match. Thank you!

I know the bottom is Square but I can't figure out the top one.

I have never played with overcut. We do have problems with weeding small text on heat press material; there's often a tiny tab uncut. Do y'all use this regularly? what kind of settings do you generally use?

The nice folks on the "Friends of..." committee asked a state park for guidance and some overzealous DNR officer told them they needed to be reflective but didn't give them actual specs.

They're actually for a walking/bike trail in a park. They don't need to be made to a particular spec, they just want them to look like "real" signs. Thanks 2B and Gino I appreciate it.

If no one wants to quote me on this, does anyone have a wholesaler they like to use for this type of thing?

I need 2 18"x40", 2 12"x40", and 2 6"x40" reflective signs with radius corners like the image below. I don't care if it's on acm or aluminum.

Thanks so much! That was fast

That sounds... sticky.

I've got a local customer who wants brown reflective signage for a rail-to-trail path. I did a little googling but came up empty - anybody have an approximate Pantone for the brown the gubmint uses? It's only about 20 ft² so I was just gonna print it.

This is far from a universal solution but when it's appropriate it works. If you are applying yourself, weed out all the letter centers, apply the not-weeded lettering to the substrate, and just pull the trash off the sign. Works great with small text and the right vinyl/substrate. Be SURE to...

Oh gotcha. I always only use one piece of tape in the middle so the material self corrects. You have to tuck the corners in when they first come around but then you're all set.

What does that mean?

Ckapex one thing I do with especially expensive material and/or material that I'm only printing a little bit of (I print on heat press material sometimes and it's often just a foot or so of printing) is feed the material out so I can get to it, tape a leader on it, and back it up. I use masking...

Thank you! That's what I was REALLY hoping for but it's happened now on more than one file :confused:

When do you gets jams? I've only ever gotten them if I try to print too close to the leading edge of the material. Are you using the hold down tabs or printing edge to edge? What does that mean?

My cutter is about 5 years old, light use. It has just done this to two files in a row. On the 2 it just slid down a little and finished the cut but the S is rotated 90 and flipped! We had problems before with communication over the network but that was fixed long ago by a CAT8 patch cable...

This is important to know and comes in handy if you've ever cut your material off without leaving enough leader. Also it's a good thing it does, otherwise you'd have quite the hassle cutting material you just ran through the laminator!!