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Mirrored are pretty much the same as other window tint films. They come off with heat. Heat gun will work, but best trick I've found is a steamer. We have a bigger unit, but started out with a handheld unit from one of the big-box stores, they're reasonably priced, and handy for a lot of things...

61" lam is the way to go. There are a handful of brands that offer 61", if you don't want to hunt for a vendor that stocks them, just contact MarkSnelling (post above) to see what he can set you up with. Easy Peasy :toasting:

Locating & printing errors are usually caused by a communication problem. Make sure print driver is up to date. Try a different/ shorter/ better USB cable and see if it corrects it, use a good shielded cable, stay under 15 feet. This usually ends up solving it. Also don't have any other USB...

What cut software are you using to run it? That might help with a solution if it's a software based issue or setting.

I do a lot of print-cut graphics & logos for companies who wish to install themselves on vehicles, trailers & such. I started slapping little stickers on all of them with instructions on how to prep, and to only install dry when it's air release vinyl. Too many watch hack youtube videos where...

What we were hoping to accomplish is just making leveling more efficient, or accurate. Running long signage on buildings, pylon signs, ones with oddball shapes, mainly for elevated installs where the convenience factor would just be peachy as heck. Never really came across anything made for it...

Wondering if anyone uses, or knows of a laser level system that can be used/ seen outdoors for more accurate/ efficient installations of larger signage than using conventional levels?

Oce's have a circulation system for white, all printers that use white inks have them. White inks have have a lot of pigment, and will settle in the lines if they're not circulated, which sounds like it could possibly cause your problem.

If you go too tight to the rubber seal, edges just won't stick good, any adhesive even touching rubber will fail. Another issue is window mfgrs also use silicone to set the seal, there could also be some on the very edge of the glass along the seal, almost impossible to detect, making it another...

If you can, inspect the back side of one closely, there are a few ways to do those. With mirrored acrylic, amw's way will work, laser or routed, then paint or black vinyl. You should be able to tell if it's that on close inspection. If it seems to have vinyl on the back side, there's two...

How big are they? I'm with Weyandsign on this, why even mask it? It's a single simple shape, no lettering or anything complex, no multiple pieces that need to be held together.

It's a tough call to do it their way & put your name on something that you know will fail. Even if you tell them 100 times, too often they'll deny you told em' and still blame you. And want another one for free, of course.

It's been around for a while, but just started gaining in popularity recently as the machines became more refined. A couple companies have add-on accessories where you can add fine blast media with the dry ice for paint stripping, having the dry Ice mixed prevents it from heating up, so it...

When all else fails, go to Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Readerboard-Marquee-Sign-Panels-Tracks/dp/B008FC9542

If you ever get the chance to see a demo, or one in action, go for it! I did see the tail end of a demo done at a detail shop owned by a guy I know several years ago. He called and said "you gotta come see this", so I did. He wanted one because it can be used to clean everything from greasy...

Yeah, I'd go with foam core too. If it comes down it's not gonna hurt anyone, it only has to last for graduation day, so it doesn't pay to over engineer it (or the cost). Just flatbed print it, or lay a print on it, It's easy to cut, don't even need to laminate it if you don't want to, easy...

Less is more when laminating. Use the least amount of tension on the lam feed and liner take up that you can, just enough to keep it from having slack, and not a lot of roller pressure. What happens is if you have too much tension on the lam, it'll stretch the lam, then let some go over and...

Tint should be installed on the inside of the glass, perf goes on the outside. Unless he put the tint on the exterior, perf is the way to go, won't block the window, and will last longer.

Just like it says. They slide over signs for temporary changes. Like a t-shirt for signs. Most common use I've run across is temporary covering for parking signs.

Dry ice blasting is cool, you can do a lot more than remove vinyl, they'll clean just about anything without damaging. Just like most things though, good equipment isn't cheap. In some areas you may be able to rent them.