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To keep the overspray off the sides, I'd usually either tape them off, or use alcohol and carefully clean the edges after printing. The holes I never worried much about because the mounting hardware always covered it.

Can't speak to your particular setup, but when running print down, I get better results with a spiral upcut bit. For print side up, a downcut bit. This is using a CNC router table though, not a flatbed with a router attachment. FWIW, I just always cut the material first and printed after to...

No, there was a menu on the machine (in maintenance, maybe?) that allowed you to calibrate the media. It makes marks at 0' and 10' that you measure for accuracy, and adjust. If not properly calibrated, the issue you mentioned is a possibility. I would also suggest you rotate (180 degrees) every...

Studs or pin mounts should be fine. I usually do 3/8" deep on 1/2 (12mm) PVC. And make sure to put a piece of tape on the tap as a stopper so you don't go too deep.

I seem to recall there's a way to calibrate the printer's feed that might bring them a bit closer in line to each other, but it's been about 10 years since I ran one of them, so I don't remember what menu it was under. I also seem to recall you're going to burn about 10' (3m +\-) of material.

Filler and sandpaper are pretty much the standard unless you have the ability to cast them- which comes with its own finishing challenges. I say filler and sandpaper because we've produced somewhere along the lines of of 1,200 or so reverse letters so far this year, and every single one of them...

I would 100% help out. I don't know that I'm as generous as Damon, doing it for free (depending on what it was), but I'd definitely offer what they needed at a wholesale rate.

Everyone's mentioned most of what I see, except (I think, I may have missed a post)... you say this is going on your property and will be seen from a highway. I assume that means traffic on said highway moves at highway speed. Even at a reduced rate, my thought is that you have too much copy for...

Best of luck to you!

I think it totally depends on what kind of presentation you're giving your customer. Both have their merits for proofs/concept drawings. A better system is to get your own photos and measurements of the vehicle receiving the graphics. That way, you know the sizes are correct (or should be, if...

I came to look up a post about them I made a decade ago and it's gone. Damned shame, because it was a pretty detailed account of just how terrible the experience with their printers was, and it might have save someone a whole heap of trouble/headache.

PVC is the material. Sintra is a brand name. PVC Sintra is redundant.

I used a stock 3D mesh in EnRoute and "roughed" it up a bit to get the texture, and the print was a wood grain that we used used for a different customer's items, with some Photoshop tweaks to get it looking weathered, and to get it where it could be tiled. I didn't bother trying to get a...

I did this exact thing about five years ago. Had a customer that wanted to line his gun safe with reclaimed wood panels (or whatever it's called) but didn't want to pay the cost. Instead (and I can't believe this was cheaper), I set up and ran 300 some-odd sq ft on the router, creating a 3D...

Zip change track can be installed with rivets, if needed. I like Ryze Signs' suggestion about the wood. That would look nicer, I think. Probably not particularly durable if they want to use it outdoors, though.

You might be able to fudge your way with some extrusion (J molding or the like), but that's overkill in my opinion. I'd use polycarbonate (available from Wagner) if concerned about plastic durability.

The only other thing I can think of (besides calling Multicam) is have someone with the same software look at the file and get some "fresh eyes" on it. If you want to send the DNC and EnRoute files to me, I can try taking a look at 'em. We run a Multicam 3000 series, but I'd imagine the G-Code...

My first guess was that the surface somehow got set to the bottom of the plate (in your file setup) instead of the top, but then I wouldn't think the first pass would go down, either. Couldn't hurt to check, though. (In EnRoute, this is an option when you create a new plate- it's a "check box"...

If I didn't read the description, I'd think that was a pounce tool.

Pretty much the same as you, but absolutely no production until samples are approved, either (if you included that, I missed it).