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I'm also curious as to what you mean by "flood coating".... And also by "large job" (large quantity or large letters?)... If it's a large quantity, I'd find a close acrylic color and offer that to the customer, alternately, I'd paint the letters. For a large quantity, applying vinyl will be a...

Your method of mounting is the most efficient that I could think of this early in the morning, a third of the way into my coffee, with my router buzzing in the background. I'd also say yes- the adhesive could be "gumming up" the bit. Depending on how you're cutting, you could also be pulling the...

^^^ Everything here is good advice. From every time I've ever been in the market, the tool changer is the item that adds the most to the price, whereas a longer (or wider) table doesn't add nearly as much. Personally, unless I was working exclusively with 4'x8' sheets, I'd get a 5' x 12'. This...

I'm a little confused by your question- are you looking for software suggestions to create the vector files, or plot them? With Illustrator, you basically have what you need- just download the Graphtec Cutting Master plug-in. You don't mention what printer you're using for your wraps, but your...

It's V3 fiberglass. Haven't done one with that in a very long time, but I sort of recall getting it from a regular plastic provider.

As to your question, I'd charge an hourly rate rather than a square foot price for the removal. If it comes off easy, then you may "lose" a little revenue, but if you quote a square foot price and it ends up taking a long time, you're going to be in the hole for all of the extra time it takes...

Don't know what they're called, but pretty much every shop I've ever been in has had one- usually "home made". A Google search of "transfer tape dispensers" might get you started.

Happy to see this was resolved, because I've been running various MultiCam models for 20 years or so, and they usually run great- though I freely admit their tech support is sometimes slow.

Yeah, we do ADA as well- but, since I'm not a merchant member, I'm not hawking my wares via not answering the OP's question- which was about what type/and who makes them. The degradation you refer to is due to the age of the sign- and the fact that it's in some sort of school and doubtless...

That particular sign was produced with the photopolymer method. A lot of different wholesalers can do that for you.

Absolutely- and I haven't used CMX since 2005 or so for that reason (and I'm running Corel's last release) . But I also don't send anything to EnRoute except what I need, so I can't comment on the clipping mask issue.

I'm guessing those drawings might be a few years old.

I've never had good luck with anything but EPS from Corel to EnRoute, though the others Atilla mentions will work in a pinch- with CMX being almost as bad as DXF, as far as extra nodes and rough lines.

Croeso from just outside of Atlanta, GA.

I cannot recall the adhesion promoter's manufacturer. I suggest checking with the manufacturer of your printer for what they recommend. If that's not doable, try asking your print media supplier.

No, not all PVC is print ready (though many can be printed on with no problem), and yes- you get a particular "flavor" (usually called "Digital" or some variation of that). Alternatively, you could use an adhesion promoter.

The only way I ever got usable results was by doing an outline of the letters/shapes just slightly bigger than the diameter of the finishing bit and doing a rough out of that. Once that was done, I'd do the final clean out with the inlay using a downcut bit. That said, the results weren't...

What I'd check: - Blade depth - Cutting pressure (or force- different manufacturers call it different things) - Cutting speed All of those should be adjustable. Test with scrap until it works the way you want it to, then write down your settings. Most plotters have different tool settings...

Apologies. I must have misunderstood the original post. Good luck. Does Accubend's current software not support the model you have? It might be worth upgrading- depending on the quantity you're producing. I know we'd be boned without a bender.

If you use the same file to cut your faces that you do to cut the backs, it's pretty much guaranteed the faces won't fit. The faces should be larger that the backs- even if doing the return bending by hand. If you care to know, here's the process: - The original file/size is what you cut your...