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There's not just one kind of "lit". Halo lit is just one of three options I can think of off the top of my head, along with internally and externally lit. The example Albert Cyrus shows above is another option, but I've never seen that type use for external signage (not saying they couldn't be...

If you're able to export from Flexi, there used to be a box to check to convert fonts to curves. Uncheck that, if it still exists (I don't use Flexi on this workstation, so I can't confirm that option still exists). The text will probably have weird breaks and kerning (at least, that's how it...

Was is a dry or wet app? If dry, try wet. If wet, squeegee with firm, even pressure.

Best I can remember (been a minute since I used/worked with HDU), you have to prime/sand/prime again until you have a good surface (no holes that the paint can migrate/soak into). Once you have a smooth surface, painting usually is a snap. From the photos, it looks like it wasn't primed...

I'm not a fan of putting printing white trans on a white sheet. It always seems to make the white look gray. I'm also sorta picky, so... you'd probably be fine. I would definitely go with polycarbonate.

Had a design firm's "boy wonder" insisting that the black translucent I used (it was really matte black, but whatever) on the faces of the push-thru copy on their sign should light up black. I was very calmly explaining that the translucent black that the vinyl manufacturer's sell isn't actually...

+1 on this. Stuff works so much better than the regular weather stripping that people usually use to replace worn out gaskets- mainly because they make it specifically for these machines.

Been a minute since I used Flexi on a frequent basis, but I think you point to your Adobe directory for that.

Yeah, UV will fade. Laminated (liquid laminate for these, obviously) solvent prints would do so much slower. Some colors (red springs immediately to mind) will fade quicker than others. Also, no matter what- banners are temporary signage and will, in all likelihood, rip or blow away long before...

Not that I know the "right" answer here (and it certainly looks like UV damage). I'd also venture a guess that the property never cleans their signs, and there was a "healthy" build up of dirt and grime on that seam.

Not knocking Colex, because they're good cutters, but they're not really production (i.e., heavy duty) routers- no matter what attachments you put on them. My assumption (though I may be wrong) was that the OP wants a true CNC router.

Glad you've had good luck with your Biesse, astro8 - the one I used was a freaking nightmare from the get-go (95% of it, was 100% Biesse's fault, 5% was company management). I posted a detailed list of what went wrong with them. For that reason, my advice would be to run the other direction from...

Yes, they involve some $$$ outlay- plus the time it takes to learn to use them properly, and to set up your profiles. In the long run, though, they will assure that you turn out quality work that can be redone when needed with no difference in color.

The most commonly used one is the X-Rite brand. Since they make a number of different models, look into each of them before deciding- and it might be a good idea to ask the printer manufacturer or rep which one works best with their hardware.

Most shops will print a large (48" or so wide x whatever) PMS swatch sample and put it up in their printer's area to more easily match colors- because just because it's supposed to be PMS032 (as an example), the printer doesn't hit that color and they end up adding/subtracting ink levels to get...

Brad, if you search the forum, I wrote a detailed list of issues that I'd had with the DCS printer and their "support". Too late to make you reconsider now, but maybe it'll help in some way?

Use application fluid.

Best guess is that it's the system (Windows) version of the font your customer used. If the file names don't match, a lot of programs will see fonts as "missing".

Duxbury is (or was) the plug in that most programs use for translation. It will do Type I or Type II Braille. If your UV printer offers the "ADA" option, then it should have a program that allows you to do the Braille correctly. There are some online converters that you can copy/paste the info...

"The downside of any automation is you will never find a canned solution that will do everything you want or need and all automation implementations will take a lot of labor." ^^^ This right here. A lot of shops will buy/subscribe, then get fed up because of the work required on the front end...