I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes.
Click to Support Signs101 ...
I couldn't agree more. The main use I have for it is for clients of mine that want their lettering small and not vinyl. Previously they were using a silkscreen vendor who silkscreened wall text direct on the wall. So I saw this as a possible solution.
I am considering buying one. Just wondering what the general sign making communities thoughts are on this machine.
https://thewallprinter.com/en/
Thoughts, experience, wait and see?
I have turned away too many clients for jobs that are needed as cut lettering but too small to do as cut lettering. What is this process and what machine makes it possible?
https://unikportrait.com/products/3d-transfer-labels
I will share the file with you tomorrow for sure.
I understand what you mean about later printing. I will print again and see if the LM prints later. Wouldnt that require it moving the material backwards though?
I think you are right. Initially when I printed months ago I saved the RIP...
I would like to understand the machine and potentially a bigger issue. I have thrown printheads at this type of problem before with no change. It could be, but I am trying to learn the machine and other possible factors before turning to that default fix. I think my problem is worse than this...
I did a CMYK LC AND LM print. Also attaching the ML shots of each head. THey are 2 years old but not that much ink as far as I understand. Awaiting some repsonses here to see if swapping a head is what it could be given the test print and head life seems fine?
All the heads are firing proper as far as the printhead test and force drop test indicates, (do your tests indicate this when greys shift? just curious cause this means the tests are useles) but the most important difference (conflicting circumstance) is that other files are printing fine, it...
Ugh, I am so confused. I will PAY $$$ a tutor for this. Anyone interested? I am dead serious as my clients are all museums that demand color consistency and it drives me crazy as I have no idea what I am doing.
Thank you. Thats what I figured. I am new to creating new profiles, any links you know of that offer good tutorials on how to do it? As I understand I basically clone a profile and run through the menus and test prints to find the perfect triad of saturation, temperature and pass count?
Yes did a color calibration, 2x. And tried a new roll of 3M. In the end I used the "all ICC profiles off" option in Onyx and it printed way better, but this only seems like a bandaid. Originally these prints came out great using my 3M Ij35c profile (out of the box from 3M profile), but a few...
Thats what I thought at first, but other prints are going fine, and all the PH tests are running totally normal, no broken lines and force drip is all below 20.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.