I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes.
Click to Support Signs101 ...
I think your right on the movement. I discovered when I do not hook it up to the take up reel the problem went away completely. Not even a whiff of haloing. Crispy clear letters now about 10 jobs through. Of course I now have color match problems. (see my most recent thread) the fun never ends...
I have an HP latex 315 I am running ONYX. A couple months ago I printed about 2000 stickers for a client on 3M ij35c. The bleed border and base (lightest parts) were color matched from the color matching system. The overall image came out perfect and had a purple tone to it. Today the client...
tHe problem is back, after many rounds of the same prints, I had to do a large mural printed on vinyl almost 4 rolls of material color photograpsh. That print went fine, now I am back to printing these small labels on phototext and the haloing is back. So far I have tried all my tricks that...
Looking for some large format installers in NYC area. We geenrate about 30-60k in installations a year. Need people who are proficient in indoor murals and floor murals.
I am printing on a HP 315 latex via ONYX. I'm making a mural with about 11 tiles, its an image that repeats so the tile numbering is crucial to installing it. I set it up in marks to print the Row# the Column# and the overlap. I did not check "copy information". The first two tiles that printed...
I have a client who does not want to use a floor lamination. So the risks to the client are that someone could slip and sue, so I want to absolve myself of that liability, Anyone out here have a generic legal waiver to that effect?
I have an HP latex 315. A while ago I made a print of about 10 tiles 50" x 10 feet on each tile. On the last tile it did not line up vertically The last tile was about 2" off in height. I was able to work around it as it was a line graphic (not a photograph) and have found by reading threads...
I figured out the problem. The black type was a process black. I went into onyx and rest the black to 80% with all other colors to 0. Problem completely solved. text is crisp and different bolds and light fonts are perfect in all sizes
I agree turn the marks inward, make sure the material is in their straight too. I also set my marks to 1" margins. Whenever I go lower I get misalignment issues like your having.
I am new to wrapping. I have explored 3M, and Orafol products. I have a car I'd like to practice on until I am proficient. I am looking for vendor or product recommendations as I have only come up with these 2 so far and I know there are more from the trade shows I have been to but I lost all my...
Is there a trick or jig? I got the cheapest clamshell from Sign Warehouse. It does not have a swing away armature so I have to set the shirt on the foam pad inches below the hot plate. It would be great to be able to do this off the press. But even better would be if I could set up some sort of...
I figured out the problem! I went into the service menu and did the Force Drip detection. I wish I had known about this test before. It states in numbers how many nozzles are clogged / not firing. The head for black was missing 65 nozzles. I cleaned it the CB head 5 times and it brought that...
I've been having this problem for a few years. Sometimes I can work around it, others I can't and just can't deliver a print that resembles the grey its supposed to be. Light grey/ sliver tones are printed with reddish hues. Regardless of material it happens. All my other tones and colors are...
I use static cling on my 315. I renamed the profile so I forget which one I am using and where it came from. However just a note on static cling is that it spoils quick. Prints can get spotty, so wipe with rub alcohol if its been sitting around. Otherwise great stuff to work with,
When you convert a file in photoshop from RGB to CMYK what profile is best to use? Euroscale uncoated, Coated, SWOP2, GRAcol, etc..... to is it best to just leave it as an RGB file and let Onyx do the work?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.