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Back in my Roland days I used the same style bulk system as brightbanner does. These systems are only a couple hundred bucks or less, and if you have to get chips, you'll probably spend less than $250, plus inks of course. Plenty of places sell them, you can even get them on Amazon today. Easy...

School of racing graphics... They have templates for all different classes of race cars. https://schoolofracinggraphics.com/products/vector-racing-graphics/race-car-templates/

Adding one to the arsenal was the best investment ever! Better alternative than messing up a $20,000+ laminator for laying graphics, a single roller for our Seal alone cost about 3x what this was :oops:

Have you tried different profiles to see if it changes? Did you put the head in the high position and forget to lower it? Odd that it would be just the one color and the cyan test prints are ok... On a single head unit things usually stay uniform across colors, but there are other adjustments...

I replace dampers annually, head caps semi-annually. Yes, they will usually last longer, but why wait for something to fail. It's best to replace all dampers at once for even ink flow through all. I can park the printer for a week, or run it 10 hours daily, and don't get drop outs. As far as...

For 2x6" graphics, you could probably just hand laminate them with a squeegee. That's brilliant. I don't "need" a flatbed laminator enough to justify the cost, but it sure would be handy at times. We have a glass top lighted table we built, and I've been eyeing up that video myself. Who knows...

2" tall for a semi? Like USDOT numbers? We do hundreds of those, just cut colored sign vinyl, no need to print or laminate, they'll still be good a decade down the road.

We picked up a manual one a few months ago too, just for laminating small stuff, proofs, samples, and applying vinyl to substrates. Great having that extra capability to use up end rolls & scraps of laminate on small jobs, you can lay 4x8 prints to substrates in a minute or two... And they're so...

Usually ends up being head caps or dampers when you have to chase problems like that. When was the last time they were replaced? I'd start with making sure there's ink in the lines, no air bubbles, and dampers have ink in them. I've had a couple of incidents with our Mimaki where it didn't...

Wow, no experience with that model, but it looks like something Roland should have had some sort of preventative cleaning/ lubricating maintenance procedure for.

I use Oralite 5650RA for stuff like that. It's a 7 year, prints awesome, cuts clean, has air release for easy application. It also isn't as hard on blades as other reflective vinyls, on a Summa I'd use a 55 degree blade, and don't run it too fast.

Salmon tacos... Can't see that without thinking of King of the Hill. I watch waaay too much of this stuff :p

Yeah, that's not good... Best way to keep em' running good is regular maintenance and cleaning. The dampers have filters in them, never changing them is akin to changing oil in your car and never replacing the filter... Eventually it's going to plug and not let anything through. SInce ink is...

Check for ink flow, if lines are empty or have air in them it's hard to get it back just by cleaning cycles. I've had my yellow lines go completely empty a couple of times when a cartridge went empty and didn't detect it. Fill ink can work, but I had to bleed it manually. If you have to do that...

If memory serves me right, the XC feeds forward on the 2nd pass of the test print with the head over the printed area, and it looks like something is rubbing in the feed direction... You might not have needed that new head, if my hunch is right, check the bottom of the head carriage/ head...

Use a high tac vinyl designed for low energy plastics (3M, Avery, Oracal, Prizm, pretty much all have them), a polycarb or floor lam, and it helps to do like Sightline says to have the lam larger than the print.

One of ours is glass, the other has a sheet of clear poly-carbonate on it. It ain't self healing, but it'll take some abuse.

I'd just print white vinyl with the blue & black, laminate it, cut it, and call it a day. Cheap, quick & easy, no adhesion issues... You just won't get UV inks to stick to already laminated colored wrap vinyl, they're not meant for printing. Even if you do get it to stick long enough to apply...

Just because a UV will print on just about anything doesn't mean it'll adhere. Colored wrap films that fall into the 1080, 2080, and other series are because the vinyl and adhesive properties are the same, not print-ability. They aren't coated for print, they're coated with a lam to repel...

Oracal 820, available in 55"x150'. What ever happened to creative use of rattle rockets for tagging? Using decals seems kinda lame and lazy.