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We print on our latex all the time... It does a nice opaque black. I wouldn't do a CMYK 4 color screenprint, or anything that requires super tight registration as the films.never perfectly align... But for stuff like traffic / 2-3 colors that can be a mm off, latex works great. We use a film...

You can just swap them. It's easy to remove the bar, when I bought my graphtec I got three extra wheels and added them myself. Not 3 weeks earlier we had a different graph Tech we bought, added two wheels, the tech didit and didn't do any adjustments. The tension on them is adjustable, if it is...

PVC / Sintra is more picky then aluminum, imo. We cut it at a faster spindle / feed rate to get the cleanest cut. So a cheapo $400 CNC that likely uses a handheld router may not do the best work. I'm all for cheapo devices - I just bought a 10k laser, I bought a cheap $250 3d printer.... I've...

3m is in the midst of replacing their liners on a lot of materials. Ij35c is now a blue backer that says scotchcal and looks almost identical to ij40c. We've had some rolls of ij35 that has named backer.... And some that doesn't. It all depends on which factory it was made in - but yes...

It doesn't tell you it changed it. But what you do is select color picker and hilight it, and it should be changed to the. Value that you have it setup to change to. Again, it only works on specific profiles that you setup the match to, that's why it's called "print mode" so even changing...

If you click setup, rip configuration, color matching table - Goto print mode defined. Select your material and print mode (this is the annoying part... I wish it was set material / printer wide, but it's not. We don't use too many different profiles so it works for us) Select your print mode...

Yes, you have to change it in onyx otherwise Onyx will change the values to what it thinks it needs to be. Your other option is to turn profiles off so it has no color correct, that way it will take your input values and use them without changing them. It's very hard to get non-printer people...

How old are the 69 bags? Don't forget ink has a shelf life. Did the machine say you're out of ink, or did it just say low?... You can run it until it says it's out, then it'll ask you to put a new one in (even mid print) without causing issues 99% of the time. Our machine has always sucked...

Is someone at hp really trying to sell printers directly through here with bold claims like highest quality printer / no smell? :roflmao: I'd expect that from a new distributor trying to sell a printer, not an hp rep.

Maybe post the video so we know what sound you're talking about?

Don't factory reset... You'll lose all your profiles ( unless I'm wrong?) Get the service pin, or get your tech to come and enter it. It'll tell you what the username and password is.

Find me one laser vendor, or PVC vendor that says cutting PVC on a laser is ok... No matter what setup you have, and I'll admit I'm wrong. You cant setup a buffer between the laser and the material - The second the vapor hits the laser, its corroding all the metal parts... Exactly how much...

Wait a minute.... Is that a dancer bar? Is material supposed to be wound behind it and then taped up so it doesn't flap around like crazy? When printing on a fast speed the thing flaps around so much, it's always been so scary. We sent videos to our tech / installer and were told it's normal...

The correct tool for the job is one that makes you money. I wouldn't flatbed print on warped material that caused headstrikes and extra wear and tear on my machine because the customer wanted me to. Why cut something that corrodes your $40-75000 machine to do a one off? Even if it only takes...

It's not too hard to take off, however the part is discontinued so finding it will be a problem :(

You can't laser PVC, it's like the biggest "no no" in laser cutting. When you laser PVC you produce hydrochloric acid - you may be able to vent it outside, but you won't be able to vent all of it. Ontop of that, it's a corrosive and it damages your laser. Will it die after cutting 1 or 2...

Our 3M Rep, actually. 8518 adhesive has a very, very slight yellow tinge to it, thats what prevents it from being "100% optically" clear - But it is still considered an "Optically clear", And is on the 3M MCS with their window perf as being approved to use.... and actually recommended to us over...

If you have 8518 you can use that.. 3M considers it optically clear, and it's usually a bit cheaper than true optically clear

Never pay your installers an hourly rate, an hourly rate is for your employees only. We usually tallyup how much material it will take up, email the job proof to the installers, how much square feet it is and ask for a square foot price. Charge by the hour and it will take twice as long to...

I've bought and sold a few things on Facebook. People tend to try to lowball you, so add a thousand or so to the price you want