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You are not going to see any color improvement by running the (un-warranted) non-CMYK inks. You are going to see wraps fading quicker that use those colors.

I don't know on your particular printer, but on the one I had you just clean the strip behind the head (all the way across the printer). It's a little clear strip with a million thin vertical lines that indicate the head's location across the printer. There is a sensor on the back of the head...

When I used to deal with that error it was from the linear encoder sensor misreading where the head position was at; the carriages were physically still together, it just thought they were at different locations from the response from the encoder sensor. Dirty encoder or encoder reader...

If it shows up more in the green, try to isolate exactly which color (head) is causing the banding you see in it. Make up some solid Cyan / Magenta / Yellow / Black (etc) blocks and be sure in your RIP that they are only outputting that channel (head) in that area. That way you can isolate which...

We normally use 3M 8150 clear, but currently getting it is a problem. I have heard many times of people using just regular cast laminate.

Onyx.

Looks great! Can you tell me more about the diffuser? I'm very green with LED lighting like this and would love to know more about diffusers available for them.

You cannot without the program. You have to depressurize the system through it to remove the heads and then to do other stuff. D1 forgot once and ink went EVERYWHERE here. Ruined the mainboard, a wall, the floor, lots of stuff. HOWEVER, some people here might be able to locate that software for...

I would do the flush/fill on those channels again, but it might be shot. I cannot remember, but can you park the head and soak it overnight with fluid in the caps on this machine? I wonder if the caps are sealing/lining up correctly when it is cleaning. Another thing I've tried before is to just...

I mentioned above another decent JPEG viewer, I've been using it a few months since I first encountered issues with my app and it seems to do pretty well. https://sourceforge.net/projects/jpegview/

I recommend Trigon Imaging for your equipment. They take care of you, even after the sale, if you have issues.

Sounds like the actual "X?" (across) axis motor or gear is bad. I know the gear can lose teeth and the motor can also go out. We replaced these on older Mimaki printers with similar issues and heavy use.

What vinyl & laminate are you using? Is it an interior or exterior wall? What type of paint/primer? There are a lot of factors that go into successful wall wraps.

Maybe using InDesign?

We ordered 10 or so rolls yesterday from either Grimco or Fellers, but they were 54". I can find gloss, but luster is an issue right now.

Print it with a half inch overlap like you would on a wrap. Locate the overlap location on the window. Use the knifeless tape and lay down a straight run under that seam area. Install the panels and pull the tape, and you have a perfect seam.

Theres a lot of factors here, but I want to add in that the base factor; low end vinyl, is the main culprit here. That would probably have failed if printed on any type of printer.

Have you tried this product? https://hartcoservice.com/sandmask/ I used to know someone who worked there, but that's been years ago. I know it is made in Ohio, so you might be able to call/order direct.

I use the standard (custom) profile we use for our wraps and everything else. However, in Onyx I add 10% to each color since phototex prints so flat/dull.

Yes, it does help to have heat assist. I recommend the GFP563th.