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We have a skidril, also. I don't have experience with anything else(other than manually slamming it in the ground) but for the money, it's been well worth the investment. We use it for square tube.

I know this is an old thread but I had to refer back to it today and wanted to express my thanks again to Eric(aka Vector Doctor) for posting it. And also thanks to Fred for supplying a great way to find and retrieve this info in just a few moments.

I agree. Answering a question with a question is rather asinine. Who would do such a thing? And perhaps more importantly, why? Thanks for the entertainment today, bob. I'm well versed in the method bob describes to move the origin. I can't find that there's a user editable setting to...

Why ask why?

When media is loaded, the front media sensor finds the edge of the media and then retracts the media back about a 1/2" an inch which becomes the default origin point. I'm wondering if we can change the setting for how much the media retracts(or advances) after the media sensor finds the edge of...

Lots of good advice. I recommend meeting with your local SBA office/advisor. Investigate their 504 loan program to see if it's a good fit for you. Purchase it in a new LLC and rent it to your operating company. Be patient. Purchasing a commercial property is a process which can be very...

Since I did St. Paul and our guys did Geek Wraps, I can't speak to the differences. My sense is that they both cover the same skills. From a certification point of view, there are some differences. I'm afraid that I don't remember exactly what they are so if certification is important, you...

I got certified in St. Paul and we sent two of our guys to Geek Wraps in Florida. Though we also had a very good grasp on wrapping/application, we still learned a lot and it was worth the investment.

I just had Harbor cut some letters for a project that were approx 6'x12' out of .080 alum. They also keep 6x12 sheets in .125 alum.

The power of Google: http://mccallphotographics.com/acrylic-face-mounting/ This is the company that did the prints I saw and they pretty much outline the process in the link(and others on their site). 1.5" concealed wood frame and z-clip, .040 polystyrene backer, print, optically clear face...

Reverse printed on media and applied to the acrylic with an optically clear face adhesive (something like a Gudy 909)? Or flat bed printed to the second surface of the acrylic? (Which would then require a flood coat of white behind or a white film?)

Last one.

Another pic. My phone will only let me post one at a time.

I went on a field trip with my son today to the Natural History Museum. They had an awesome photo exhibit and I'd love to know how the prints were produced. Starting from the wall and going out, there is an approximately 1.5" standoff system that is completely concealed by the print. Next is...

I wrapped a race car in Avery's chrome red. Since it's a round track car, I didn't stress about it being perfect(because it gets scuffed up quite a bit). It's definitely different than other wrap films. It can't be stretched as far and is harder to hide seams. If you do stretch it or heat it too...

LOL! Have a great day, player!

Used the new gun for a couple jobs. So far it's performed as advertised. Pretty awesome. Set the temp you want the surface to get to and if you don't move the gun, it adjusts the heat it's putting out to maintain the temp you've set. Lightweight and compact. It's legit. Hopefully it stays that way.

We ordered one. I'll let you know how it works.

Vee have vays of getting it cheaper...

It's *supposed* to measure the surface temp and then adjust the supplied heat according to the temperature you've set. So let's say you dial your post heat temp in at 200 degrees and go to work. If you move too quickly, it would try to compensate by giving more heat. Too slowly - less heat...