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Unless HP decides they want your money, and make the 300 range obsolete like they did with the 200 range.

I’ll post more detail when I’m in front of my mac.

I converted my L280 to CMYK only some years ago after getting tired if the light colour issues. So the replacement pattern for me works out fine from 831 to 792 heads. The 831 head colour is either the same or a light version, so 2-3 head primes and I’m good to go. My problem now is the...

I'm not familiar with the brand here in South Africa, but have had similar issues on some PVC. Our issues weren't heat related, it was vacuum and tension related. So I would lower the vacuum down to just enough to keep the media flat, and then I would print roll to sheet, so no take-up roll...

Mine is kinda sign related. I was in the final stages of talks with S.A's leading equipment supplier for a new wide format printer. So while standing and talking about the latest demo (a NUR Fresco drum based printer of some sort - yes, that long ago) I feel something in my jeans just above my...

For PRINTHEADS I'm using 831 printheads and replacing the chip with a 792 chip. Works fine, but I suspect the printer is reading the usage and altering the voltages to the head, as there is a minor print difference between the 792 and 831 printhead if you do a status plot. But, it works and...

I've always ensured the RIP station has a direct connection to any wide format press. In fact, they run on a separate NIC. So one card that talks to the rest of my network, and then a dedicated one that only speaks to the printer, nothing else. Even if the local network router or hub has a bit...

Here's another version you can keep on hand.

Flatten the entire image prior to exporting for print - should resolve the issue. PS - JPG can't handle transparency. Probably a TIFF or PNG, but not a JPG.

Nope. Dirt on the drive encode will provide consistent shifting, not a clear cut shift like this. This is software, not hardware.

Anybody got HIS number ...? Wouldn't mind a piece of that. The bank account that is.

When last have you done a print advance/print size calibration on the printer? There's a few things that can "go out", but doing these calibrations would be my first step.

Stupid question - have you ensured your isolator switches on the rear panel are all in the on position? Your startup errors sounds fairly similar to having one of the rear switches in the tripped position. I know you're getting a specific message, but check the switches on the rear.

This is my status message. Enjoy.

I can't recall exactly, but this is where the technicians manual comes in. Mine in busy printing a long run of PVC, so I can't even pop into the mode right now, but this mode will definitely be the point where I start to trouble-shoot.

As you power on the printer all the lights will come on on the control panel for a few seconds. While they are all lit you need to press the following combination, one after the other - Cancel (red X) Home Question/Help (?) If you've done this correctly the printer will start up in Diagnostic...

To be clear - have you booted into the advance service menu prior to the printer starting up. The mode allows for a massive array of component testing to be done by the printer itself.

Do you have a copy of the technician's manual? If not I can assist you with a copy as long as it's not against the rules of the administrators (bit of a newbee on the forums).

I second the idea of some kind of protection. Maybe a teflon strip, the kind you get with a adhesive back. I suppose as long as it's not forcing the echain to bend more than allowed for it's fine. Is there any room to fit your own support?

We have a Summa D140R as our main go-to cutter and it's served us very well. We've never needed a technician, consistent output and fairly fast. That being said all I can stress is to stay well away from cheap no name, re-badged brands. Stick with the well-known brands like Summa, Roland...