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hi tack vinyl that sh#* sticks to anything. arlon pdf 8000, avery-hi-tack i think all brands have a version of it

i don't use corel but can't you save as an eps or pdf. as far as i know you need a spot color with in your file with the metallic (or white) color swatch for versawork to read it and print what you want.

it's pretty cool so far Gene. ours runs off compressed air, we have a whole filter system set up for it. the software is laserlink. just starting to get familiar with it, really don't know a whole lot yet. figured i see who else had a laser in case we need some advise. we are cutting 5/8 plywood...

don't know about canada but N. glantz and harbor sale both have it

we just got a coherent metabeam laser. just wondering if anyone on here has a laser? didn't see a laser section in the forum. don't need any help...YET but i am sure there will be questions and issues along the way.

the customer is a friend of mine and has given me a few jobs so trying to help him out. the guy doing the detailing quoted him like $600 to remove the lettering when i can remove it with my vinyl zapper in a couple hours for $200

got a box truck job, have to remove the old lettering and clean it up but the customer wants to have it detailed afterwards before i letter it. the truck has some small cosmetic things he wants to spruce up before we re-letter it. some scratches, a little rust around the rivets on the back door...

haven't done that before but i think you have two options, a seam with an over lap or just heat and stretch the right amount right over. you may have some trial and error to go through but once you get the right combo of stretch and heat you should be ok. just don't be real aggressive with it...

this is the proper and best way to do it if you can take it apart and remove it but not as easy as it sounds. either way if you go over with one piece of vinyl and work it in to the area you have to cut you should be able to run a razor knife or xacto knife around the edge and get it pretty spot...

i have vending customer and do this all the time. i have done it both ways. so far the best is to put on one sheet and cut out as you go along. sometimes when you pre cut with the plotter the vinyl will stretch and the holes are off.

that technique also works good for weeding sheets of labels/decals. the laminator holds the sheet down and you can weed with two hands. one to pull the scrap vinyl and one to maneuver and push the labels back down.

peel about an inch or two of the mask back then put the vinyl in your laminator (assuming you have a laminator) then insert the vinyl in the laminator and slowly pull the mask off away from the laminator. the laminator will hold it tight and flat.

any possibility the shipping company screwed up the original box and tried to re-pack it? i have see that happen before. maybe a combo of bad shipping from the manufacturer and the shipping company. either way that sucks

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/485832O/destructible-vinyl-label-material-7613t-7930t.pdf

not sure the cost but try harborsales.net order 4x8 sheet and have them cut the whole sheet what ever shapes you need and you will have a few on the shelf for future runs

we used a 3rd party ink in our rolands years ago and had some capping station issues so we swore we would never do it again not worth the risk. we recently (about 4-6 months ago) started using nazdar's ink in our roland xc with no issues. we had a few reasons we chose to take the risk with...

definitely go with sublimation so you can get the curve of your arm and if all else fails just carve it in with your xacto knife and pour your waste ink over it then wipe and wa-la

this is probably how it was done but we also do a two way decal for a security company that we need to use a special adhesive per the customer request so we print 2 sided on a .007 white material and mount the adhesive separately with our laminator

we don't have a grizzly but we do have 6 metal shears we use and they cut aluminum, alum composite, coro and sintra with no problem (actually sometimes the sintra is an issue. apparently it has a grain to it so sometimes it cuts one direction fine but when you cut the other direction it will...

i have always found issues printing solid colors on static cling whether it was with my edge or solvent printers. for the edge putting the masking tape could help. you could also try wiping down the material as it goes through with a dryer sheet to help reduce the static build up. best printing...