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No worries - but treat the encoder strip like a valuable jewel made of fragile glass, and worth more than the belt you're replacing! The tiniest sproing & slip and a minute kink, and the speedy head will vibrate the encoder strip into oblivion as it tries to boot up.

I've done it 3 times on the 260. Google the service manual. It's a 680 page download. It's very good. Finding all the screws you need to undo to get the right end off is a challenge the first time- there are only about 7, but 1 or 2 are inside the front window. Carefully remove the display...

1mm...? we use only 3mm, and keep a sheet or two of the 2000 x 600 size engraver's brass on hand. My experience with thinner stuff is the headaches & gremlins that sneak in are not worth the minor substrate cost saving- besides a plaque in real brass, as opposed to gold-coloured aluminium...

Thanks- that worked - the 2nd file contained only one DLL file though - is that correct?

OK, thanks - and unpack it with zip being in the middle of the file name? or just rename it as .prinst ?

I removed the first zip, and tried 7-zip and they would not unpack. Any ideas - and thanks for the download. (I had tried another printinst, 6 months ago when a friend needed it, which turned out to be an apparent virus of about 750kb in size.)

Dirty looking prints are often a sign the heads need a good cleaning - there may even be gunk under them. Run the head cleaning routing 3 or 4 times, and then do a test print. Smudgy prints are a sign the ink has not cured. You can put a hot-air gun over them yourself, manually, till they do...

They look pretty cold to me... is the ink curing & drying so it does not smudge?

I thought they were totally parallel, not tapered... in which case it ought not to matter- but I've only ever installed Chinese fresh ones on our Roland plotters - getting the 2nd washers to stick while putting the pin through is a challenge!

Go to Mimaki's website. Look for the Finecut downloads/upgrades. Each 'upgrade' is a full version, as opposed to being a partial improvement and needing a previous version for the rest of the files. The FC installer looks for an original cd or dvd - I forget if it must be a cd rather than a dvd...

You can download FC from the Mimaki site - there are umpteen different versions depending on whether you have Win7, 8, 10, and which version of Corel Draw or Illy you may be using. There's no one-version-suits-all. But getting it to work is the test. The win 10 version needs extra windows files...

Corel X3 straight to old Roland Camm1 plotters, and to Finecut 8 to a Mimaki plotter. It works for us.

Thanks. (The hyperlink was not visible as anything different from the rest on my PC.)

I was having a similar problem with yellows being very non yellow, despite a head clean looking ok. It turned out there was a tiny bit of fluff under the head, with had the actoof smearing black minutely - you could barely tell, but it deflected things.. passing macking tape , sticky side up...

Thanks - as below - when I look at it, there's no 'word' and no hyperlink, clickable... weird.

The original post seems invisible to me - only the replies I can see...?

The biggest thing is, "What is your gut telling you?" Instinct is worth trusting.

'shop fitters' , in Australia, are a company that does cabinet making, interior fixing & fitting, carpets, windows, doors, to make the counters, shelves, and all of the shop look like a shop, instead of like an empty cavern. That includes architect-designed signage.

Wow. I'll be interested in your ultimate conclusion... In my business, nothing is typical, and everything is variable, and demands for anything goes in cycles. That's 3D and flat. Covid put the brakes on all the 3D sign fabrication we used to do. We're back to oother fabrication, and a bit of...

Any bevel router bit with a bearing works fine - eg a 45 degree bevel with an edge following bearing - in a hand router.