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Just ungroup everything first, if you want them nested properly. Otherwise it treats what you've grouped as 'set in stone' and won't pull them apart. The bounding box is the plate size they have to be fitted to. (I use the Corel version- a great set of plugins)

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Oh well... I still have a very old version of ER that works just fine for all our needs, 2D to 3D. But the upgrade price is obnoxious, and I have no internet in the workshop, (on purpose),and I detest subscription versions.

I'll suggest dirty heads. Do about 4 head cleans.

September 2003... I must be ancient! ;)

A video might sound useful, but the L26500 is a bit obsolete these days - few people are nurturing them along like me... I still have 20 ink cartridges to use up! There are only about 7 screws each end, to undo - but you'll have to find them! 2 will be sort of inside facing out. And the first...

The service manual is pretty good. I only take off the right end, BUT... be darned careful with the encoder strip or you'll either dent it or wreck the ends where it screws to the bracket. So, if you're uncertain, then remove both ends of the printer, and slowly loosen tension on everything -...

I use Corel in metric, and Enroute in metric, and export an AI (v3) out of CDR, and import to ER, and it's always the right size. However, scaling something up in ER, is what I'd call easy. You just do it. There's a scaling/resizing option in the menu on the left. It looks like a shape with an...

I've used our bandsaw - a bit rough on the edges, but if you're cutting it down, it's probably going through a plotter, so one rough edge is unlikely to be an issue.

Boot up sequence, usually, from memory, involves start, seek right limit, travel head to left side, seek left limit, confirm, go back to right, or left and wait - depends on the orientation set up (rotate X or not). That sounds like 2 things - it's having a fight to get to the left, and it...

Do you need an STL file?

I just feed a bit through, and put clamps on the front edge, for a bit of uniform weight when starting.

Expanding polyurethane glue, we find sticks to acrylic and aluminium pretty well. I've not had one fail in 13 years.

If it is 3.5mm thick, you need to rout through 3.1mm of it. Leave only the 0.3mm skin on the back, and maybe a hair of the core. The vee bottom must be flat, about 2.5mm wide, not a vee point. You can modify a vee cutter, or buy one with a flat nose.

As per above, message or email me your email address, and I'll send it. Regards Ian

Each is a tool, with its own capabilities, and limits. The software is another huge learning curve, especially if you plan to do 3D work with a router. Our router is invaluable, but I've only twice wished I had a Zund.

Unplug the encoder sensor wire plug, and replug it in. Is the new encoder strip identical to the old one? I bought a new one, and found the sensor in the head was entirely different, and I needed to buy a matched pair.. (The new encoder strip was different from the old one...)

Sounds like it's not reading the encoder, maybe?

Check the blade offset, set in the plotter - might be too big, like 1mm instead of 0.25 mm

Ouch! That almost has a static effect look to me... ie if I try and brush letter corro ink on corro plastci, the static makes it jump about in tiny spiders, unless I destatic charge the sheets first. Dry weather is worst.