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That looks like the nozzles are firing when they shouldn't to me. Have you done any work on the printer recently? Does it happen in the same position every time or does it move around?

The head used in that model is used in many different brands and models of printer. Some brands and models handle the head rank differently. So you might have gotten a head that wasn't specifically for a Roland and therefor the head rank isn't compatible. At the end of the day, you can install...

That usually indicates a damaged head unfortunately. The heads are capable of printing a variable dot size. When you print high speed, it only uses the largest dot. When you print standard or high quality, it uses variable dot sizes that are smaller. The mechanism that produces the variable dot...

If you didn't change the o-rings when you changed the dampers, I would try that. The older the machine is, the more likely it is that they aren't sealing properly.

Well that rules that out. My next step would be trying to print from another computer. If that doesn't work, it would indicate a printer issue. If it does work it indicates a computer or other hardware issue.

Check the port settings. Flexi tends to default back to "FILE:" instead of the proper port which in your case will be TCP/IP. I've seen that happen a million times.

Old Mutohs had the USB but they never officially supported it. You can print to the USB through a RIP instead of a windows driver and it works but is not always reliable which is why they never supported it.

Flexi has a feature called, "Color Mapping" that does exactly this and I wouldn't be surprised at all if Onyx has a similar feature. I don't have any experience with Onyx with this particular feature but it might point you in the right direction. RIPs often use the same terms to describe features.

We sell plastic engraving material and some of it is metalized. If you pull more than 1 or 2 sheets out at a time, you get a strong enough shock to make your muscles spasm!

You can use any color value you want as long as it's designated as a spot color and named exactly "CutContour" no space capital Cs. Corel should be able to make a spot color I just don't know how as I'm more of an Illustrator guy.

You can build a file in any software and create a spot color called, "CutContour" and Rasterlink will recognize it as the cut line without having to use the plug-in. You just open it directly in Rasterlink and it will read it.

The size of the machine will be the number after the model. So yours is probably either a 130 or 160. I agree though that if you want the most control over profiles, use a full featured RIP like Onyx or Flexi.

My expert advice is, peanut butter instead of cheese. Works every time. :D

Something people tend to forget on Mutohs is that you need to put it in sleep mode for the auto cleans to work.

For Rasterlink, make sure your profiles match the machine model and ink set perfectly. Even if the size if different it won't work which is dumb I agree.

We sold a customer an expensive flatbed printer once and when they didn't buy ink in the first 6 months, we called them. "You guys sell ink?" I kid you not.

You'd be surprised how many people I've heard say eco solvent inks are safe because of the eco part. Also, while I don't deal a lot with Latex, I agree it is the healthier option.

If you keep your maintenance parts clean and the bottom of the head where the head seals with the cap top clean, it should be able to sit for about a week or 2 and be easily recoverable when you get back. If you want to be 100% sure, run the longstore function which flushes the entire machine...

It's funny seeing people's risk tolerances on here. I'm more in the camp of, better safe than sorry. Sure working in a room with a latex isn't going to affect you much today but doing it for 20 years is going to have some effect and I don't feel like taking that chance especially when putting in...

I've been selling aftermarket wipers for about 2 decades. Not a single issue. PS. Don't give your money to Bezos!